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I believe it's just a 12 point 14mm - atleast that's what I've used on a 2.5 and a 2.2.

 

I find they break loose better by hand with a breaker bar and cheater (if necessary). Engine needs to be on a stand - can't just have it hanging. They creak and it sounds like they are gonna snap off.

 

I have used an electric impact gun on scrap engines. For some reason for me the electric is better then either of my 1/2 air impacts at 155 PSI. I use it for crank and cam bolts as well.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

Dave

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They get really tight. I use a 2 foot bar to break them loose. You really have to lean into it. They will make a snapping noise a few times then get loose. My compressor doesn't have enough psi to break them loose with an air gun, that's how tight they are.

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I've used impact on head blots all the time never had a problem. Sometimes if you get them to move by going in the tighting direction they break free also. That would be by hand not impact. You can use the impact to run them out only too.

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I did mine on a stand, with the head turned vertical, used a 1/2 breaker bar, 12 pt 14mm socket, with a cheater pipe (about 2ft long). I just used nice steady pressure and they came off. They did make a racket though!

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The bolts are a beast to break loose. My mechanic and I checked the torque while replacing a 2.5 head and it was up near 90 ft-lbs. I uesd a 36" breaker bar and had someone hold the engine from moving. They came loose, but we still had a job getting them to move. I hesitate to recommend the use of an impact gun. You want to take the bolts out incrementaly so that you don't warp the head. Loosen one and then another, but not too loose at first. Remove them in reverse order of the bolting on pattern.

 

Just use a cheater bar and not the impact gun. The gun may also cause damage to the bolt head if it slips even alittle bit. There is less chance of this with a breaker bar.

 

Good luck

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