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FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement


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311 replies to this topic

#301 Rooster2

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 12:02 PM

just bought my daughter a 2011 subaru outback wagon w/ 90k miles.  great car!  clean and all is good excetp.... it unfortunately, has the delayed shift into reverse and drive; moreso in drive.  the first day of owning the car i had the transmission serviced and it did NOT help.  just spoke with my personal mechanic, who i trust, who will be working on the car anyway to stop the exhaust rattling sound that makes the car sound like a piece of sh*t.  i told him about this forum and the trans x mix formula and he is going to drain and replace what was just put in there 3 weeks ago.  i sure hope i am one of those that can do the oh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhh  it's fixedddddddddddddddddd shout!  lol

 

will update once that service is completed next week and every now and then going forward

I wrote the original post here, and have kept track of its following over the years. The automatic trannys on 99 & 00 were equipped with some sort of a seal that gets lazy over time, causing delayed engagement of forward gears. (Subaru fixed this problem on later model cars) Trans-X works great to fix this problem on the 99 & 00 models. However, I am unaware of anyone saying that it will fix a 2011 auto tranny. It may help, or may do nothing. Use the smaller bottle 15 oz size, not the larger size bottle.

 

Also, be aware that a tranny drain only drains out half the tranny fluid. The other half stays in the torque converter. So, often, a fill then drain of 3 times is done, with short drives between drain/fills, to thoroughly drain out old fluid.

 

Another thought.......your 2011 may have the ECVT trans axle, which is far different tranny, then the older style auto 4 speeds with torque converter. If so, it is unknown if Trans-X will fix an ECVT. Let us know if you have the ECVT, or the older style 4EAT auto tranny.



#302 Gloyale

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 10:56 AM

i would be delighted to learn that the PERMANENT fix is only 15? hours and a 3$ part.

 

Pull trans.

Remove torque converter

install new o-ring on turbine shaft

reinstall TC and install in car.

 

Man, oh man, I wish I could bill 15 hours for that.  more like 3 or 4.  And the O-ring is only $3.



#303 Fairtax4me

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 06:53 PM

Pull trans.
Remove torque converter
install new o-ring on turbine shaft
reinstall TC and install in car.
 
Man, oh man, I wish I could bill 15 hours for that.  more like 3 or 4.  And the O-ring is only $3.


That's the o-ring that causes this problem?!? Damn I wish I had known that about two years ago! Would have taken me all of 5 minutes to replace that on my friends Forester when I had the engine out to fix the separator plate leak. I thought it was stuffed back in the trans between the pump and the main case somewhere!

#304 presslab

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 02:46 PM

I doubt it's that o-ring on the input shaft...  That is fluid for the torque converter lock-up release circuit.
 
Most likely it's a bad outer seal on the forward clutch apply piston.
6.jpg
http://www.searchaut...ges-subaru-4eat

#305 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 04:47 PM

That makes more sense Presslab. Thanks for the link. Now the question is... How difficult is that to get to? Time to poke around in the FSM.

#306 presslab

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 05:15 PM

It's pretty much in the bowels of the trans.  To remove the forward drum everything needs to come apart except the valve body.  Might as well put new clutches in while it's apart, too.

 

No special tools needed though, except a gear puller and a 35mm socket.  The FSM has very good instructions.



#307 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:09 PM

Yeah that is pretty well buried in there. That link says there may also be shift flare symptoms associated with this o-ring failure. Before the last Trans-X treatment I did she had mentioned there were certain times the transmission felt like it would go into neutral, mostly at slower speeds when the transmission was cold. She said none of that has happened since the last Trans-X. I kind of figured maybe that was related, so its nice to know that the same seal also caused that problem. Of course that also means that one of these days the forward clutch is probably going to cook.

#308 SOBER0014

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:58 AM

Yeah that is pretty well buried in there. That link says there may also be shift flare symptoms associated with this o-ring failure. Before the last Trans-X treatment I did she had mentioned there were certain times the transmission felt like it would go into neutral, mostly at slower speeds when the transmission was cold. She said none of that has happened since the last Trans-X. I kind of figured maybe that was related, so its nice to know that the same seal also caused that problem. Of course that also means that one of these days the forward clutch is probably going to cook.

 

I wrote the original post here, and have kept track of its following over the years. The automatic trannys on 99 & 00 were equipped with some sort of a seal that gets lazy over time, causing delayed engagement of forward gears. (Subaru fixed this problem on later model cars) Trans-X works great to fix this problem on the 99 & 00 models. However, I am unaware of anyone saying that it will fix a 2011 auto tranny. It may help, or may do nothing. Use the smaller bottle 15 oz size, not the larger size bottle.

 

Also, be aware that a tranny drain only drains out half the tranny fluid. The other half stays in the torque converter. So, often, a fill then drain of 3 times is done, with short drives between drain/fills, to thoroughly drain out old fluid.

 

Another thought.......your 2011 may have the ECVT trans axle, which is far different tranny, then the older style auto 4 speeds with torque converter. If so, it is unknown if Trans-X will fix an ECVT. Let us know if you have the ECVT, or the older style 4EAT auto tranny.

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001.  My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed! 



#309 SOBER0014

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 12:00 PM

just bought my daughter a 2011 subaru outback wagon w/ 90k miles.  great car!  clean and all is good excetp.... it unfortunately, has the delayed shift into reverse and drive; moreso in drive.  the first day of owning the car i had the transmission serviced and it did NOT help.  just spoke with my personal mechanic, who i trust, who will be working on the car anyway to stop the exhaust rattling sound that makes the car sound like a piece of sh*t.  i told him about this forum and the trans x mix formula and he is going to drain and replace what was just put in there 3 weeks ago.  i sure hope i am one of those that can do the oh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhh  it's fixedddddddddddddddddd shout!  lol

 

will update once that service is completed next week and every now and then going forward

 

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001
My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans
fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that
service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful
rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed!



#310 brus brother

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 03:52 PM

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001.  My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed! 

As far as the heat shield rattles, many have had success with using
large hose clamps to add rigidity. Really low tech but non invasive.

I once complained when I brought my car in for service and they fixed it
by screwing a stainless screw through the heat shield into the exhaust. I
found that a bit aggressive and destructive... but it did work. On an
old 1991 Loyale,, an indie ripped the heat shields off and told me not
to drive over high grass. Is it something about Subies or do all cars with heat shields fail at the same rate?



#311 Fairtax4me

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 05:44 PM

Subarus are highly prone to heat shield rattle because the shields are just kinda clamped around the pipes. Most other cars have them welded or bolted on. After years of heating/cooling and some rust thrown in they get loose and start moving around.
I fix them with a 2-1/4" exhaust clamp.
Screws always fall out. The hose clamps don't always stay tight. Exhaust clamps are forever. At least, forever enough to last until the pipes rust out.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 03 July 2014 - 05:46 PM.


#312 CNY_Dave

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 06:02 PM

Stainless steel ty-wraps are a good bet if you are looking to buy something... I just use plain tie-wire, it l;asts a surprisingly long time.

(and it's C H E A P :) )






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