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Ej22 swap no spark


Tosh
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ok so first of all, I'm back. Long story short I was down in utah staying with some faimly down there for 4 moths or so but i'm back home in washington now and I need to get my Ej22 swaped 87 wagon running for work.

 

 

My main problem is I've got no spark. Now the bad part is my car is at a friends house 30 minutes away from me so its gonna be a pain to get work done on it.

 

I know I need to test for power at the coil. How do I do this ? which wires should have power etc etc?

 

if I DON'T have power what should I do to get it power?

 

and if I do whats the next thing to check for a no spark issue?

 

 

also if any of the washington guys would like to make say $100 this weekend getting my wagon to run I'd be more then willing to throw the money at it if you can help me get it running.

 

Thanks again guys.

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first question to ask, is if the ECU is working properly. and the best way to tell this, is if it turns the fuel pump on for a moment when you turn the ignition on.

 

I was convinced all summer (not this past summer...but the year before) that my car just didn't have spark. but I had 'hotwired' the fuel pump on (ECU was not controlling it), so the only symptom I noticed was that it didn't have spark. but the problem was much deeper than that.

 

 

 

if your ECU is not turning on the fuel pump relay, and it is wired correctly, than it's not getting power and ground everywhere that it should. go through the harness, wire by wire, and double check all of these wires.

 

 

then, if the ECU is powering up correctly, it will turn on the fuel pump. if you're getting this far, and it isn't starting, it's a sensor (or wiring to a sensor) problem. good news is that the ECU can tell you what's wrong with it. connect the read mode jumpers, and read any CEL codes it might have.

 

 

 

as for checking for power at the coil. there are 3 wires at the coil, the middle (Yellow) one should get 12v power anytime the ignition is on.

 

 

also, what was the engine donor? helps to know exactly what system we're dealing with

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ECU powers up fine (fuel pump comes on and off when I flip the toggle switch) the ecu doesn't give me any codes. I believe I correctly hotwired the yellow wire to the alt power wire with little effect. Could miss wiring of the "start" for the ej22 harness ignition cause the coil not to get the single to spark ?

 

I'm not 100% sure but I think I remember the engine coming from a 92 auto wagon.

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Could miss wiring of the "start" for the ej22 harness ignition cause the coil not to get the single to spark ?

 

:confused:

 

 

if you're talking about the wire that gives the ECU 12v+ while cranking, then no. that just changes the enrichment settings to allow it to start easier...the car will still start without it (it'll just crank a lot in colder weather).

 

 

ok, but it's OBD I legacy wiring....yes?

 

 

if the ECU is coming on, and there are no codes (are you sure? I find it hard to believe it's not running and has nothing to say), it's probably something simple. Double check all the plugs (the ones from the bulkhead harness to the engine harness, the SMJ, the ignitor, cam/crank angle sensors, etc.). When I do my OBD I harnesses, I splice the coil into the same power source as the ECU etc. within the harness. I don't know if cutting right to the alt wire will cause problems or not.

 

 

then start checking for power everywhere there should be (ign coil, igniter, injectors, etc.).

 

 

also might want to pull a fuel rail, and crank it over a bit, to see if the injectors are firing.

 

 

 

I'm thinking it's either something just doesn't have power (igniter or coil, although I believe the igniter would throw a code), or, you're crank/cam sensors aren't working/plugged in, so it's not even trying to run.

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ok sweet I'm going down to take a look/do work tomorrow so I'll report back then. I'm PRETTY sure I did plug everything in.

 

 

Yes its obd 1 i'm sure of that. the car started up and ran just fine a week before I pulled the motor out so i doubt there is a problem with the injectors that kinda thing. I hope.

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My crank angle sensor wasnt plugged in one time, it took me almost 2 hours to track that down.....of course my dad came right out and pointed to it in 10 seconds.

 

when i stripped down my harness i collected all the power wires, soldered them together, and connected it to the ign, switch on the steering column. used a tester to find the wire that was on while the key was in acc, AND On positions. then i wired the "always hot" wire to the battery with a fuse. next, i collected ALL the gorunds and soldered them together and grounded it to the chassis. worked great for me.

 

Oh, i left the fuel pump relay and the ign relay from the legacy harness,

and grounded it, so the ecu thinks its sending a signal to the fuel pump.

 

 

 

~Josh~

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  • 2 weeks later...
so after realizing that a fixable problem was not hearing the fuel pump I got that seemingly working just fine. NOW i AM getting an ECU code of 30. anyone know where I can find a code list? I only found OBDII in the USRM

 

AFAIK, trouble codes never have a zero in them.....so you may want to check again.

 

here's decent write-up from legacy central....I found a better one a while back, but can't find it now.

http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

 

 

 

EDIT: Found it!

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

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so with my engine not being able to start i would

 

Crank the engine (without the connectors plugged in)

connect them

turn key to the (on position)

Read code flashes? correct?

 

 

when I just plug them in and turn the key to ON I get 3 of the slower blinks and then my fuel pump primes 3 blinks prime 3 blinks and so on till I turn it off.

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read the article. connect them with the car completely off, then turn it on without cranking.

 

also, if you're getting 3 slow blinks. I think that means you've got the wrong connectors connected. that's what the D-check mode does. the basic check mode connectors are the black, single-pin ones.

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  • 7 years later...

ok check!

 

RATS, I plugged the black connectors in and it flashed a different code then 30. BUT after that It went right back to the 30 blink and now I can't get it to come back.

 

any ideas?

hey tosh what color is the wire for the check engine light? 

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