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Do you think this could be Plug related? Or is it my carb.
#1
Posted 23 December 2003 - 07:20 PM
The car runs like crap when it is cold. It's a pain in the rump roast to warm it up 15 minutes every morning, but I've come to expect it. Once it gets warm it runs fine... almost.
After the car is warm... it will drive fine for about 15-20 minutes when suddenly it will start to act like the engine is cold. This is the best way I can describe it. The car will sputter from a stop, and it feels like it's all bogged down at a certain RPM. If I floor it, the car will sputter and then catch on and zoom off (just as if it were cold).
During its "cold" phase, the idle will also drop from its normal 900rpm to about 500, and it always sounds like it is about to die.
This "cold" phase will usually last about 10 minutes. It happens regardless of operating temp (hell, the first time I noticed it, I had been on the freeway for about 15 minutes). Most days it happens well after the car has warmed up and been running for a good while.
One item of note... is that this always happens when I shut my car off for a few minutes and then start it back up. Say for instance, I've been driving around all day and stop at the store. The car is turned off for maybe 8 minutes total, but when I start it back up again it's almost guaranteed to do this for a few minutes.
Now my some-what ignorant diagnosis tells me that my carb is acting up. Whether due to the colder weather, or age, it's starting to act up. Seems like all I need is a carb rebuild and everything would be great.
I would have already done this, but I have another thing I want to run past you guys to see if this is the problem.
About a month ago, my car stripped a spark plug hole and shot the plug out. I had Smart Service in Ballinger, WA helicoil the threads, and they repaired it admirably.
I just want to know if you guys think i could have a bad plug. I'm pretty sure they just re-used my old plug, which could have been damaged when it shot out. I'm sure they'd check to make sure it was gapped alright, but could the problems I'm describing be caused by a bad Spark Plug?
What do you guys think it could be, Carb or Plug?
EDIT: Forgot to mention that it's an '85 GL Wagon with a carbed EA82.
#2
Posted 23 December 2003 - 07:33 PM
check for throttle shaft play.
#3
Posted 23 December 2003 - 08:39 PM

Seriously though, I think its a carb issue. Brought about by sitting for that time before you were able to get it fixed.
#4
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:01 AM
Hell, the t-bird sat for longer than that, and you saw me fire that thing right up :-)
#5
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:03 AM
#6
Posted 24 December 2003 - 12:55 PM
If that doesn't do it - time for a Weber.
GD
#7
Posted 24 December 2003 - 10:52 PM
spark plugs are cheap so I would replace those while I was in there too.

#8
Posted 24 December 2003 - 10:53 PM
#9
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:23 PM
#10
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:35 PM
#11
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:43 PM
I guess I'll put in new plugs... check the fuel filter... and see how it goes from there.
How hard is it to rebuild a carb? Can I even get a rebuild kit for my existing one?
#12
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:49 PM
#13
Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:58 PM
You can get a Weber in need of a rebuild for about $50 or less on ebay - rebuilt and jet kit for another $50, and the adaptor is about $35 - $40 - so it's not as expensive as all that really.
GD
#14
Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:00 AM
#15
Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:02 AM

#16
Posted 25 December 2003 - 02:32 AM
how's this sound: after driving a good while and running fine, you park it and go into the store. you come out, it starts fine, you start to drive, and at the first stop light when you go it wants to die, like it's not getting any fuel. sound familiar? it's got to be the carb i say. someone was selling a used weber for $50 in the marketplace this week! i got one from edrach a couple weeks ago for $75. the rebuild kit cost me $25, the adapter plate will be another $35. AND the weber is easier to work with than the hitachi (if that's what you got)
however on a side note just to be sure check your charging system?!
i had a voltage regulator go bad once and since the fuel pump runs off of the alternator, it was causing me funky problems that felt like fuel starvation.
#17
Posted 25 December 2003 - 03:15 AM
I considered it could have been the draw off the alternator from my amp, but it happens even with the music off.
Whenever my car is sputtering like this, and idling at 500rpm or so, the voltage is low (at like, 8) but I think that's just due to the low RPM, because when I rev it, it jumps back up to 13 volts.
#18
Posted 25 December 2003 - 03:58 AM
I wasn't lucky at all: rebuilt my carb twice, had 3 carburetors to choose the best looking parts from, wasted TONS of cleaner, and it still wouldn't work (flooded no matter what).
Rebuild kit is freely available though...
#19
Posted 25 December 2003 - 07:05 PM
Screw the EPA and the state of Alaska and their goddamn I/M tests.
#20
Posted 26 December 2003 - 09:50 PM
Partsman
88 GL wagon 5spd D/R
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