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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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EA82 Wagon suspension mods?


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19 replies to this topic

#1 Subafreak

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Posted 24 December 2003 - 11:58 PM

Just wondering what kinda mods yall are using on lifted EA82's


I had a stock spring with rear spring inside setup upfront for a wile. It worked well to keep the suspension fron slamming the bump stops but was a little to stiff for good flexing. I just put a set of the 85 to 86 adjustable struts in the front and thought using a modifyed set of springs from a Tacoma would work well. WRONG, way to stiff. If I jacked the front wheel off the ground till it lifted the rear, it would only flex about an inch. So I swaped back in the stock springs, they work good as long as I have the jacking bolts about 3/4s up. I plan on building a winch bumper to house an S9000 Superwinch and I know this will put to much weight over the front for the stock springs to keep working well so I was just wondering what other setups might be working well for a situation like this?

#2 Scrub2k

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:17 AM

If you do a search for Springs you should come up with some posts about doing the spring swap from an 88-89 Honda Accord Hatchback, as they are almost the same size, from what ive read they give you a little more lift with good ride manners, search around for it and you will find more info on it

#3 Subafreak

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:24 AM

And thats for the front springs?

#4 Scrub2k

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:29 AM

uhm...i think so, but im not totally sure you would have to find the post and it gives all the details, im still dealing with the Air Suspension on my car so this isent my expertise area :rolleyes: :(

#5 StormTrooper

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:39 AM

You are correct about the year and make of honda to get the springs, but they are off the front strut springs and are used as the rear springs of the EA82, at least thats what rallyruss, the d00d that discoved this mod did. dont think they can be used up front, but that wouldnt be the first time russ has jammed my foot in my mouth...:D

#6 subiemech85

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:39 AM

Tennis balls, stuff them inside the spring center, this wasn't my idea, but car came this way :clap:
pic to come later

#7 Scrub2k

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:40 AM

Welp I Was Wrong Sorry :( not the First time

#8 StormTrooper

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 12:45 AM

message boards are like playin telephone...the truth eventually gets lost in the passing of info...what can ya do?

#9 MilesFox

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 11:12 AM

maybe the strut itself is bad.

although the strut does not support the weight of the vehicle, it does however control the rate at which it bounces up and down.

so if a strut is bad, that will allow the suspension to move fast enough to bottom out.

just some consideration...

#10 Subafreak

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 08:03 PM

I just put in new struts, but the ones that were in there are really shot. It's just a matter of the extra weight over the front axle, I had a bumper with alot of heavy steel in it but I'm making a new lighter one using more aluminum. Also I think the EJ22T weighs a bit more than the EA82. The stock set up is OK for now but I might go back to my duel front spring set up, especialy when I put the winch on it, I'll try to find a way to put an extra set of shocks on the front to control the rebound becouse the stock struts just arn't valved for that kinda spring rate.

#11 MilesFox

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Posted 25 December 2003 - 10:49 PM

go to msn groups and search for rguyver
he used to be on the board--
anyway, he has ea82 front end in a hatch, and has made shocks that connect to the swaybar mount. go look there, that will be in mind with what you want to do

#12 Subafreak

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 10:19 AM

Thanks I'll take a look for it. I've seen some pics of a BRAT with a set up like that in it but I have no idea where I came across them.

#13 subarubrat

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 10:58 AM

Here are my lower mounts:

Posted Image

Here are my upper mounts:

Posted Image

The lower mount installed:

Posted Image

Side view showing important clearance between shock and mount:

Posted Image

Overall view:

Posted Image


The top shock mount is the stud type and slips through the loop in the top strut mount. A poly bushing goes above and below the loop with the tension set so that the shack can pivot as needed without having verticle play. The lower mount is secured by a nut that barely pushes the washer against the bushing. The shaft is a stainless steel bolt so it won't corrode and it is lubricated. This is critical so that the lower mount pivots. The shocks swing as needed for truning and do not bind at any point in their travel or twist. There is no resistance added to steering.

#14 Subafreak

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 11:39 AM

Well that is an interesting setup, What kinda springs are you using up front to support the extra weight?



BTW. Your BRAT is badass!

#15 subarubrat

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 12:34 PM

http://www.kingsprings.com/

I emailed them and asked for a spring set that was the same diameter as the stock spring but 2 inches longer and speced for about 400 pounds additional vehicle weight. I had to email three times to get someone to take the effort to compare specs for me. The first two just replied that they had only one variety.

#16 Subafreak

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 08:28 PM

So they are a custom spring or just a spring for something else that happend to have the right specs for you? I assume you are using stock struts up front?

I think the biggest prob is that the stock strut doesn't have alot of travel in it. Ever think of getting some inserts for the strut bodys to give some extra droop and compression?

#17 subarubrat

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Posted 26 December 2003 - 10:05 PM

Exactly what I did. Cut the seam on the stock one and gutted it. Then I hit the parts store and found a KYB that had allot more travel. The hard part was welding it in, lots of small welds and cooling breaks.

#18 Subafreak

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Posted 27 December 2003 - 10:13 AM

Originally posted by subarubrat
Exactly what I did. Cut the seam on the stock one and gutted it. Then I hit the parts store and found a KYB that had allot more travel. The hard part was welding it in, lots of small welds and cooling breaks.





Well then that is pretty cool:cool: Kinda voids the lifetime warranty thoe, huh?;)

#19 jrgaylor

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Posted 27 December 2003 - 11:55 AM

I do not know if any of you have tried this or if it works on subarus but on my explorer I have removed both the front and rear sway bars and it increased my articulation by a couple of inchs on both ends, it took alittle while to get to use to the lean on corners.
Joe

#20 subarubrat

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Posted 27 December 2003 - 02:48 PM

A good comprimise is to make your bars adjustable. Simply put, cut a 1/2 inch section out of the bar near as possible to the middle. Then weld 1/4 inch wall pipe about 3 inches long with an inside diameter just larger than the bar to one side of the bar. You will now have a socket that the other side fits into. Insert the other end of the bar into the socket and drill two 1/4 holes about a half inch apart. Pull it back out and grease it with a heavy grease. Insert the other end in and use bolts or pins (I use pins with holes for cotter pins) in the holes you drilled. The bar will function as normal onroad but in about 30 sec. you can pull the pins and disable it.

Also, if you take the extra time to sort of "countersink" the holes on the swaybar just a hair it makes the pin insertion a thousand times easier.




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