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FIXED!! Trany delayed forward engagement


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320 replies to this topic

#301 Rooster2

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 12:02 PM

just bought my daughter a 2011 subaru outback wagon w/ 90k miles.  great car!  clean and all is good excetp.... it unfortunately, has the delayed shift into reverse and drive; moreso in drive.  the first day of owning the car i had the transmission serviced and it did NOT help.  just spoke with my personal mechanic, who i trust, who will be working on the car anyway to stop the exhaust rattling sound that makes the car sound like a piece of sh*t.  i told him about this forum and the trans x mix formula and he is going to drain and replace what was just put in there 3 weeks ago.  i sure hope i am one of those that can do the oh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhh  it's fixedddddddddddddddddd shout!  lol

 

will update once that service is completed next week and every now and then going forward

I wrote the original post here, and have kept track of its following over the years. The automatic trannys on 99 & 00 were equipped with some sort of a seal that gets lazy over time, causing delayed engagement of forward gears. (Subaru fixed this problem on later model cars) Trans-X works great to fix this problem on the 99 & 00 models. However, I am unaware of anyone saying that it will fix a 2011 auto tranny. It may help, or may do nothing. Use the smaller bottle 15 oz size, not the larger size bottle.

 

Also, be aware that a tranny drain only drains out half the tranny fluid. The other half stays in the torque converter. So, often, a fill then drain of 3 times is done, with short drives between drain/fills, to thoroughly drain out old fluid.

 

Another thought.......your 2011 may have the ECVT trans axle, which is far different tranny, then the older style auto 4 speeds with torque converter. If so, it is unknown if Trans-X will fix an ECVT. Let us know if you have the ECVT, or the older style 4EAT auto tranny.



#302 Gloyale

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 10:56 AM

i would be delighted to learn that the PERMANENT fix is only 15? hours and a 3$ part.

 

Pull trans.

Remove torque converter

install new o-ring on turbine shaft

reinstall TC and install in car.

 

Man, oh man, I wish I could bill 15 hours for that.  more like 3 or 4.  And the O-ring is only $3.



#303 Fairtax4me

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 06:53 PM

Pull trans.
Remove torque converter
install new o-ring on turbine shaft
reinstall TC and install in car.
 
Man, oh man, I wish I could bill 15 hours for that.  more like 3 or 4.  And the O-ring is only $3.


That's the o-ring that causes this problem?!? Damn I wish I had known that about two years ago! Would have taken me all of 5 minutes to replace that on my friends Forester when I had the engine out to fix the separator plate leak. I thought it was stuffed back in the trans between the pump and the main case somewhere!

#304 presslab

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 02:46 PM

I doubt it's that o-ring on the input shaft...  That is fluid for the torque converter lock-up release circuit.
 
Most likely it's a bad outer seal on the forward clutch apply piston.
6.jpg
http://www.searchaut...ges-subaru-4eat

#305 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 04:47 PM

That makes more sense Presslab. Thanks for the link. Now the question is... How difficult is that to get to? Time to poke around in the FSM.

#306 presslab

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 05:15 PM

It's pretty much in the bowels of the trans.  To remove the forward drum everything needs to come apart except the valve body.  Might as well put new clutches in while it's apart, too.

 

No special tools needed though, except a gear puller and a 35mm socket.  The FSM has very good instructions.



#307 Fairtax4me

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:09 PM

Yeah that is pretty well buried in there. That link says there may also be shift flare symptoms associated with this o-ring failure. Before the last Trans-X treatment I did she had mentioned there were certain times the transmission felt like it would go into neutral, mostly at slower speeds when the transmission was cold. She said none of that has happened since the last Trans-X. I kind of figured maybe that was related, so its nice to know that the same seal also caused that problem. Of course that also means that one of these days the forward clutch is probably going to cook.

#308 SOBER0014

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:58 AM

Yeah that is pretty well buried in there. That link says there may also be shift flare symptoms associated with this o-ring failure. Before the last Trans-X treatment I did she had mentioned there were certain times the transmission felt like it would go into neutral, mostly at slower speeds when the transmission was cold. She said none of that has happened since the last Trans-X. I kind of figured maybe that was related, so its nice to know that the same seal also caused that problem. Of course that also means that one of these days the forward clutch is probably going to cook.

 

I wrote the original post here, and have kept track of its following over the years. The automatic trannys on 99 & 00 were equipped with some sort of a seal that gets lazy over time, causing delayed engagement of forward gears. (Subaru fixed this problem on later model cars) Trans-X works great to fix this problem on the 99 & 00 models. However, I am unaware of anyone saying that it will fix a 2011 auto tranny. It may help, or may do nothing. Use the smaller bottle 15 oz size, not the larger size bottle.

