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H6 Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Removal


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20 replies to this topic

#1 dbullen

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 06:42 AM

- Wondering if anyone knows how to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt on the H6 engine (2003 Outback), the service manual says to use a special tool, ( I assume this is something I have to buy from subaru?) or is there another method I can use? I've done a number of searches and found a lot of info on how to remove the bolt on a 2.2 and 2.5, but couldn't find anything on the H6.

#2 grossgary

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 08:26 AM

the H6 probably won't differ by much. the trick to removing the crank pulley is getting the engine to stay put while backing the pulley out. that's all. even the EJ22's and Ej25's have a "special tool" but few use it because it's not necessary. do you know of the H6 is any different than any other subaru engine with regard to the crank pulley? all other subaru motors are the same essentially...each time a new motor came out, the same methods work...EJ22, EJ22, EG33.....
here's tpyical ways of removing it on other vehicles and the H6 shouldn't be any different:

manual: put the car in gear with the ebrake on and back the bolt off.

automatic: there should be a plug to access the flexplate...has to be to get the flexplate bolts out. the flexplate will have holes in it that you can stick a socket extension in to keep the engine from turning over. remove bolt.

and then the bump-the-starter-trick requires no tools or work at all, but if you're having problems doing this then that's probably not a good option for you.

#3 CNY_Dave

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 10:39 AM

- Wondering if anyone knows how to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt on the H6 engine (2003 Outback), the service manual says to use a special tool, ( I assume this is something I have to buy from subaru?) or is there another method I can use? I've done a number of searches and found a lot of info on how to remove the bolt on a 2.2 and 2.5, but couldn't find anything on the H6.


As an H6 owner, curious as to the repair and what mileage its occurring at-

Dave

#4 dbullen

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 10:44 AM

As an H6 owner, curious as to the repair and what mileage its occurring at-

Dave


Timing chain tensionsers need to be replaced, 128,000 miles. (thats what the dealer believes the noise is) I just bought the car and in looking at service records i believe the noise started around 120K.

#5 Skip

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 11:05 AM

Please, I'm with Dave, keep us updated.

There are not a lot of us H6 guys here on the board.

Sure looks tight in there,
even getting the fans and
the rad out looks "hairy"
Posted Image

#6 Durania

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 12:42 PM

Have fun with that as the timing chain cover has 59 bolts.

#7 WAWalker

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 12:47 PM

Skip, you need a new serpentine belt.:)

Timing chain tensioner noise has be a bit of a problem on the H-6. Especially on engines that don't get frequent oil changes.

#8 Skip

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 01:00 PM

Thanks Wayd, I WILL check that today.

The engine was on high idle when the pict was taken
but I trust your judgement. (75 kmi.)

10/4 on the oil change interval, thanks.

#9 porcupine73

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 02:25 PM

Hm the H6 crank pulley looks interesting. Other soobs don't have that aluminum looking metal cap on the pulley. Nice pic too, I like that montage/picture-on-picture look!

#10 Skip

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 02:47 PM

Thanks Porc, you have taught us well that

a pict is sometimes worth a kiloword.


Agreed on the crank pulley, looks like I may get up close
and personal when I change the serp. belt.

I know if you were I
you'd take pictures of the proceedure.

Hope dbullen does if he tackles the project.

#11 WAWalker

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Posted 30 January 2008 - 03:16 PM

Here is what Subaru has to say about the tensioner noise.

Engine - Noise From Timing Cover Area

SOURCE: Subaru Tech Tips
TITLE: Engine Noise - All H6 Vehicles
APPLIES TO: All 6 cylinder vehicles except SVX
SERVICE TIP:
If you encounter an H6 engine with a noise coming from the front timing chain area and suspect it might be caused by the timing chain tensioner, please follow the instructions below. SOA has tried this procedure and found it to be an effective fix.
Repair Procedure:
1) Start the Engine
2) Raise engine RPM's under cold condition, up to 5000rpm 3 to 4 times.
3) Confirm whether the noise is eliminated.
4) If the noise still exists, repeat above procedure again.

If you cannot eliminate the noise with above procedure, replace Chain Tensioner.

Looking at the FSM, the crank pulley is really no different than any of the EJ pulleys, just has that aerodynamic cover over the bolt.

