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1984 subaru trouble code 11 help!


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15 replies to this topic

#1 gmcfan

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Posted 15 December 2003 - 06:17 PM

Hi! I have been having trouble with my 84 subaru, it wont idle down, i have checked for vaccum leaks, found none, everything seems to be in order. But, I read in an article on this site, that the computer can blink trouble codes to you through the computer. I looked, and I got a code 11. Ignition Pulse System. I did not have any of the connectors hooked together, because I am not sure which they are. There are like 10 connectors that dont go to anything. I did however, find a connector by tracing it back to the computer, and plugged it into a corrisponding plug, both are green. Nothing happened with the key on, it just kept blinking code 11. I know there are other diagnostic plugs, but what color are they? what is the ignition pulse system, and what would cause it to malfunction. I have a hard time fixing something when I dont even know what the hell it is. Any help with be appreciated.

#2 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 December 2003 - 08:33 PM

Code 11 acording to my book is a model designation for a 5 speed manual trans, 2WD, non california car..... not a trouble code. In fact all codes starting with the number 1 or the number 7 are model designations apparently. A lot of the code listings I have seen online don't have the model codes, and I'm not sure why. I do belive that your problem is the carburetor, and not any of the sensors or the computer system.

Do you have the carter weber single barrel or the hitachi carb? The carter is widely regarded as a real peice of junk - the Hitachi actually isn't bad, but does need rebuilding after 100k miles or so... best bet if you have a hitachi is to install a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb, and toss the Hitachi cmopletely.

GD

#3 gmcfan

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 01:15 AM

I have the carter-weber.:mad: I wish I had the 32/36. I would even take the hitachi, although I hear they have a mess of vaccum connections.

#4 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 02:29 AM

I have a ea81T wagon and am also getting code 11, so Is Galen! And my car too won't idle down. It did not have this problem when I bought it! Something is screwy... I have a 5spd D/r in it. And it won't idle below 1000rpms

#5 gmcfan

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 03:45 AM

yeah, mine won't idle below 1000 either. It stays about 1050 or around there. I did notice though, if I physically push on the throttle arm on the carb, the engine will slow down to about 700 RPM, if I push too much, it dies. It will stay at a certain RPM, then when I push on the gas, it goes back up to 1000+. I checked the slack in the throttle cable, that's not the problem. Could something be jamming the throttle? could the gasket be protruding and stopping the throttle valve from closing? or could the throttle return spring be worn out and not have enough pressure to close the throttle enough. Although, I had to push on the throttle with a little pressure, so I think it is more likely and obstruction. Is there any adjustments on the carter-weber to change Idle? all there is is the choke adjustment screw to slow down the engine gradually as it warms up. When I first got the car, it would not idle below 2300 RPM! I even let it warm up, and it stayed the same, so I adjusted the screw, and got it down to where it is now. If I go lower, the car dies after it warms up, not enough throttle, or something. This thing has me scratching my head. I had less problems with my '62 GMC!

#6 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 06:37 AM

Man - the carter weber is an under-powered peice of junk - swap over to the Hitachi and it's manifold - I'm sure if you post in the marketplace someone has one lying around..... then later you will have the ability to go with the DGEV, and you will scratch no longer.

Try some carb cleaner on that linkage, and the throttle plate - may be sticky or something.

GD

#7 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 06:41 AM

And Matt - what are you doing confusing this poor man? YOU have an MPFI turbo motor - COMPLETELY different - code 11 for you is supposedly a "no reference pulse" from the ignition system. Move along son, your holding up the damn line.....

Pay no attention to RallyRoo upstairs ^ he be smokin his shirt or something :confused:

GD

#8 SuperRallyRoo

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 04:44 PM

When I looked the code up for my car it meant the same damn thing.