 

Also, be aware that a tranny drain only drains out half the tranny fluid. The other half stays in the torque converter. So, often, a fill then drain of 3 times is done, with short drives between drain/fills, to thoroughly drain out old fluid.

 

Another thought.......your 2011 may have the ECVT trans axle, which is far different tranny, then the older style auto 4 speeds with torque converter. If so, it is unknown if Trans-X will fix an ECVT. Let us know if you have the ECVT, or the older style 4EAT auto tranny.

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001.  My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed! 



#309 SOBER0014

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 12:00 PM

just bought my daughter a 2011 subaru outback wagon w/ 90k miles.  great car!  clean and all is good excetp.... it unfortunately, has the delayed shift into reverse and drive; moreso in drive.  the first day of owning the car i had the transmission serviced and it did NOT help.  just spoke with my personal mechanic, who i trust, who will be working on the car anyway to stop the exhaust rattling sound that makes the car sound like a piece of sh*t.  i told him about this forum and the trans x mix formula and he is going to drain and replace what was just put in there 3 weeks ago.  i sure hope i am one of those that can do the oh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhh  it's fixedddddddddddddddddd shout!  lol

 

will update once that service is completed next week and every now and then going forward

 

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001
My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans
fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that
service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful
rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed!



#310 brus brother

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 03:52 PM

Thank you!!!!   I made a HUGE typo.  My daughter's car is 2001.  My mechanic is going to follow your basic instructions for the trans fluid this weekend.  I am dropping the car off later today for that service and the new bracketing of the exhaust system to stop that awful rattling sound.  My fingers are crossed! 

As far as the heat shield rattles, many have had success with using
large hose clamps to add rigidity. Really low tech but non invasive.

I once complained when I brought my car in for service and they fixed it
by screwing a stainless screw through the heat shield into the exhaust. I
found that a bit aggressive and destructive... but it did work. On an
old 1991 Loyale,, an indie ripped the heat shields off and told me not
to drive over high grass. Is it something about Subies or do all cars with heat shields fail at the same rate?



#311 Fairtax4me

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 05:44 PM

Subarus are highly prone to heat shield rattle because the shields are just kinda clamped around the pipes. Most other cars have them welded or bolted on. After years of heating/cooling and some rust thrown in they get loose and start moving around.
I fix them with a 2-1/4" exhaust clamp.
Screws always fall out. The hose clamps don't always stay tight. Exhaust clamps are forever. At least, forever enough to last until the pipes rust out.

Edited by Fairtax4me, 03 July 2014 - 05:46 PM.


#312 CNY_Dave

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 06:02 PM

Stainless steel ty-wraps are a good bet if you are looking to buy something... I just use plain tie-wire, it l;asts a surprisingly long time.

(and it's C H E A P :) )



#313 robwis

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 10:57 AM

Hello everyone

 

Another satisfied Trans-X customer here, at least so far...

 

Have a 2000 Subaru Legacy OBW that I bought last Fall '13 with 120K.  When I purchased the car didn't seem to notice the delayed engagement problem at first, but by last Spring definitely got worse.  Usually had a 3-4 sec delay in engagement from R - D or N - D.  That was tolerable, but recently it also occasionally slipped out of D at a idle.

 

Started doing research on it and found this thread.  Drained ATF just once (the ATF that was in there didn't look too old so prior owner must have changed it somewhat recently), added Trans-X and about 4Q ATF.  Immediate notice a difference after just driving a few minutes.  

 

It's only been 2 weeks and probably 200 miles but the delayed engagement is down to 1-2 sec and haven't seen it slip once out of D at an idle.  

 

I will update this thread if I notice any problems but so far so good!

 

Thanks to Rooster2 and everyone else's input!

 

Rob



#314 Gloyale

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 11:23 AM

I doubt it's that o-ring on the input shaft...  That is fluid for the torque converter lock-up release circuit.
 
Most likely it's a bad outer seal on the forward clutch apply piston.
6.jpg
http://www.searchaut...ges-subaru-4eat

 

You can doubt it.  But that is what it is.

 

I have "fixed" 3 , '99 models and 1 2000 Forresters by simply replacing htat seal.  What happens is that pressure for TC gets dumped.....robbing pressure from the clutch plates for a moment......eventually the accumulator bottoms out and dumps full pressure.......and SLAM.....the forward movement begins.

