Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Another Heating Issue (Flushed!)
Posted 06 March 2008 - 01:43 AM
I am leaning towards a heater core issue because I felt the two pipes today and one was hot while the other was warm. Next good day I get, I am flushing the SOB. Anybody else experienced this?
Posted 06 March 2008 - 01:50 AM
Also, I don't think the EA81 radiators are supposed to be filled to overflow. they are supposed to be filled to like approx 3/4 inch down from that. anybody else chime in here to clarify this.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 09:05 PM
Posted 06 March 2008 - 09:44 PM
Posted 06 March 2008 - 10:23 PM
I though about putting a little catch jug in where the black vacuum thing is but am unaware if I need it or not with the weber on there. There is two disconnected metal hoses with one running through the firewall. Bratman thinks it has to do with the fuel system and I thought it might have something to do with the vacuum assist brakes. If it doesn't, it would make a good place to put a tub.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 10:31 PM
I doubt this is a heater core issue - when the coolant is low on an EA81 there won't be any flow through the core. If you have so little coolant that it's overheating then there's not going to be any flow through the core at all.
You need to find all your cooling system leaks. If it were me I would be pulling the intake manifold, addressing both the gaskets, the heater core bypass tube, heater core return line, both heater core hoses, the small hose to the carb base and the return to the block, all the steel nipples, and upper and lower radiator hoses. Do it all at once and replace the radiator cap and thermostat with new OEM parts. Same goes for the thermostat housing gasket and the intake manifold gaskets (careful with the bolts - 12 fl/lbs after chasing threads and use anti-sieze). THEN and only then can you rule out stuff other than the heater core, heat control valve, and radiator itself.
EA81's dont generally require much, if any "burping". Their cooling systems are well designed, and filling them when you first start the engine, and then once again after a cooldown is almost always sufficient.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 10:57 PM
When the issue decides to manifest itself, the heat hand will sit at half way and I will have ZERO heat.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 11:06 PM
Any indication of the heater control valve leaking under the dash? You say you can smell it.... those valves occasionally fail, and I've see leaks in heater core's where the coolant would run down under the carpet and out through the floor pan drain holes - leaving no indication on the carpet itself that you could see.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 11:10 PM
It's not just the hoses that can fail - without coolant being changed regularly corrosion will eat the hose barbs away and cause leaks too. You can just block the lines from the heater core bypass tube and the block that run to the carb base, and block the carb base tube as well.
A pressure tester to pressurize the cooling system while it's cold would help to find leaks, but the system on the EA81's is so simple you might as well spend the time just replacing all the stuff and have the peace of mind of knowing it's all new and R&R'd.
Posted 06 March 2008 - 11:54 PM
Posted 07 March 2008 - 01:26 AM
The coolant that can be seen on the lower right, that is what I have been battling constantly for the last few months.
Posted 15 March 2008 - 01:56 AM
Posted 15 March 2008 - 03:22 PM
Outside Temp. 55°
Center of radiator-92°
Inside of radiator-99°
Bottom of radiator-140°
Lower Radiator house-136°
Upper radiator hose-135°
Thermostat housing where it meets intake manifold-170°
1 & 3 Cylinder head-220°
2 & 4 Cylinder head-193°
Heater hose to heater core-169°
Heater hose return-116°
Air temp coming out of vents-79°
Posted 15 March 2008 - 06:57 PM
I recently replaced the hoses on my brat and by the alternator bracket is a "T" off that goes to the carb. There is a plastic valve in that line, that I broke and it leaked there. I removed the alt. mount so I could get to the hoses better, and replaced the valve with a junk yard special that I removed carefully. Hope this helps.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 02:00 AM
I monitored the temp over several cycles of the radiator fan both on the radiator and on the thermostat housing. The thermostat housing cycled between about 170 and 200. The radiator (top, middle) was a bit lower on both ends at around 150 to 190.
I think it's a mistake to run it as you were without the cap in place - that will not allow the system to pressurize properly and as a result your coolant would be approaching boiling point at very near the temp you measured at the 1/3 cylinder head. Boiling point of 50/50 is 223 degrees... with the cap in place it would be about 40 degrees higher than that. Assuming the system can build pressure properly - if you have leaks that may prevent the system from pressurizing.
Posted 16 March 2008 - 02:15 AM
Posted 17 March 2008 - 11:45 AM
If you have hot hoses goint to and from the core and no heat from the vents, it could also be the flapper that directs the air flow. The one that moves when you turn the heat temp dial. Check under the dash for broken vacuum lines or one of the valves sticking.
But if you have an external, obvious leak, fix it first. If it's internal it's going to be a head gasket, manifold gasket, or the carb base gasket.
Posted 17 March 2008 - 11:58 AM
Posted 18 March 2008 - 02:10 AM
Posted 18 March 2008 - 07:56 AM
The coolant flows through the core very slowly. Enough to heat it up, but not enough to replenish the heat lost that the fan is removing from it. Try flushing the core again through both hoses to back flush it.
Just went to town and back, this is exactly what it is doing. When flushing the core this weekend, do I need to use some kind of chemical solution or will just a pressure nozzle on a garden hose be sufficient?
Posted 18 March 2008 - 10:54 AM
Remove the heater hoses from the manifold but leave them connected to the core. Put this fitting in one and connect your garden hose. Start with very little pressure then slowly turn it up. I like to turn on the hose, kink it in my hand to stop the flow, connect it, then control the flow myself by releasing the kink slowly. Just remember that your home water pressure is 4 or 5 times greater than the pressure created in your cooling system, so go easy. After a few minutes, switch hoses and back flush. You may get a surge of brown funky water coming out as soon as you start the flow. Once the water flows through clear at a high rate in both directions, your done.
Some people have had heater cores blow out doing this, but the core was in bad shape to begin with.
If this doesn't work by getting the build up out, you can drain the coolant from the system, add a good flushing agent, reverse the hoses to reverse flow through the core and go for a drive, or you may have to change the core.
Posted 22 March 2008 - 06:05 PM
I found the garden hose fitting at the Lowe's last night, and what a tool! Fits perfectly inside the heater hoses and holds itself so you can run and turn water off. I started with flushing the hoses, then stuck it in the radiator and alternated between putting my finger off the tubes that come off the intake manifold that the heater hoses clamp to. Seen a good couple wads of trash come shooting out of the tubes. Then replaced another OEM thermostat with another OEM.
Filled it back up with water drove it up the road and back. Had great heat the entire time and was even running a little cooler. Drove it back home and repeated processes. Drained radiator and put new anti-freeze back in. I attempted the "fill on an incline" process to try and eliminate air in my system. We will have to wait and see how that turns out. Drove the twenty minutes back to my apartment and had heat the entire time at an average speed of 60 mph.
I am hoping I fixed this issue once and for all. Thanks to everyone that contributed to helping me keep my Brat on the road.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users