#9 Goatboy

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 05:16 PM

Too bad you are so far away from me GMCFAN. I could look at it for you. Mine was doing the same thing. I have the Hitachi carb though. I can get my idle down to about 200 now and still runs smooth-ish. Doesn't die though. I have mine set to about 700-800 rpm. To fix mine I lubed the cable good and also the pivot points under the dash for the pedal. Adjusted the cable position and the fast idle cam screw on the carb and made sure the choke butterfly valve was opperating freely.

--GoatBoy--

#10 rallyruss

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 05:33 PM

No need for harsh words GD lets just help to figure this out.

first the code 11 is of no concern it basicaly states the car lay out.

next look by the strut tower for a group of relays. next to those is a vacume sol. 2 wires I think and two vac lines. this is the idle up sol. it should pass vacume when 12v is applied and not flow when power is not present. I would start here and see what you find.

#11 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 16 December 2003 - 05:39 PM

I wasn't being harsh - just jesting with Matt a bit. He IS confusing the situation by bringing in his silly MPFI turbo to a discussion about carbed non turbo engines with entirely different computer systems....

Are you refering to the AC idle up? It's an 84, and thus may very well not have AC..... do the carter webers have an idle up even if there's no AC? Wish I knew more about the carter weber so I could help with this one, but I still say switch to the hitachi.....

GD

#12 gmcfan

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Posted 17 December 2003 - 10:10 PM

Non AC, looked by the strut tower, there are two solinoids, both plugged in, but not sure if they work. THere is also a vaccum canister, I assume its a resevoir, there is another solinoid thing that is attached to a bracket, and looks like it has a rod or something going into the heater, so I assume it has something to do with the heater controls. I didnt see any relays, but they may be hidden under some stuff.

I'll test those solinoids tomorrow.

#13 gmcfan

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 11:23 AM

I looked on the carb, after taking the air cleaner off, and there is some kind of vaccum motor hooked up in conjunction with the electric choke. I have no idea what it does. the vaccum hose for it is connected to a port on the carb, and is getting vaccum. I unhooked it with the engine running, and plugged the hose, no change in engine speed, the car was warmed up by the way. I havent checked those solinoids yet, because I honestly don't know how the hell to test them. This system could be leaking in a hundred places. A lot of the vaccum hoses are dried up and hard, and could be loose, so I think I am just going to have to change all the hoses, and see what happens.

But even though this is a problem for me, I still want to know what the hell the ECS means! It comes on earlier and earlier when the car is warming up, so my guess is it is indicating a failing sensor or something, but I cant tell. I dont know where the diagnostic plugs under the dash are, or what color they are, so I can read the codes.

I suppose I can't just jerk the computer out, and the car will still run right. I'm guessing that everything is routed through it, including the radio!;)

This is getting to be interesting. I like the car, and want to make it a "street machine" so I can race the other "ricers" 2 FAST 2 FURIOUS STYLE!

Well, maybe not. I am not the racing type. But, I DO like fast cars, and I think this one has some potential.

#14 Qman

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 11:36 AM

Start your car and make sure it is warmed up. After the choke has released go pull back on the gas pedal. Thes get sticky. Odd as it sounds alot of times all that needs to be done is to lube the pivot point. (BTW, this could be Matt's problem as well) The fact that you can force the idle down indicates that something is sticking.

Have you tried to adjust the idle? It is very difficult on the C-W. You need a small allen wrench and alot of patience.

#15 carfreak85

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 01:24 PM

I dont mean to complicate the situation any more, but as Matt said, my car has code 11 as well. the problem with mine is that it makes a terrible sound and after if warms up it wants to die anytime you touch the gas and if you do that too much it doesnt even want to idle.

#16 Nug

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 03:33 PM

The bore in the carb that accomodates the throttle shaft...is it worn to the point where you can move the throttle shaft up and down, back and forth? If so, it has vacuum leaks around the shaft and the butterfly isn't ever going to align correctly. If this is your problem, the carb is junk, no amount of rebuilding or adjusting will fix it completely. The throttle shaft bore can be rebushed, but this type of effort is reserved for Italian carbs ie weber IDA's and Dellortos.




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