Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
EA-81 intake manifold removal -- broken bolt. Any ideas?
Posted 23 December 2003 - 08:08 PM
For the past 4 or 5 days I kept spraying the broken bolt with penetrating oil, hoping to be able to at least slide the manifold out, but that didn't happen so far. Any ideas?
I suspect that most likely I'll have to rock the manifold until the rest of the bolt breaks off below the manifold and try to tack-weld a nut on it afterwords... Or just take it to a machine shop and let them figure it out. I know, it's gonna be so much fun! (I don't have a welder.)
Any suggestions/ideas will be appreciated.
Posted 23 December 2003 - 08:31 PM
The previous post proves that we are extremely helpful sometimes.
Posted 23 December 2003 - 08:40 PM
other instances i have hasd a bolt break off at the base of the intake. but i have reassembled the intake minus a bolt, and it has been fine for over 4000 miles. i had another motor like that as well
one spfi wagon we had busted 2 bolts on one head. so with the head off the car we mwelded some allthread to make studs for th eintake. but one of them broke torquing it down. but it still worked, even thru a mild overheat(radiator)
the other one busted off when i removed the intake, but i have put it back together with just 1 bolts, and it runs like its supposed to, but has not been driven on yet.
i hope this helps, this is what has worked for me..
Posted 23 December 2003 - 08:55 PM
Seriously, it sounds like a start, or something.
Posted 23 December 2003 - 09:16 PM
just for everybody reading this, you dont want it to happen to you! heat up those bolts with a bernsomatic torch. they are cheap as hell, and make life alot easier. you heat up the bolt, and let it cool for a half minute, then it turns right out. usually
good luck, drill the heck out of it.
Posted 23 December 2003 - 09:28 PM
Posted 24 December 2003 - 05:27 AM
What are those ideas you're talking about, SnotRocket? Who knows, maybe in addition to the digital camera Santa should bring me a small cheap welding device... (Or a friend with such willing to make a trip.)
I'm still waiting on those bolts. It's probably hopeless, but what the heck.
The stuff I'm spraying it with is not WD-40, it's that yellowish deal in red-and-yellow can; supposedly pretty strong.
Posted 24 December 2003 - 08:07 AM
Posted 24 December 2003 - 08:41 AM
You might try to swing the manifold back and forth, pivoting it at that bolt. Just don't try to do to much of a swing.
I have used snotrocket's method in the past, it works sometimes.
May also try using one of those flat prybars under it, near the stubborn bolt, to maybe get it to move upwards abit.
As stated previously, heat applied to the area, may help also.
Posted 24 December 2003 - 09:36 AM
Penetrating oil doesn't work well because it does nothing for the rust that is holding the bolt in place. I exposed some of the board member to some stuff called "Yield". It actually eats/dissolves/removes/softens however you wish to describe it. Edrach found a distributor and his company bought some and he resold to a few board member.
Back to the point. I spray the solution into the hole of the offending bolt. Let it sit for a few minutes. The slowly began to twist the manifold back and forth. Then, gently placed a pry bar under the manifold while twisting. It came off with a little work. Now I didn't mess with the bolt after words because I was just after the manifold. I'm not sure if anyone from your area got any of this stuff. I have a couple extra cans. But it is expensive by what you are probably used to. $13.00 a can. It lasts a long time. I have two cans that lasted almost three years.
There are a couple less destructive ways to remove a broken/frozen bolt. Small propane torches work well. They don't get hot as fast as gas type. Heat-cool-heat-cool approach can give good results. Cutting it off flush with the block and drill out then use an E-Z out also produces good results. There is enough room in the block there to install a Heli-coil if neccessary.
What ever you decide to try go slow and be patient. Otherwise the results could be catastrophic.
Posted 24 December 2003 - 10:37 AM
Posted 25 December 2003 - 03:08 AM
Archemitis, I wish I knew about the heating before I started messing with the manifold. All the knowledge circulating in this board would probably make quite a decent book. Oh well, maybe I get better in the future. After all this GLF is my first real car project.
13 bucks is not a problem, I might think of getting the stuff. Do you have any idea what the shipping would cost?
HOwever, you've got me wondering: maybe I should try to spray some rust converter in there. I'm not sure if RustFix would be a good idea or not. After all it doesn't just dissolve the rust, but forms a different compound that doesn't go anywhere.
The whole manifold actually pivots around the broken bolt, I just realized that I forgot to mention that earlier.
Posted 25 December 2003 - 04:25 AM
How does RustFix mix with penetrating oil?...
Posted 25 December 2003 - 08:05 AM
Pivot the manifold while pulling, or prying up on it. May help to have an extra pair of hands to help you.
The corrosion in there will bind it up, pivoting the manifold should help keep it broke loose. May take awhile to get it off of the stud, so be patient.
Posted 25 December 2003 - 09:18 AM
onr thing to consider on the next intake job: if the bolt seems to turn a little, bit with resistance, turn the bolt ever so slightly, turn in a turn, back out half a turn, in a turn, out half a turn, you get the idea. the idea it that although the bolt may turn with resistance, dont apply so much torque that the bolt snaps. its one of those things that you have to exercise some "technique", but sometimes a technique has to be developed from experience, even if that means botching a job the first time, so you know what not to do the next time around.
so far roberts wagon is doing just fine with only one(short) bolt on the passenger intake, with new gaskets...
oh yeah, the yellow and red can PB blaster, its good stuff....
Posted 25 December 2003 - 01:22 PM
Posted 25 December 2003 - 02:41 PM
Posted 25 December 2003 - 02:47 PM
Posted 25 December 2003 - 02:51 PM
Posted 26 December 2003 - 02:10 AM
As to the tools, beleive it or not, but we have both in the household -- an excellent cordless and compressor+impact. I have actually bought the impact for one of my first solo jobs -- sway bar replacement. Someone I trusted told me that mine wasn't any good, so I went through all the trouble of dragging the old one out and putting the one from my parts car in, mind it all that WITHOUT taking off any of the exhaust parts. Anyway, some related bolts were way too tuff for me. At that point I borrowed a compressor and bought an impact... And quite recently we've found a great deal on a compressor.
As to the sway bar -- until this day I do not know if it was worth it! Indeed, to replace a used sway bar with another one just as used? I didn't and don't notice any difference. Oh well, let's call it a learning experience.
QMan - what about spraying some RustFix on that bolt?
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users