I have read thru the posts on here for a while but have a question. I have done my brakes on the old 90 Legacy wagon years ago, but never the 01.
Do I require much more 'skill' to do those brakes? I am thinking of rotors and pads...any other things I should consider? What do most recommend for a non-performance family car?
cheers
scott
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Guest Message by DevFuse
How to Brakes 2001 Legacy Wagon L
Started by
scottsheppard@videotron.ca
, Apr 13 2008 10:40 AM
6 replies to this topic
#2
nipper
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Posted 13 April 2008 - 10:41 AM
If you have done discs before, you can do these too. They are really easy.
nipper
nipper
#3
Rooster2
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Posted 13 April 2008 - 03:20 PM
My first Subie was a '91 that I did pad and rotors on. Now, I have 98 and 99 Subie OBWs. Both have ABS, however, I don't notice any difference working on the brakes. I can't imagine that an '01 model is any different then working on your old '90.
Buy your brake supplies at any parts store, like you likely did before.
Buy your brake supplies at any parts store, like you likely did before.
#4
jerryjetman
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Posted 13 April 2008 - 11:38 PM
I found a set of drilled rotors on line at a good price. Installed them about 6 months ago and have had no problems with them. It is a basic brake change and you should have no problem with this job..
#5
aircraft engineer
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Posted 13 April 2008 - 11:49 PM
Doing rears can be a chore because of the need to remove the parking brake (small drum brake - or at least it was on the 98 Forester I was taking apart)
Fronts are "simple" - take off the caliper and hang it from the spring with a piece of wire. Take off the rotor and either turn it or replace it (or re-use it if the rotor checks out). Compress the caliper. Put in the new pads and put it back together.
rear discs are the same except for dealing with the parking brake. get a book like a Haynes or a Chilton and a digital camera. take pictures as you tear it down for reference when you put it back together.
Pretty much a matter of matching the old parts up against the new parts and putting them in. Depends on whether there are any "brake specials" available where you are, too. just use "semi-met" or "ceramic" pads (organics won't last)
Fronts are "simple" - take off the caliper and hang it from the spring with a piece of wire. Take off the rotor and either turn it or replace it (or re-use it if the rotor checks out). Compress the caliper. Put in the new pads and put it back together.
rear discs are the same except for dealing with the parking brake. get a book like a Haynes or a Chilton and a digital camera. take pictures as you tear it down for reference when you put it back together.
Pretty much a matter of matching the old parts up against the new parts and putting them in. Depends on whether there are any "brake specials" available where you are, too. just use "semi-met" or "ceramic" pads (organics won't last)
#6
EVOthis
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Posted 14 April 2008 - 11:50 AM
im just puttin this out there..........there is a small possibility that when you depress the caliper without opening the bleeder that the brake fluid will make its way back up into the lines and ruin the check valves for the ABS system........i have done countless brake jobs and have never run into this problem but i have heard of it happening before.......just a tip.....
#7
nipper
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Posted 14 April 2008 - 12:19 PM
im just puttin this out there..........there is a small possibility that when you depress the caliper without opening the bleeder that the brake fluid will make its way back up into the lines and ruin the check valves for the ABS system........i have done countless brake jobs and have never run into this problem but i have heard of it happening before.......just a tip.....
No.
The abs is a flow through design. What can happen somtimes is when bleeding the system, on an older master cylinder, pressing the pedal down too far and damaging the internal cups by rubbing against the ridge that has formed after millions of stops.
nipper
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