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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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toyota flatbed build...


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43 replies to this topic

#26 Rooinater

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 04:04 PM

some more update pics, tires installed, rear axle partially installed (still need to attach all the brake line and such), steering installed, and winch fully mounted. the only thing left to do for the winch is to cut out the hole in the bumper for the hause fairlead. the stock bumper will be used for now... i need to paint all the welds from the steering and winch mounting along with the fenders and rear crossbrace...

:popcorn: mmm.... approach angle...
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steering...
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:popcorn:
fender clearance at full locked... we'll see on compression in a few days...
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mockup for possible bumpstop mounting...
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if there's tire room after all the weight is installed in the front and rear... tossing around the idea of taking another inch out of the shackles... just tossing around for now.

#27 Rooinater

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Posted 07 April 2008 - 06:18 PM

some more pics, checking for rubbage in the fender. barely touches the inner fender at full lock and upward compression. will have to take a hammer and massage that a little. but it's on a smooth surface where it touches so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. nothing a little massaging won't remove. fyi, there is no weight in bed and a floor jack was used to compress the front up to check for rubbing and where the bumps stops will need to be placed. not for max suspension movement... steering checks 4.0 for clearance to the pitman arm.

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#28 Rooinater

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Posted 14 April 2008 - 12:23 AM

well the tire doesn't really touch. it's about an 1/8 of an inch touching the fender at full compression. so no massaging of the fender was needed when i showed up this weekend. but i did get all the winch plates and mounting, steering, rear cross brace and fenders painted. the steering box is mounted and the steering connected. the stock bumper was modified and mounted for now and a hawse fairlead was installed. did some measuring and looked into how we are going about stuffing the tcase to a flat belly. we also set the 1/4 elliptic springs out for size comarisons. they won't be going on till i get used to driving a solid axled rig again.... dad made some preliminary mounts for the front bumpstops, they'll be getting tweaked a little more, but they are an awesome start!! will be real solid when they get installed.... well here's the pics. the paint is ruff on the fenders, i just busted the rust off and barely blended the old paint. it's a wheeler, so it doesn't have to be perfect. :fawkdancesmiley:

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here's a pic for ya eric! lol... typical jared shot...
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bumpstop mockup
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just looking at the suspension to be in a year or so.
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#29 Rooinater

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Posted 15 April 2008 - 04:03 PM

well hydraulic assist has just been put into an extremely affordable range for me now! Posted Image Posted Image if i would of bought a hydraulic assist setup from trail gear, it would of cost $400 for the pump, cooler and resivoir, $200 dollars for the ram, and $400 dollars for a tapped steering box for hyd assist.... $1200 dollars!!! WTF!!! not in my budget, but it will be needed to turn those 39.5's in the rocks efficently.... so with some questions asked on nw-wheelers, i'll be able to do the ram setup for about $110, the tapped steering box for close to nothing, and the new high pressure modified saginaw steering pump for under $200!!! for a grand total of less than $350 i'll have hydraulic assist! that's a saving of $850 dollars or more! dad has a large pwr steering cooler just laying at the house, because he needed a bigger one for his truck. so i'll already have that! i'm stoked. now the question is, to buy the tcase parts and do that in may or the steering... maybe if i can swing it i'll get the tcase crossmember and crawl box rebuild kit, so that i can start the tcase stuffing. on top of that buy the steering ram, lines and fittings. then i can install the steering assist, and the following month i can get the pump parts! Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image Posted Image

#30 Rooinater

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Posted 16 April 2008 - 11:10 PM

well some new bling came in the mail for the truck. i'll actually install it on the truck when i get the bed built. but here's some mock up pics.

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#31 Rooinater

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 10:44 AM

figure i should up date my to do list and all that good stuff. not that anybody reads this section of the forum... :lol: :-p some plans have changed, but most have stayed fairly similar.

Dimensions and specs present and planned:
approx. 111" wheel base
28" to the belly
75" to the roof
79" bulge to bulge up front
80" bulge to bulge in the rear
39.5 iroks
beadlocks

Engine Bay
22r propane injected
tc modified high pressure saginaw steering box
pwr steering cooler
larger pwr steering resivoir
new radiator, w/dual electric cooling fans
high amp alternator

Cab and frame
bobbed rear frame
stuffed winch up front
rear winch
internal cage
tubbed and trimmed fenders
Half doors
suspension seats

Transmission and transfercase
5 speed forward shift
dual cases (front case 2.28, rear case 23 spline 4.7 twin sticked)
crawl box and tcase fully rebuilt
flatbelly

Frontend
modified rears up front
modified chevy shackles
14" travel bilstiens w/shock hoops
front square drive shaft
fully trussed and rebuilt front axle
5.29 gears
30 spline longfields
Aussie locker
hi steer w/flat pitman arm
Hydraulic assist
2" spacers

Rearend
Waggy 5 leafs
V6 widetrack axle housing
fully rebuilt
rear axle housing truss
5.29 gears
spool
chromoly rear shafts
14" travel bilstiens
2" spacers
(eventually down the road, 1/4 elliptic, dual triangulated 4link, 10 more inches off the rear of the frame)

i'm sure i missed a thing or two, but that's the basic outline.

#32 Fishums

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 08:01 PM

Pretty cool! About how much $ does it take to build one of those?

#33 Rooinater

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Posted 18 April 2008 - 08:08 PM

Pretty cool! About how much $ does it take to build one of those?


depends on what you want to do with it... mine... the tires cost $150 more than i paid for the truck....... so plenty, i don't have an exact total, just know that i need several thousand more to get it up and going to the specs that i want. then another grand for the propane injection... then after i roll it... another grand for a formula toy body. eric and ken paid like 1500 for their's, and they were wheelable from the get-go. mine needed some TLC, hence why i paid very little. but eric always finds the best deals.

i don't even want to actually tally how deep i'm into the cost portion....

