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H.I.D. Lights on Loyale - Yes or Not? ... Why?


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#51 daeron

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Posted 07 July 2008 - 04:44 PM

Make sure you check the "Battery" connection on the back of the alternator, too. That is the large positive cable attached with a nut, not one of the two wires in the T-plug. The T-plug wires should be tight as well. I know here in the US I can go to a parts store and buy a new T plug with wires in it to splice onto my harness.

Have you considered trying a larger alternator? 87-90 (roughly) Nissan Maximas came with a 90 amp alternator that you need to change the pulley on (it has a ribbed pulley and you need a V-belt) and you need to cut the plug off of the Maxima, because it doesn't use a T-plug it uses a different shape.

You SHOULDN'T need a higher amperage alternator... but it never hurts.

BTW, again, I'm sorry to have been so insistent that something must be wrong with your wiring.. I must be mistaken when I see your photos and compare them to my own lights. I guess it is a photo thing.

#52 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 08 July 2008 - 11:14 PM

Thank you for your Kind Replies! :)

Make sure you check the "Battery" connection on the back of the alternator, too. ...


Yes, it is Fine, I did Changed it with a New (Better) one, back in 2004.

... The T-plug wires should be tight as well. ...


That "T" Plug is the one I`ve Writed about above, the one that is Loosen...

... I know here in the US I can go to a parts store and buy a new T plug with wires in it to splice onto my harness. ...


...here I only found the Plug, but without the Plastic Locking part that the original one got above; the part that Hooks into the Alternator; that`s Why I didn`t Changed it Yet; I Hope I could find The Right plug soon, but being at work I had not much spare time left untill Saturday...

... Have you considered trying a larger alternator? 87-90 (roughly) Nissan Maximas came with a 90 amp alternator that you need to change the pulley on (it has a ribbed pulley and you need a V-belt) and you need to cut the plug off of the Maxima, because it doesn't use a T-plug it uses a different shape.

You SHOULDN'T need a higher amperage alternator... but it never hurts.

...


Yes! ... I Didn`t knew that Nissan Sentra`s will work there too, I just heard about Saturns` Alternators on EA82`s but with some modifications on their Surrounding structure...

Could you give me more Info about that Nissan`s Alternator Swap? ... Any Thread about? ... Thanx!

... I'm sorry to have been so insistent that something must be wrong with your wiring.. I must be mistaken when I see your photos and compare them to my own lights. I guess it is a photo thing.


No Problem, I didn`t Notice that my Subie`s Lights was getting the Behavior of Starting very Bright and then Slowly going Darker... (I Guess my eyes did adapt to their slowly intensity change) ...Until last Weekend, when the Driver`s Side HeadLamp and the Dashboard went off.

I Didn`t fix anything yet, `cos I Didn`t found the Right Replacement for the "T" Plug, as I Said; that is just my "Starting" Point to seach how to fix the Problem. if Changing that Plug doesn`t Fix the Situation, Next I Will Search for Loosen Wires Inside the Car, searching for Loosen / Bad Relays. (Outside Wires are O.K.)

Did anyone has that problem Before? ... Any Idea? ... Where -exactly- are Located the Main Headlamps` Lights Relays? ... and How are Them?

Any Idea will be great Appreciated!

Thank you! :burnout:

#53 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 July 2008 - 10:58 PM

...I Didn`t found the Right Replacement for the "T" Plug ...


But I Did Try with it: I`ve Changed the "T" Plug about one Hour Ago, then I Did a Li`l Trip and the Light Problems keeps happening, so the "T" Plug wasn`t the Cause.

I Noticed that one Wires` Harness under the Steering Column is gettin a Li`l Bit Hot with Lights On. is that Normal?

I Think that one of the Lights`s Relay is bad.

Could you tell me where -exactly- is located those Lights Relays and any other Helping Idea, Please?

Thank you.

#54 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 12:21 AM

Today`s Night the Problem Happened Again... :-\ ...and I Decided to don`t Panic and Leave the Lights Switch ON for a While and See What Happens...

After two Minutes or So without Dash`s Lights and Driver`s HeadLamp, they Returned ON Again like Nothing Happened, the UnderSteering Wires` Harness was Warm.

Lights Failed again in about one Minute...

I Think that Something -like a Relay- is Poorly Working, loosen or Damaged and needs to be Replaced.

I Hope by Saturday I`ll get enough spare Time to Open the Under Steering Area and look for those Lights Relays...

#55 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 12:24 AM

I Think that one of the Lights`s Relay is bad.

Could you tell me where -exactly- is located those Lights Relays and any other Helping Idea, Please?

Thank you.


I don't know if the relay is at fault here but it's definitely something to check into.

Is your wagon left hand drive or right? It should be under the steering column if it's LHD like the US. Otherwise I'm not sure if it's RHD.

I would unplug the relays one at a time till you find the two for the headlights and then swap them with each other. If the problem changes sides then you have a bad relay.

