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some sort of short
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:21 AM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:37 AM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 09:06 AM
Have fun - circuit tracing always means that the bad part is located right where you can't get to it without standing on your head and using your left hand only while twisting some solid cable with your right hand (and CURSING!!)
Really, though - check and see where the wire bundles go past metal "edges" and look for rubbing. IF you find an open bit of insulation, wrap it with a few layers of tape and see what happens (you could have more than one short even in the same cable)
Posted 24 March 2008 - 10:39 AM
I take it that the FUSE blows in the headlamp circuit? (There is no way the bulb could blow from a short)[...]
Besides shorts or opens in wiring causing the headlamp not to light, it's possible that the socket isn't making good contact. Another possibility is that the assembly is physically loose -- vibration can cause shortened lamp life.
It's unlikely that the three electrical problems are directly related, at least in a factory-wired arrangement. Of course, if someone sufficiently clueless wired things, all bets are off.
For anyone not up on basic electrical circuits (and willing to admit that to at least themselves ), this link is a good starting point:
Posted 24 March 2008 - 01:57 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 02:16 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:26 PM
None of those are necessarily related. If the lamp blew out once and you replaced and it has been ok. The speaker could be a poor connection or faulty speaker; sometimes when poeple put in different radios they don't solder the connections so they can work loose with time. Horn could be a poor ground or connection again,etc.
blows left low beam headlight, horn does not work, and the rear passenger side speaker works 50% of the time
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:36 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:37 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:39 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 03:48 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 04:57 PM
Take a look at your bulb as well - is the filament inside the bulb intact or broken. IF broken, the bulb is burnt out.
Did you remember to wipe down the bulb outside with either rubbing alcohol or everclear and not handle the bulb with bare fingers on installation.
Those bulbs get so hot, the quartz glass will fail and take the filaments with it.
Posted 24 March 2008 - 08:02 PM
Posted 24 March 2008 - 11:24 PM
IF you have a friend and a multimeter, unplug the horn from the wire and check the voltage when someone pushes the horn button. Voltage but no sound - usually a bad ground at the horn
Listen for the click of the relay, too. If the relay clicks but the horn doesn't sound, then try the horn itself with the direct power (unless you did that first)
No voltage, then it's back upstream of the horn - test the relay if you can (or just put in a spare and see if it works).
Still no joy -
Next try to see which wire is the line to the horn button. Disconnect the battery and do a resistance test with the horn button held down and see if there's continuity. (or leave the battery hooked up and use a continuity light to check the circuit from the battery to the wire that connects to the horn button. Open circuit and you might have an "open" at the horn button.
The horn circuit is about as simple a relay circuit as there is. Sequential circuit trace backwards until you find the open (I would tend to suspect either the relay or a bad ground - RARELY a bad horn)
the button GROUNDS the output coil of the horn relay
the relay switches to provide power to the horn when the input circuit grounds (VERY low amperage circuit)
the horn sounds because power is supplied to the horn input terminal (moderate amperage circuit)
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