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Posted 11 January 2008 - 03:52 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:08 PM
That would explain the tires screaching, viabration through the entire car, and noise.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:21 PM
You could remove the rear portion of the driveshaft
to prove this.
Tires all match?
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:49 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:51 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:53 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 04:58 PM
186k miles trans. may not be worth it. Hard to say.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:00 PM
a transmission gear oil change is not a bad idea. fluid changes help the automatics with torque bind more than the manuals, but i would do one right away, it's too easy not too. some people try "concoctions" like Lucas or other additives with it, you can do a search on the board for "torque bind" and find out all sorts of information. keep in mind you'll want to read the manual transmission related stuff as the auto's and manuals have completely different failure modes and systems...just the symptoms are similar.
some questions: have you or do you ever feel it binding around turns? that should be noticeable. what's the history here? how long has it been doing this and has it gotten worse?
i don't think this is it but ball joints can also cause nasty vibrations around turns, if it was one of those or the cv i would expect it to vary based on speed, turn radius, etc...at least in the beginning.
CV's have multiple failure modes, not just clicking. a bad DOJ (even with the boot in tact with no clicking) can cause serious vibrations and no noise. though i think they will usually vibrate while driving straight too.....maybe someone else can answer if they'll only vibrate around turns.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:02 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:05 PM
the rear portion of the drive shaft will prove it.
(eight bolts and nuts)
You could drive it like this.
Harry's has to have a tranny for you?
Callem for a price.
Or use http//:www.car-part.com
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:10 PM
Just remove the exhaust Y-pipe and converters.
Rear drive shaft.
Support trans. Remove transmission cross member.
Remove transmission tail houseing. (Not transfer case houseing.)
Pull out viscous coupler.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:15 PM
i am very doubtful that your rear axles are causing this, though i'm not saying it's impossible. i never replace rear CV half shafts and i've never had them break, cause noise or vibrations. i've put 100,000+ miles on broken boot rear axles. my current ride has about 40,000 miles and both rear axles have torn boots...though i have new axles ready to go since the crushed coal they use on the roads in the mountains really screws with cv joints.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:16 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:22 PM
Jack up the front of the car, transmission in N. You should be able to turn both wheels the same direction. There will be resistance, but if there is so much that you can't turn them, then the coupler is locked up.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:27 PM
if im backing up making a turn and the noise comes on....i have to like floor it to move the slightest inch.
Now that deffinetly sounds like a locked up viscouse coupler.
Pre 2000 viscous couplers were not a big problem. Have replaced more 2000 and newer than older ones.
But yes, enough time and miles will wear anything out.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:30 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 05:32 PM
If you try WA's test
you will need two people to turn both wheels.
Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:34 PM
WOW! crucial information. that's more important than anything else you said and is why i asked in my first post:
.if im backing up making a turn and the noise comes on....i have to like floor it to move the slightest inch.
it is likely something happened in the past to bring this on - mismatching tires, tires not being rotated, snows on the front, being towed improperly, fluid not changed or run low - etc.
some questions: have you or do you ever feel it binding around turns?
Posted 11 January 2008 - 06:54 PM
Posted 11 January 2008 - 09:21 PM
Another thing to keep in mind on a 186k mile tranny, that may have had a hard life, infrequent fluid changes........................torque bind is going to take a toll on the rest of the breaings in the trans.
Just saying, how much $ do you want to invest in this tranny.
Putting a used coupler in is always an option. Specialy if you are doing the work yourself. As I said the early model couplers have had a lower failure rate than the late model units.
Posted 12 January 2008 - 06:31 AM
yikes, forgot that!
The viscous coupler is a sealed unit.
Posted 12 January 2008 - 10:55 AM
As a follow up on WA's test where the front wheels were
lifted and both made to turn.....(see post #14)
IF the vicious coupling were locked.
If one rear wheel was lifted
Tranny not in Neutral.
The wheel should not turn freely.
Biscuit or no...
Posted 12 January 2008 - 11:31 AM
Or am i missing something
and that was porcupines biscuit, so you cant have it
Posted 12 January 2008 - 11:35 AM
I said NOT in neutral, meaning in gear.
no biscuit for you either
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