#34 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 20 April 2008 - 05:28 PM

Hey man, lookin good! are you gonna stick with the 22RE or are you gonna go v6 or Chevy small block?

#35 Rooinater

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Posted 21 April 2008 - 09:22 PM

22r carb, it's not the fuel injected 22re, but it will be propane injected asap. staying with the 22r, 1 for semi-fuel efficency, 2 for the reliability, 3 it might just become a formula toy comp rig, unless i 4-link the rear, then it will just be a formula trail buggy and not a compitition rig, or i'll find another toyota and convert it to a formula toy.

this is what a formula toy is if your wondering. there's only one semi-local comp, and that's when we-rock is in ellensburg or if they get to come to ellensburg...
http://www.formulatoy.org/

http://www.tinbender...=1&d=1199313144

basic breakdown of a formula toy, is you take a toyota frame, engine, tranny, tcase, leaf springs, axles... with strict rules for modification, then take a hendrixmotorsports.com tube chassis and weld it to your frame. toyota instant buggy...

#36 Rooinater

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 04:22 PM

small update, picking up a bearing press on saturday, some rust removing wheels and some more rattle cans... then ordering some solid pinion spacers for the diffs, and let the bearing pressing begin... other than that i'll just be busting rust and doing some painting this month.

#37 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:29 PM

You should look into makin a 22r/20r hybrid, a 22r with a slightly modified 20r head, the 20r head flows better and boosts compression.

#38 Rooinater

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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:39 PM

You should look into makin a 22r/20r hybrid, a 22r with a slightly modified 20r head, the 20r head flows better and boosts compression.


i've looked into it, but it's about as high on my list as rear disc brakes are at the moment. i'll have to do that and some high compression pistons if i run this tired motor with propane. the other idea is to look into a rebuilt engine. but that's a lot of cash, so a rebuild on this engine + high compression pistons and a 20r head might be reasonable.

#39 Rooinater

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 04:08 PM

didn't get near as much accomplished this weekend as i was planning... i was planning on finishing stripping the paint off the back half of the frame and get it painted... but all i got done was helping my dad clear out the garage for the new 20ton press i bought, so that we can install the gears, lockers and rebuild the crawl box. then sunday was a late start for a run to reiter... perfect lines are needed when wheeling a stock zuk... i need a lift on that too... maybe an inch shackle lift for now...

#40 Rooinater

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 10:37 AM

Well, I'm finally getting some wrench time while I'm on spring break. I'm presently rebuilding the rear end. Removed the old shafts, which in the process of maxing out my 20 ton press and having to tap on the shaft to get them off... I bent the heck out of the backing plates, and now will have to go to disc brakes a lot sooner than planned... Since the drum brakes will have to go away now, I stripped the brake parts off and got it down to just the bare hubs, I took them to Alternative Blasters in Marysville and got them blasted. Painted the hubs with 2 coats of hunter green, still need to put on one more coat of paint on wednesday. Then we disassembled the rear differential to prep for the gear and spool install. I took the open carrier from the rear and started prepping it for my front Aussielocker. After finally getting the carrier disassembled and the spider gears out, we measured the carrier pin where the spider gears rode for wear and the center pin was out of spec for using the locker. Luckily we found another open carrier in the garage with an excellent center pin. Not sure where it came from, must of been when I got a bunch of toy axle parts for the subaru, and I just don't remember. Anyways I'll be finishing setting up the locker on wednesday, along with adding the last coat of paint to the hubs, finish removing the the bearing races from the carrier, finish cleaning the carrier and start the spool and gear install. The rest of the week i'll be finishing the axle. I'll try to start posting pics tonight, I left my camera cable on the peninsula... I'm headed over there today to take care of some stuff and will try to grap it. My camera uses an XD card which the computer up here doesn't have a slot for.

Edited by Rooinater, 24 March 2009 - 10:40 AM.


#41 Rooinater

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 08:03 PM

housing prepped for teardown
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stripped
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3rd member out
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pulling the carrier
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sand blasted hubs
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painted hubs
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getting ready to drive the pin out of the pinion shaft
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Starting the locker install
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#42 TheSubaruJunkie

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 11:44 PM

Let me know how that aussie locker works out for you. I was thinking of getting one for the front of the 4Runner.

Glad to see some progress being made.

#43 Rooinater

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 12:05 AM

Let me know how that aussie locker works out for you. I was thinking of getting one for the front of the 4Runner.


hopefully i'll be able to let you know by winter. Everyone i've chatted with haven't had a problem with them and or really like them. They are supposedly a lot better than the lockrights.

#44 Rooinater

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 11:23 PM

a little more progress today, finished painting the hubs, then cleaning the overspray... Then I setup the Aussielocker, which was an interesting task in itself, not hard but i used 2 different carriers and was getting the same out of tolerance measurement for the spacers... Called the US dealer and they said to mic the spacers. sure enough it was a difference in the spacers and they said the major thing with that particular clearance is that it's not to tight. So .006 looser than specs won't hurt a thing, it's the cam gear measurement that is critical to be within specs. Then i setup the hubs, put some wheel studs in the new axles, and pressed the hubs onto the shafts.

Setup Aussielocker
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Painted Hubs and stuffed the guts in
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mocked up on the housing.
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pressing the shafts in
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comparing the taper of the stock shafts and chromoly shafts, pictures don't really do justice of the taper difference.
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still left to do this week, setup the spool and gears for the rear third member, install the rear third, install the new hub seals and bolt up the shafts.




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