Snowman Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 1988 SPFI 4wd wagon Started doing this intermittantly, but now all the time. It refuses to crank by turning the key. I can turn it to the "start" position, and something clicks about once every second, but no cranking whatsoever. I can get it to start just fine by jumping a wire from the starter motor positive to the solenoid positive, but that's the only way it will start. If I wasn't selling the car, I would just put in a pushbutton switch directly providing current to the solenoid, but that's not really an option because it would decrease the value of the car. What could be going on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 All the wiring diagrams I've looked at show pretty much nothing between the ign. switch and the starter.... should be pretty easy to trace down with a MM - you have a manual with wiring diagrams? Start tracing that wiring..... could be the switch itself. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 SM, this problem is fairly common, esp this time of year. I will assume the car is a manual shift or the nuetral start switch if automatic is functioning as you say it clicks. I have had three Roo's of this vintage do exactly what you say. The ignition switch contacts get burned and do not pass enough current to totally close the starter solenoid. All three have been fixed by adding a relay controled by the ignition switch starter contacts. The relay is wired in at the starter solenoid and is very hard to see. Any 12v lighting relay can be used. Here is a wiring diagram if you would like to give this a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted December 31, 2003 Share Posted December 31, 2003 Awsome - I'll file that one away for future reference. Sounds like it could be the switch like I thought. I remembered when I addressed a similar issue with my Brat that all the diagrams I could find showed an extremely simple start circuit. I think if I were to do this, and was going to be wireing anyway, I would also figure out a starter lockout circuit into the system to keep people (or myself!) from running the starter while the engine was running. Probably could hook it to the oil-pressure idiot light if so equipped.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowman Posted January 1, 2004 Author Share Posted January 1, 2004 Thanks guys. Awesome diagram Skip. I tested the power to the solenoid and was getting about .25 volts. Definitely not enough to activate the starter. Right now I just spliced a new wire going to the solenoid straight from the hot wire coming from the ignition "start" position. No relay or anything. Is this going to be bad? It starts just fine, but could it cause problems down the road by either frying something or sucking so much power so that other things don't get enough juice? I don't think the solenoid uses that much power, but maybe I'm wrong, and the wire I tapped into was quite beefy (probably 10 gauge). It also would appear that it was originally set up without a relay. I may be selling the car tomorrow, so I need to get this worked out pretty quickly. So, do I need a relay, or is it okay like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 SM, what color is this wire? Blue? Sure sounds like a "new fix" to me. All mine have been working fine (for over a year in two cases) But I am always up for new fixes. Sorry I can not be of more help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 The relay is mostly the best permanent fix, but you might also check the connector on the cable coming from the ignition switch. the first plastic connector coming out of the ignition switch has one wire for the starter solenoid. On the older cars this connection goes bad and starts to heat up and drops voltage there instead of at the solenoid. You can often see that since the plastic connector turns brown from the heat generated at the connection. Either replace the ignition switch and cable with a newer one from the wrecking yard or splice a wire (heavy guage at least #12 or #10) around the faulty joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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