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Rear wheel Bearings..


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47 replies to this topic

#26 grossgary

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 01:42 PM

in previous searches i found quotes from other people that paid to have it done including some dealer prices. VERY high.

as for the impact on that long bolt - maybe that will work. i've had a lot shear EJ hubs seem to rust bad, some late 90's EJ stuff is as bad as 80's EA stuff. not sure why that is. ABS bolts and that long bolt will just shear off they're so bad.

#27 aircraft engineer

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 01:47 PM

oh well... figured it was just "too simple" a solution. :D

#28 grossgary

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 02:02 PM

oh well... figured it was just "too simple" a solution. :D

sorry, i didn't mean it that way. thanks for correcting it, i edited my post. that is a great option to have. it'll have far more chance of working than shearing it off by hand with a socket wrench. it would depend on the situation, if the bolt comes out at all...then i'd rather work it back and forth by hand some than muscle it. otherwise i'd rather use the impact than brute force.

#29 aircraft engineer

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 02:16 PM

20V electric impact wrench for when I don't have air available. :drunk: Goes with the 20V angle grinder that was on the Schucks/Kraeger/Checker day before Xmas sale for "$29.99* for the set including a plastic carry/storage box"




"*after rebate"

actually not a bad unit - 1/2 drive and the 20V will run it a bit - never actually used it yet - just been working close to the "air" :)

#30 hohieu

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 05:36 PM

Because early Foresters had unusually high failure rates due in large part to the original caged ball bearings, which were subsequently updated with tapered roller bearings, a revised low force installation procedure with OEM Kent Moore tools (similar to the Hub Tamer) was also recommended in order to decrease the potential for deforming the new bearing. At the aforementioned labor rates, you would effectively pay for your investment with one bearing replacement. It makes sense to purchase the Hub Tamer, especially if you don't already have the other tools you'll need for the job (e.g., slide hammer, hub puller, bearing separator)

As for the long pinch bolt, mine was corrosion welded into the bushing collars, and man, I hit it with everything I had over the course of several days: PB Blaster, impact gun, punch and 3-lb hammer, torch, impact hammer.....

In the end, I had to cut off the head of the bolt with a grinder fitted with a cutting wheel. Then I separated the bushing from the rear lateral link with a two-jaw puller, cut that end of the bolt off, separated the bushing from the front lateral link with the puller, and finally tapped what was left of the bolt out of the knuckle. It was a real bear, and by far, the most time consuming part of the job.

Before ordering parts for the job, it's a good idea to check and see if you can remove that pinch bolt. If you find that you'll need to cut the bolt off as I did, you'll need to add some parts to your list. I had to buy the parts from the local dealer:

bolt - $27.25
bushings - 2 x 27.77

#31 aircraft engineer

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 05:58 PM

I guess I should be GLAD I don't live in "road salt land" any more. The ones I pulled were "undo the nut and pull out the bolt" easy. The "trailing arm link bolt" was a real problem, though. (not rusted, just tight and a definite lack of access to the nut)

#32 Durania

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 10:25 PM

Reading all this made me realize that local shops have paid for their presses many times over. Straight profit.

#33 nipper

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 10:26 PM

Reading all this made me realize that local shops have paid for their presses many times over. Straight profit.


Well in all fairness to the shops, there is rent, saleries, insurance and utilities to name a few daily costs.

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#34 hohieu

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 10:57 AM

right ... and if they have to spend a couple hours trying to remove a seized component in order to do the job, they really can't charge a customer much more than book value on labor.

#35 aircraft engineer

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 11:13 AM

that depends - IF they know it's not coming out easily, a call to the customer explaining that there might be some extra charge depending on how it goes because of "issues" would be "prudent".

Book rates were developed with a new test car in a factory condition. I know - I used to develop some when I was with Ford . Our object was to try to get the hours down to whatever was "reasonable" for WARRANTY SERVICE. :-\ Quality was always "JOB 1" <smirk>

#36 hohieu

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Posted 09 April 2008 - 06:17 PM

Agreed, but it's hard to charge much more than a couple of hours for, say, a half shaft replacement, regardless of much time you're spending dismantling seized components.

I was looking at a Toyota on the rack when I brought in my car to have new tires mounted and for the annual state inspection. The longer CV half shaft was seized at the center bearing (no such thing on a Subie), and my mechanic did just as you said, he called the owner to let him know what it would take.

Most customers, however, aren't going to be so understanding, especially when they start to compare charges against with what other shops are charging for a typical job. Hence, it's also important to preserve your reputation. My mechanic is a decent guy so this is important to him.

But now this thread has now really gone off topic...oops.

#37 grossgary

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 12:41 PM

Question: i removed the hub and let the machine shop do the bearings. are rear bearings (1996 Legacy) sealed bearings or do they require greasing to install? talked to a guy at the shop and he said he thought subaru's were sealed and didn't require any grease? but he's not the main guy and said if they need grease they'll grease them.

not sure what to make of that, but I hope they do it right!?

