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Check engine light w/ intermitent heating issue


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36 replies to this topic

#26 lollydolly

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 09:39 PM

So Dolly --- how U like us now??


Um, I think you're fine - you are fine, right? Not playing around with the resident "my car light thingy is on what do I do" girl. :)

So, I got the code: P328 - knock sensor 1. Guy at Schucks didn't tell me what it did, but said it costs about $89 - $150. They didn't have it in stock.

So, is my car going to blow up on my commute into work tomorrow?

#27 lollydolly

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 09:59 PM

After doing a quick and dirty internet search on knock sensors, I see that the problem may have been caused by me using the crappy grade of gas?

One messageboard I say someone said the dealership wanted over $500 to replace it. Yeek. Surely, a sensor couldn't be that expensive?

Also, I sa if you don't get it fixed, you can cause engine damage. By driving with my CEL on for about 2 months, do you think I may have done more damage?

A always, thanks for the help!

#28 lollydolly

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 09:59 PM

...and sorry for all the typos.

#29 nipper

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 10:34 PM

...and sorry for all the typos.


heheehe don't worry about it, i'm just as bad

:clap:

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#30 211

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 11:43 PM

Oh my god! I'm surprised noone has told you to "be sure and replace the sensor with an OE dealer part"!!! :eek:

That's usually the SECOND thing people tell you, right after the "It's your head gaskets, they're blown" statement.

Let me be the first to say, get a OE Subaru replacement sensor (goes for most sensors on the soobs). They usually don't cost that much more anyway.

1stsubaru.com usually has really decent prices.

#31 lollydolly

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Posted 19 February 2008 - 11:48 PM

Oh my god! I'm surprised noone has told you to "be sure and replace the sensor with an OE dealer part"!!! :eek:

That's usually the SECOND thing people tell you, right after the "It's your head gaskets, they're blown" statement.

Let me be the first to say, get a OE Subaru replacement sensor (goes for most sensors on the soobs). They usually don't cost that much more anyway.

1stsubaru.com usually has really decent prices.


Probably a realllly dumb question, but that is a different sensor than the knock sensor, right?

#32 Olnick

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 02:37 AM

Probably a realllly dumb question, but that is a different sensor than the knock sensor, right?


Hi Lolly, welcome to USMB. You came to the right place--these guys really know their Subarus and are the most sharing bunch you'll ever find!

1) Are you asking about the "OE Subaru replacement sensor?" He's referring to the knock sensor (or any sensor in the car). OE or OEM simply means original equipment manufacturer, in other words a "genuine Subaru part" rather than an auto parts store part.

2) I had a high school teacher many (many) years ago whose favorite line was "There's no such thing as a dumb question!" Hey, you were smart enough to ask and that's well above average!

3) Don't know what part of Washington State you live in but call Mike Scarff Subaru in Auburn (near SeaTac) 866-528-5282, and ask for Jason in the parts department. Great guy, very helpful and they've always had the best internet prices I could find. As a matter of fact, they used to own the 1stsubaruparts site.

4) If you get a new knock sensor it's really not too difficult to install--anyone with a ratchet wrench and an extension could do it. In other words, don't let a shop charge you an arm and a leg just to screw it in!

5) Keep smiling. Things will get better!

Aloha, and again, welcome.

#33 msmithmmx

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 06:44 AM

I let my knock sensor stay on and off about a year. Being broken did not cause any harm. I found one on an old boneyard motor for a few dollars. I have seen people get away with the NAPA and Pepboys version with no problems. I may get some piling on with that comment. The Knock sensor is a common replacement item.

#34 lollydolly

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 11:42 AM

I let my knock sensor stay on and off about a year. Being broken did not cause any harm. I found one on an old boneyard motor for a few dollars. I have seen people get away with the NAPA and Pepboys version with no problems. I may get some piling on with that comment. The Knock sensor is a common replacement item.


This is good to know. There is a Carquest store also very close to me - any opinion on them?

And I may have solved the mystery of why the CEL goes off after my husband has used the car. It makes no sense though. The only difference when he drives it is that he adjusts the seat, and I have to adjust it back. (It's motorized, I'm sure you know). I did that yesterday and this morning, and for the first time in, well, I can't remember, the CEL was off when I turned on the car after I was the last one to use it and with the CEL on.

I know it sounds ridiculous, but it's either a huge coincidence, or I have a really freaky car.

Thanks for the help all!

#35 nipper

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 11:49 AM

I know it sounds ridiculous, but it's either a huge coincidence, or I have a really freaky car.


I think the word your loking for is "personality"


:clap:

nipper

#36 lollydolly

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Posted 20 February 2008 - 04:27 PM

This car has a lot of personality. The back seat doesn't fold down anymore, the plastic inside cover for the tailights has fallen off, the door doesn't seal all the way... lots of personality.

#37 four-fleet-feet

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Posted 21 February 2008 - 02:02 PM

You might test your theory this way: next time the light comes on, after you stop and turn off the car, move the seat yourself! If the light is off on your restart, you've got a real wiring issue somewhere. (Yes, you still have a sensor problem, anyway, according to the code.)

Did you have any work done on the seats? Are you the only owner? Have you noticed you need to replace certain fuses regularly, or you smell something *weird* in the car?

I'd say the on-again-off-again light may be due to a wiring issue; the fact that it is on at all (and your other problems) tells me you have a definite problem going on under the hood.

Once you track down a sensor and put it in, clear the code and run the car. If the light stays out but the overheating issue remains, I think you already know what we'll say. Have your compression checked at that point, if you aren't planning on doing it now to find out anyway.

Now that you know the codes can be read for free by any AutoZone or Schuck's in Washington (or any other location nationwide), if the light goes on do not wait :eek: two months :eek: before having it read! Please. That light is there for a reason, and ignoring it can be costly. Ignoring one problem can turn into a cascade of others over time.

Another parts place to try: Aaron's Auto is a Subaru-only junkyard in Burien, not too far from Sea-Tac airport. Call 1-800-541-7271 M-F, 8:30 to 5:00 PST, if you need something you can't afford new, or can't find locally anywhere else. They have a website, aaronsauto.com, but calling is easier, faster, and more accurate. FYI: they don't take American Express.




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