#12 dbullen

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 08:44 AM

Here is what Subaru has to say about the tensioner noise.

Engine - Noise From Timing Cover Area

SOURCE: Subaru Tech Tips
TITLE: Engine Noise - All H6 Vehicles
APPLIES TO: All 6 cylinder vehicles except SVX
SERVICE TIP:
If you encounter an H6 engine with a noise coming from the front timing chain area and suspect it might be caused by the timing chain tensioner, please follow the instructions below. SOA has tried this procedure and found it to be an effective fix.
Repair Procedure:
1) Start the Engine
2) Raise engine RPM's under cold condition, up to 5000rpm 3 to 4 times.
3) Confirm whether the noise is eliminated.
4) If the noise still exists, repeat above procedure again.

If you cannot eliminate the noise with above procedure, replace Chain Tensioner.

Looking at the FSM, the crank pulley is really no different than any of the EJ pulleys, just has that aerodynamic cover over the bolt.



I have read that procedure as well (www.alldatadiy.com), tried it a few times without success so I am going ahead and changing the chain tensioners. My mechanic is going to tackle it tonight and I have to work, so I won't be able to get an pics, but I should be able to provide some info on how he (hopefully) gets the Crank Pulley bolt off.

I posted the same question on another board and this is the response i got:

"You can stop the engine from rotating by locking the flywheel ring gear with
a 10mm Allen Key.
IIRC,the torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 127 Nm."

Does this sound like it would work?

#13 grossgary

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 09:04 AM

"You can stop the engine from rotating by locking the flywheel ring gear with
a 10mm Allen Key.
IIRC,the torque for the crankshaft pulley bolt is 127 Nm."

Does this sound like it would work?

yes it's essentially what i was referring to in my first post:

automatic: there should be a plug to access the flexplate...has to be to get the flexplate bolts out. the flexplate will have holes in it that you can stick a socket extension in to keep the engine from turning over.

point being it's like any other engine, the manuals have the same access hole in the bell housing. i would try it in gear with brakes on first though.

#14 Skip

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 10:43 AM

Gary, this is an H6, I don't think they came with
a manual tranny.

I like the old cotton rope in the spark plug hole
but with where theses plugs are, the clearance and stuff,
the flexplate lock may be
better.


Mr. Dbullen sir, 127 N M =93 ft lb

that sounds low to me.

Other EJ series engines use 125 ft lb or ~ 175 N M

This may have changed for the H6, you might want
to double check
as a crank pulley is a bad thing to come loose.

Many many posts on it.

#15 WAWalker

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 12:40 PM

Looking at the H-6 that I just pulled into the shop...................................It would be much easier to use a spanner wrench on the front crank pulley rather than accessing the torque converter through the plug on the bell housing, IMO.

#16 grossgary

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 02:53 PM

Gary, this is an H6, I don't think they came with
a manual tranny.

i didn't know that, just replying to the flywheel comment. then that post still stands, just flexplate instead of flywheel.

ah, the TC is that hard to get too huh? even with a long socket extension?

#17 Skip

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 03:23 PM

Gary, I think I know from where Wayd is speaking

To true to true
Posted Image

It's down there somewhere.

#18 WAWalker

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 03:26 PM

It's actually on the other side.

I looked on that side first, since that is were it has always been.:)

#19 Skip

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 03:41 PM

'ell fire Wayd, that side is even worse!!
Posted Image

#20 WAWalker

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 03:43 PM

:lol:

Replacing the valve cover gaskets on one of these things for the first time isn't turning out to be real fun either.:)

#21 dbullen

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Posted 04 February 2008 - 04:33 PM

Gary, this is an H6, I don't think they came with
a manual tranny.

I like the old cotton rope in the spark plug hole
but with where theses plugs are, the clearance and stuff,
the flexplate lock may be
better.


Mr. Dbullen sir, 127 N M =93 ft lb

that sounds low to me.

Other EJ series engines use 125 ft lb or ~ 175 N M

This may have changed for the H6, you might want
to double check
as a crank pulley is a bad thing to come loose.

Many many posts on it.


You are correct according to factory service manual it needs to be tightened to 178 Nm or 131 ft lb




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