Start now with weekly applications of PB Blaster and the bolts might come out.

this worked for me, i had good luck yesterday. sprayed it every few days, the entire length of that long bolt, the head, and the nut. yesterday i heated the nut on the end of that long bolt and off it came. i went slow and took breaks so as not to heat and shear the bolt. the ABS sensor took the longest to remove i think, was seriously rusted and stuck but eventually came out.

#38 grossgary

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 12:45 PM

From Subaru's Endwrench site:
"The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."

I ordered a new wheel bearing from one of the online places - so would they have sent me this "new bearing" or something else?

Unfortunately i ordered a "Wheel Bearing Kit" part # 28016AA030
so i can't tell which bearing that is?

#39 NorthWet

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 01:25 PM

The pre-greased-or-not would be good (and important) to know. The SVX developed a reputation for going through rear wheel bearings, and part of that turns out to be that the Genuine Subaru bearings came greased, BUT the grease was just for storage preservation and needed to be completely removed and replaced with proper grease for actual road use.

BTW, I had to partially disassemble an SVX front hub (similar to Legacy, et al) after shearing a lug stud. I have the HF 12-ton press, and having the press is not as important as having the proper jigs to support the hub on the press. Because of all of the odd protuberances on the hub, I couldn't just rest the hub on the press plates and do the job. I had to micky-mouse support pieces by sticking random hunks of iron/steel on the press plates, while trying to position the socket that I was using as the pressing piece. If I had bought the 2 Subaru tools (or fabricated something close) the job would have taken 30-60 minutes instead of 2 calendar days. But I also would not have experienced the thrill of having 2 hitch receiver tubes with balls falling onto my shins and feet.

Presses are good. Having the right accesories is even better.

#40 aircraft engineer

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 01:34 PM

Rear ROLLER bearings are supposedly greased at the manufacturer. I'll re-grease everything anyway so I don't care (that way I KNOW there's enough hi-temp grease in there). Easy enuf to tell - just pull an inner race out of one side. Obvious at that point (and the rollers just slide out - the ball races have to be gently pried out with a screwdriver)

Time to do 2 rears (typical rear bearing howl but seems to be coming from both sides - might be different when I have it torn down and can try turning them by hand) and a new front driver's axle on the green Imp. Maybe I can find a couple in the JY :) or change to discs

#41 nipper

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 02:48 PM

Rear ROLLER bearings are supposedly greased at the manufacturer. I'll re-grease everything anyway so I don't care (that way I KNOW there's enough hi-temp grease in there). Easy enuf to tell - just pull an inner race out of one side. Obvious at that point (and the rollers just slide out - the ball races have to be gently pried out with a screwdriver)

Time to do 2 rears (typical rear bearing howl but seems to be coming from both sides - might be different when I have it torn down and can try turning them by hand) and a new front driver's axle on the green Imp. Maybe I can find a couple in the JY :) or change to discs


http://endwrench.com...placingInfo.pdf

"Always
insure that the new bearing is properly
packed with suitable wheel bearing
grease. The grease that the bearing is

shipped with is not sufficient."

nipper


#42 porcupine73

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 03:31 PM

Hm...in this article http://endwrench.com...heelBearing.pdf it says (I think this is talking about the roller bearings that replaced the ball bearing style for Impreza and Forester though).

"The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."

#43 nipper

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 03:43 PM

Hm...in this article http://endwrench.com...heelBearing.pdf it says (I think this is talking about the roller bearings that replaced the ball bearing style for Impreza and Forester though).

"The new genuine Subaru rear wheel bearings are not to be packed with grease of any kind. The bearing is ready to install out of the box."


That doesnt make any sense at all. Are they assuming the old grease will do the job? What if the old bearing imploded and you had to remove all of it.

Maybe the grease that is supplied to install the bearing is enough grease?

Any subaru service techs out there want to quantify this for us?

nipper

#44 grossgary

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 04:52 PM

I emailed the Subaru dealer i bought the bearings from, here was their reply:

"The sealed units started in 2005 models
we made the kit for our own use
subaru does not make a "kit" actually
ALSO
our technicians say no need to grease them thanx"

#45 johnceggleston

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 06:16 PM

I emailed the Subaru dealer i bought the bearings from, here was their reply:

"The sealed units started in 2005 models
we made the kit for our own use
subaru does not make a "kit" actually
ALSO
our technicians say no need to grease them thanx"


2 questions,
which dealer did you deal with? (it sound like they know what they are talking about.)

is the wheel bearing for the '05 the same for 95 - 99? or did they change the design of all leggy wheel bearings starting in 05 even though there are different ones.

#46 nipper

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 06:19 PM

Yes did the 2005 Kit supercede all the previous bearings up to 1995?


nipper

#47 grossgary

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 07:26 PM

which dealer did you deal with?

subarupartsforyou.com

is the wheel bearing for the '05 the same for 95 - 99?

i was equally confused by that statement as well. did they mean they are superceded or not?

wow, as many rear bearing failures as there are i thought this was a no-brainer question.

#48 porcupine73

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 08:25 AM

Well this is a dilly of a pickle Posted Image




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