bgambino Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Ok,,,,I finally finished this job (2.5) ...replaced everything with OEM..had valve job done etc Back in car Start: One lifter noise...after a few minutes went away...sounds smooth Idle high (1600) and wont come down...all of a sudden she drops to 750 but is stumbling...3 seconds later back up to 1600 and smooth...5 seconds later to a stumbling 750...and she repeats that cycle over and over. Maybe something with the code...no reader..have to borrow one from guy at work (this problem seemed to disappear for now as I started and stopped engine numerous times due to temp problem below My big problem is temp. Slowly rises to top --goes faster if I rev. I filled coolant per instructions on this forum Used funnel and 12" hose into top rad hose...slowly...got quite a bit in..filled read slowly then exp tank. Car was jack up as high as I could go too So I'm saying to myself..is it possible that I put thermostat in backwards? Off it comes. There was steaming fluid coming out as I was loosening. Nope, t stat in right with spring toward engine...and T stat was wide open!!!! oH...AND i HAD NO HEAT WHATSOEVER Took both hoses off firewall and blew some water out of heater core and it was cold (no ************ I thought) Now I'm worried that somehow the waterpump is not moving water (again it is a OEM new pump.) What gives?? I want to test drive this baby You guys are great...tell me it's something simple...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Did you have the heads resurfaced? Did you buy the HG fomr a dealer or from ebay? What procedure did you use to tighten the head gaskets? Check all your vacume lines. Try topping off the coolant with the engine running and warmed up. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted November 25, 2007 Author Share Posted November 25, 2007 Did you have the heads resurfaced?Did you buy the HG fomr a dealer or from ebay? What procedure did you use to tighten the head gaskets? Check all your vacume lines. Try topping off the coolant with the engine running and warmed up. nipper Yes..surfaced heads and valve job all OEM parts incuding H gaskets Tightened HG per Haynes I think all lines are hooked up (what would this have to do with over heating... & cold water still in heater core?) I did keep topping off...seems like the water is not circulating...but how would that be possible? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 25, 2007 Share Posted November 25, 2007 Yes..surfaced heads and valve joball OEM parts incuding H gaskets Tightened HG per Haynes I think all lines are hooked up (what would this have to do with over heating... & cold water still in heater core?) I did keep topping off...seems like the water is not circulating...but how would that be possible? thanks "Idle high (1600) and wont come down...all of a sudden she drops to 750 but is stumbling...3 seconds later back up to 1600 and smooth...5 seconds later to a stumbling 750...and she repeats that cycle over and over" Thats what vacume lines have to do with anything. Time to take out the compression gauge and see whats going on. ANy bubbles in the coolant? there should be lots of them if its a bad HG again Give us some history on this engine. Did it ever over heat, if so how hot and how often. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Now I'm worried that somehow the waterpump is not moving water One test you could try is removing one of the heater core hoses, then crank the engine (maybe with fuel disabled) and see if you get a nice stream coming out. Yes one nice thing about the OEM thermostat is that its spring is big enough that I don't think it will fit in the thermo housing backwards. Smaller paltry aftermarket thermostats will go in backwards easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm maybe this will help. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted November 26, 2007 Author Share Posted November 26, 2007 thanks nip and porc I don't really know the histor of the HG failure...I bought it this way Porc---I could do that but remember...after running hot several times over the course of 45 minutes...I then took of the heater core hoses and blew out water that was cold..thus water did NOT circulate thru it She's running very nice after just installing engine...it just seems that the water is not circulating for some reason...the new OEM water pump has to be turning so I don't understand what is happening...The bottom rad hose never got hot...the water in the heater core never got hot...but of course the water in the engine did. I started it and ran it for a few minutes several times and each time the gauge would creep to hot so I shut it down. Seemed like t stat was not opening. So I took t stat out and it was wide open...unless it just so happened to open just as I was removing the housing (seems remote)...?this is weird....keep thinking guys, I need you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 clogged radiator? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyhorse001 Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Pull the T-stat & try again. This will rule it out. It'll also let you know if the WP is working. Remember the words of Sherlock Holmes; If you eliminate the impossible, whatever is left, however improbable, MUST be the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaru360 Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 Seems like an air pocket. Or possibly the previous owner dumped in tons of stop leak and plugged up the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted November 26, 2007 Share Posted November 26, 2007 <<I filled coolant per instructions on this forum>> how exactly did you re-fill with coolant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted November 27, 2007 Author Share Posted November 27, 2007 <<I filled coolant per instructions on this forum>> how exactly did you re-fill with coolant? I did a search and Setright wrote: Filling Close up the bottom end of the cooling system, ie. thermostat and lower hose. If possible, perform the next phase on a slight incline, car pointing upward. Get a funnel with about 10 inches of half-inch diameter hose on the end of it and slide this down the upper hose in toward the engine block. I do this because bending the upper rad hose causes it to collapse and that makes pouring coolant into it impossible. Pour your preferred coolant directly into the engine block. Pouring slowly, and pausing along the way will help keep air from being trapped inside the block. It should swallow at about two litres before it starts to rise and threaten to come out of the hose. At that point, attach the upper hose to the rad and continue to fill slowly through the rad cap hole. Once it seems full, start the engine, let it run for twenty seconds and shut it off again. This will dislodge the few air pockets that are unavoidable and the fluid level in the radiator should drop a little after the burp, top it off. Start the engine again, and let it run until the radiator fan starts running, be patient! When then fan starts running, top off the level in the rad and install the radiator cap - and bleed screw if there is one. During the warm up, a small amount of coolant will spill over the rad filler neck, have a cloth to absorb it. Take the car for a shortish run, just a few miles to get it fully warmed up, and park it on level ground. Check hoses for leaks of course, and let it cool. This will take a number of hours, overnight is good. In the morning, note the level in the expansion tank, it will probably be a little lower than FULL. Fill to the FULL mark, and you're all set. Obviously, you should check the level in the expansion tank for a few days afterward, but there shouldn't be any problems. Resist the temptation to open the rad cap, this will only interfere ******* Have you got any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgambino Posted December 1, 2007 Author Share Posted December 1, 2007 OK...I got water circulating and heat and all is fine I was guessing that maybe there was a big air bubble near the thermostat and think that is what it was...not allowing t stat to open. Here's what I did: Disconnected both hoses to heater core at firewall disconnected upper rad hose at radiator rad cap off bleeder cap loose I put a funnel into the right (driver side) heater core hose and loosened the t stat cover a little Poured some fluid into hose till started to drip out..tightened t stat cover Slowly filled radiator Went back to filling hose at heater core Fluid started coming out of other heater core hose so I lifted it higher Finally fluid came out upper rad hose Hooked up rad hose Hooked up 2 heater core hoses Started with rad cap off and let run Worked perfectly...t-stat finally opened and added a little more fluid to radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fubar Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 I've gotten into the habit drilling a small hole in my t-stats when I replace them allowing a very small flow at all times. This seems to help in removing any air from the system. I do this on any car I change the t-stat on,alt.hough some cars have a jiggle valve. former SOOB owner...don't hate me:Flame: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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