 

The other contributor to this issue, to a lesser extend....is the small barrel shaped seal between the valve body and Brake band body.  That one is much harder to get to....but the ones I've done only one did I need to replace that seal.....the others were nearly fully corrected with just the input shaft seal.



#315 Rooster2

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 11:27 AM

Hello everyone

 

Another satisfied Trans-X customer here, at least so far...

 

Have a 2000 Subaru Legacy OBW that I bought last Fall '13 with 120K.  When I purchased the car didn't seem to notice the delayed engagement problem at first, but by last Spring definitely got worse.  Usually had a 3-4 sec delay in engagement from R - D or N - D.  That was tolerable, but recently it also occasionally slipped out of D at a idle.

 

Started doing research on it and found this thread.  Drained ATF just once (the ATF that was in there didn't look too old so prior owner must have changed it somewhat recently), added Trans-X and about 4Q ATF.  Immediate notice a difference after just driving a few minutes.  

 

It's only been 2 weeks and probably 200 miles but the delayed engagement is down to 1-2 sec and haven't seen it slip once out of D at an idle.  

 

I will update this thread if I notice any problems but so far so good!

 

Thanks to Rooster2 and everyone else's input!

 

Rob

 

Rob,

I wrote the original post on this subject prolly 5-6 years back. I still drive the same OBW, and continue to use Trans-X when needed. A treatment lasts about 1 year for me, but then I don't drive many miles per year. So, suppose the treatment lasts less time if more miles are driven. It has been my experience that the delay is only about 1 second after a Trans-X treatment. Also, seems to work best after 3 drains and fills, with new Trans-X added with last fill. The 3 drains and fills are needed, as only about half of the ATF can be drained at one time. The rest stays in the torque converter, and won't drain out.  It works out great that a drain pulls out 1 gallon and 1 pint, so refilling with 1 gallon of new ATF plus the one pint of Trans-X fills up the tranny to the proper level.

 

I am a bit concerned that your tranny is slipping out of Drive at idle. That is a different problem, that Trans-X can't fix. Don't have any advise to give you on that issue.

 

Regards,.....................................Rooster2



#316 robwis

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 12:02 PM

New user here. 2000 Outback with 125,000 miles. I'm thinking I have the same issue as everyone else. My Outback usually engages from P to D just fine, although it can be a bit harsh and slow when cold. Sometimes it takes a few seconds to kick in. What has been happening to me from time to time is when I pull up to a stop light or pull off of the freeway to a stop sign, it will sometimes slip out of drive and then just kick in kind of hard when I give it some gas.  

 

Hi Rooster2

 

Perhaps I should have been clearer in my post.  The beginning of this user's post is my exact problem also....Although he claims he didn't have any delayed engagement from P - D.  I had a 3-4 second delay in N, R, or P to D, but  I also had  the above problem occasionally...it would feel like it would slip out of D at a red light or stop sign, then when you hit the gas it would engage in D kind of hard...  It didn't happen very often, but just enough to be worried about.

 

Since I added the Trans-X the delayed engagement to D is down to 1-2 seconds and I haven't had a slippage out of D and a red light....but I don't know if that is just coincidence because it didn't happen that often to begin with.  I don't drive the car a lot (over the last year of ownership about 7K miles) so I guess only time will tell if Trans-X fixed that also.

 

Thanks


Edited by robwis, 22 September 2014 - 12:17 PM.


#317 Rooster2

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 06:53 PM

Hi Rooster2

 

Perhaps I should have been clearer in my post.  The beginning of this user's post is my exact problem also....Although he claims he didn't have any delayed engagement from P - D.  I had a 3-4 second delay in N, R, or P to D, but  I also had  the above problem occasionally...it would feel like it would slip out of D at a red light or stop sign, then when you hit the gas it would engage in D kind of hard...  It didn't happen very often, but just enough to be worried about.

 

Since I added the Trans-X the delayed engagement to D is down to 1-2 seconds and I haven't had a slippage out of D and a red light....but I don't know if that is just coincidence because it didn't happen that often to begin with.  I don't drive the car a lot (over the last year of ownership about 7K miles) so I guess only time will tell if Trans-X fixed that also.

 

Thanks

It is good that Trans-X has made things better. Keep your fingers crossed that the improvement will last.



