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After about two hrs of stop and stop :mad: traffic thurs. my 97 brighton w/ 2.2 and 5mt, now has a higher idle the when I started the drive. It now idles @ 2k rpm until warmed up for a long time and the it idle about 1500 rpm.

 

I had always felt it was a little slow returning to it's normal (about 800 rpm) idle when you clutched it in the past. Could this be a dirty IAC like the other post?

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Yes it could. It could also be your TPS sensor, doubt it though. I think you can just spray some wd40 or a throttle body cleaner that says it works to clean IAC's safely down this tube on your intake. I did it made my idle return much faster and more consistent.

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If you decide to use brake cleaner, at least go with non-chlorinated. Those typically just contain xylene, toluene, acetone, mineral spirits, etc. Chlorine in the engine is not typically a good idea, which is also why Duralube is not a product I would recommend - chlorinated paraffins which are typically used in metal machining processes.

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  • 1 year later...
Yes it could. It could also be your TPS sensor, doubt it though. I think you can just spray some wd40 or a throttle body cleaner that says it works to clean IAC's safely down this tube on your intake. I did it made my idle return much faster and more consistent.

 

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, but my 96 obw 2.5 is having some P0505 problems, and I needed to know what tube you are referencing on the IAC.

 

History: A couple days ago, the idle on start up was over 2k, and stayed there, then threw p0505, so I took my wife's car. Next day, problem seemed to work itself out. Yesterday, went to started the car, and it proceeded to just rumble and die. Tried starting again, and gave it some gas when it rumbled, then opened the hood and messed with some hoses and the electrical connector to the IAC, now it seems to idle fine.

 

Still would like to clean out the IAC.

 

Where should I check for potential vacuum leaks?

 

thanks,

eag

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