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Clutch or what?


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10 replies to this topic

#1 mlambie

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 08:25 PM

Question for the experts. My son has a 1992 Loyale 2WD with a 147,000 miles. I tried adjustments but was unable to get the clutch to engage. The clutch made a slipping sound so I assumed the clutch was a goner even though the mileage seemed a little too soon based on what I have read on this site. What is also peculiar is that I had driven this car only a month or so previous and got no indication of a clutch close to end of life, even though the clutch pedal probably could use some adjustment. Well, I got to the clutch and it's not down to the rivets even though it's close and the pressure plate does not look wore out either. What may be peculiar since I am not familiar with FWD or AWD repair is that the front and back sides of the clutch were very loose and the new clutch is not so at all.

My concern is that after taking the transaxle etc all apart... that putting it back together with the new clutch may not be the fix.

Has anyone had a similar experience?
What are the failure modes of the clutch.
What else could be the problem.

Yep, I'm taking advice from you experts. I'm replacing anything that's replaceable. Throwout bearing, pilot bearing, clutch fork clips, and pressure plate. Anything else?

Also not sure how to get that pilot bearing out but in absence of a response, I suppose I can figure that out.

I looked on the repair advise section and found nothing on drivetrain. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place.
Thanks.

Mike

#2 v8vega215

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 08:39 PM

If you read the box of a new clutch it will say that 50k is average use for an aftermarket clutch.

Also if your son was trying to roast the tires :burnout: this can cause the clutch to slip a little causing excessive heat weakening the pressure plate causing the burnt clutch feel.

Another thing is if have taken the clutch out if the friction area of the disk is loose than that tells you that it needs replacement.

#3 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 08:40 PM

Sounds like you may have had a weak Presure Plate - if your installing all the parts you like you say I wouldn't forsee you haveing any trouble. You might replace the clutch cable while your at it - they are pretty cheap ($20 or less), and do wear out eventually.

Also - you should go ahead and replace the rear main seal on the engine - they are cheap too, and easy to reaplce while your in there. Just remove the flywheel and its right there. Remember to use a little silicone on the outside of the seal, and some grease or assembly lube on the inside of the seal. And use a dab of licktite on each of the flywheel bolts as they are tapped directly into the oil passage of the crank - this will seal them properly.

Clutch life is highly dependant on driving style, and conditions. 147k is an exceptionally long life I would say - most clutches last me 100k or less. (but then I drive like a damn maniac...). They can last up to 200k or maybe more depending on the driver. Your son may just be hard on em....

GD

#4 Nug

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Posted 18 December 2003 - 11:34 PM

You might be able to rent a pilot bearing puller from Autozone, but I have a method that works real well.

Get some dowel (sp?) rod. You know, round wooden rod, that is the same diameter as the inner pilot bearing hole, where the trans input shaft goes in. Might take some whittling on the bench grinder. Now pack the pilot bearing bore with grease. Put the dowel rod up in there and smack it with a hammer. It will hydraulic the bearing right out of there.

#5 RenaissanceMan

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 03:24 AM

I just had to mention that that is one of the most ingenius mechanical tricks I have ever heard... it.... makes so much sense... with the grease, and the bearing... and the dowel...

#6 RenaissanceMan

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 03:31 AM

ok, that wasnt supposed to end up as a new thread... dangit... oh well... anyway, I was refering to snotrockets pilot bearing removal trick.. speaking of other tricks... anyone else have any good tricks like that? I know I have done some crazy things with nylon rope and knots, to hold stuff in place, like tying a timber hitch around a torque convertor, and then tying it to a board that the engine was sitting on top off, to brace it while getting the crank pulley bolt off (this was a non subaru engine)

#7 Nug

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 08:59 AM

I used a small oak tree for a leaf spring once. But I won't hijack this thread further.

#8 northguy

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 09:44 AM

Pull this thread over to the side of the road, you two, and get out. There'll be nohijacking of threads before Christmas.:D Seriously, start a new one. Your ideas for a new thread are worthy, and this guy is trying to get his clutch fixed.

#9 mlambie

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 11:34 AM

Autozone was the trick. They loan out a blind bearing puller like a dent puller at no cost (unless you don't bring it back). The puller is too long but I'll get a bolt with the same thread pattern to connect to the bearing attachment. Made a jig out of wood to drive the throw out bearing out.

Thanks all for keeping me on track.

mike

#10 MilesFox

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 02:48 PM

make sure the clutch cable is not too tight. the tighter it is, the more like ithe pedal is being pressed in.

if it seems impossible to get a proper adjustment, suspect the pressure plate

you may as well remove the flywheel to service the rear seal, and then you ccan push out the pilot bearing from behind.

if not, the dowel method acts hydraulically. pack some grease into the hole, and when you tap in the dowel, the grease will force the bearing out. i think a 3/8 socket extension would work...

#11 Nug

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Posted 19 December 2003 - 06:23 PM

Snap! I forgot the pilot bearing is in the flywheel, not the crank.
Just take the flywheel off and knock it out.

The grease trick will work on everything else.




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