#318 PENS87

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 10:46 AM

Hi All - New to this forum. Looking for input on this issue - Specifically whether to keep it or trade it. 2nd owner of a 2007 OBW Limited AT with 72K. Purchased a little over 3 years ago with 45K on the odometer. Had the external head gasket leak which I had the local dealership take care of (with some help from SOA! last Jan) otherwise has been good until this July. Started with the delayed engagement issue from either 'P' to 'D' or 'R' to 'D'. After reading extensively -- this forum was most informative - Fluid was not low but admittedly dirty. I did the drain x 2 -- replaced with Subaru ATF and Trans X ensuring proper levels. Problem has gone away but question for how long. I see Rooster2 gets about a year out of this 'fix' by swelling the seals so pressure can build & have read success from others but for how long? Don't see many long term reports other than Rooster2. Got a new Rex on the way but wouldn't mind making it more of a fair weather car if practical. Trying to determine if I should trade (or privately sell) the OBW while its still functioning well or keep it (worried that things will turn South). 

 

So, bottom line question - For those of you that have found this TransX 'treatment' to be effective, how long has it lasted you & does repeat drain and replace with fresh ATF & TransX get you going again if the tranny starts acting up again?

 

Thanks!



#319 Rooster2

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 12:45 PM

Hi All - New to this forum. Looking for input on this issue - Specifically whether to keep it or trade it. 2nd owner of a 2007 OBW Limited AT with 72K. Purchased a little over 3 years ago with 45K on the odometer. Had the external head gasket leak which I had the local dealership take care of (with some help from SOA! last Jan) otherwise has been good until this July. Started with the delayed engagement issue from either 'P' to 'D' or 'R' to 'D'. After reading extensively -- this forum was most informative - Fluid was not low but admittedly dirty. I did the drain x 2 -- replaced with Subaru ATF and Trans X ensuring proper levels. Problem has gone away but question for how long. I see Rooster2 gets about a year out of this 'fix' by swelling the seals so pressure can build & have read success from others but for how long? Don't see many long term reports other than Rooster2. Got a new Rex on the way but wouldn't mind making it more of a fair weather car if practical. Trying to determine if I should trade (or privately sell) the OBW while its still functioning well or keep it (worried that things will turn South). 

 

So, bottom line question - For those of you that have found this TransX 'treatment' to be effective, how long has it lasted you & does repeat drain and replace with fresh ATF & TransX get you going again if the tranny starts acting up again?

 

Thanks!

From Rooster2...............I don't know that there is any data on Trans-X being effective on a 2007 mode. This tread was written to correct a seal problem that affects only 99 and 00 model Subarus. After the 2000 model, Subaru corrected the seal to permanently correct the problem. Your problem may be caused by the dirty fluid only, and so changing the fluid has fixed the problem. Adding Trans-X may not help, but certainly could help, just hard to tell.

 

Subaru builds strong robust automatic transmissions that rarely break. My vote would be to hang on to the car. I doubt that the tranny will go south any time soon.

 

Rooster2



#320 PENS87

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 01:56 PM

From Rooster2...............I don't know that there is any data on Trans-X being effective on a 2007 mode. This tread was written to correct a seal problem that affects only 99 and 00 model Subarus. After the 2000 model, Subaru corrected the seal to permanently correct the problem. Your problem may be caused by the dirty fluid only, and so changing the fluid has fixed the problem. Adding Trans-X may not help, but certainly could help, just hard to tell.

 

Subaru builds strong robust automatic transmissions that rarely break. My vote would be to hang on to the car. I doubt that the tranny will go south any time soon.

 

Rooster2

I can say that after the first change (3.75 quarts), there was no improvement. After the second ATF change plus the Trans X, there was a noticeable improvement but I'll also say that the improvement wasn't appreciable until the next morning (despite taking the car out for a ride and cycling it through the gears many times). It is certainly possible that given the capacity of ATF (9.8 qts.), that 1 change wasn't sufficient but given the fact that after the second change there was a time period between the ATF change and noticeable improvement, I'm thinking a few hours were needed for seals to swell so the tranny could hold pressure. Not a scientifically controlled experiment by any means & as you indicated no data on the 2007 (though this may be the first). Based on my limited experience with this issue, I'm not convinced Subaru fixed this problem after 2000.

 

Any others with model years after 2000 have this problem (AT with delayed engagement into 'D')?

 

Definitely appreciate the reply - thanks for taking time to share your thoughts & opinion as to whether to keep or sell.



#321 porcupine73

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 03:01 PM

This was a graphic I put together from an aftermarket transmission rebuilder bulletin.

4eat-shrinking-seal-lg.jpg

My '00 Outback never developed the slow to engage to drive issue up to 200k miles thankfully, but unfortunately a bearing or something in the front diff I think is going to be its demise.




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