GD

#56 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 08:09 PM

Thank you for Answering! :)

Here, Cars are "Left Handed"... I Mean Left Hand Drive (just like U.S.A. and the rest of the Continental America, in Fact, my White Wagon did came New, Running from U.S.A. to Here in 1985; is California Version.)

... I would unplug the relays one at a time till you find the two for the headlights and then swap them with each other. If the problem changes sides then you have a bad relay. ...


Yes, it is a Great Idea! ... I Was Thinking something alike ... I`ll Try it Tomorrow Morning.

Wish me Luck! :burnout:

Specially to Find the Right Replacement Here

#57 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 11:28 PM

Specially to Find the Right Replacement Here


Yeah - if you can't I'm sure we can come up with some and send you half a dozen. I'm sure I have a few from the SPFI harnesses I've stripped out.

GD

#58 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 12 July 2008 - 02:39 PM

Thank You GD, You`re So Kind! :)

Right Now I`ll Start Searchin` for the Lights Relay! :burnout:

#59 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 12 July 2008 - 07:33 PM

I Found It !!!


Posted Image


I Removed the Plastic covers under the Dash (Over the Pedals) and Removed the Whole Fuses Box; Searchin` there, between the Wires` "Spaghetti", I Found two Things:

- The First one: the Under Steerin` Computer -Yes, the one that is supposed to Have a "Blinkin` Red LED Light" Flashing Diagnostic Codes- isn`t Blinkin` Anymore! :eek:

- The Second One: Lookin` Up, behind the SunGlasses` Case, Up from the Fuses Box, I Found Three Round Relays.

Each one had the Nippon Denso Logo (ND) and got Four Pins, its Number is 056700-5260 Those are "Standard" in our Loyales... 12V / 22A ...Also they say 6E14, and got the Graphic Drawing of the Pins 1 to 2 as Straight (Power Line) and 3 to 4 Switch (Control Line).

Some time ago, I did have an electrical Problem with the Air Conditioneer in my Subie. A/C is Extremly Needed here, not for the Hot / Sunny Weathers, I don`t have problems with Weathers, Hot, Cool, Rainy, or any climate at all... A/C is Needed to Keep the Main Windshield Glass Clean During Rain While Driving; so A/C Here is more Used for Safety, so I Keep my White Wagon`s A/C in Good Workin` Condition.

Then, I Replaced the Main A/C Relay (Identical to This One) with a Bosch Standard One, and it is Still Workin` Fine. Also I Replaced the Two A/C Relays Located outside, Near the Engine, Down the Windshield, with Bosch`s ones. Some Time Ago, I`ve Replaced with a Bosch Standard one, the Electric Windows` Relay too. Great Solution!

Bosch Realays are more Capable (30 or 40 Amps; the ND is just 22) and they are Easy to find here, almost in any Parts Store, so they become an Easy Fix in the Future if they Fail. So I Think that I`ll Swap there Bosch Relays instead to Just Change the Bad one, it Needs to Cut the Subies Original Plug, and Weld a PreWired Standard Relay`s Plug.

Let me Explain the Wagon`s Lights Relays Behavior, it may Help anyone with similar situations:

I Found Four Relays in that Area, one (Hangin` Around) is the A/C Relay that I`ve Changed Before with a Bosch one. Then Lookin` Up, behind the SunGlasses` Case, Up from the Fuses Box, I Found Three Round Relays, as I Said, they are Hold by a Metallic Hanger, just like the one that Holds the Fuel Filter near the Gas Tank.

One Relay at the Left with Thick Wires (Black & Black with Yellow Stripe) one Relay at the Right exact to the Other One, and in the Middle, between `em, is Another Relay, Identical to the others, but with Thinner Green Wires.

The Left and the Right ones with Black Thick wires, are the HeadLamp`s Relays, one for each one -at this time, I Don`t know what does the Green Wired one at the Center-

I Did Started the Engine, then the Main Lights, everything is Workin` Fine... I Disconnect one of the HeadLights` Relays, the Left HeadLamp Goes -Almost- Off, Along with the DashBoard`s Lights (That is the Problem my Subie`s Having) and if I Disconnect the Other one, the Right HeadLamp Goes -Almost- Off, Along with the Blue Indicator of High Beams at the Dash.

So it is a Bad Relay Problem, I will Search for a Pair of Standard Relay`s Plugs that came Already Wired, I`ll Weld the Subie`s Wires to `em, and Put in Bosch -or Flösser Brand- Fresh Relays, and see if the Problem Goes. (I`ll Post Pics, they may Help Someone)

I Have another Question for Now: is it "Normal" that the UnderSteerin` Computer isn`t Blinkin` Light Anymore? :confused:

Thank you for your Patience Reading this Long Post, and for your Kind Help.

Best Regards!

JesZeK :burnout:

#60 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 11:38 PM

Good News:..:banana: ...The Problem is Fixed!!!


Last Sunday I`ve Changed Both HeadLamps` Relays. I Was Searchin` for Information about How to Do That, but Since I Have did it Before (With the A/C & Power Windows Relays) Long Time Ago, I Did it.

I Didn`t Found any Info about, so I Did a Huge Write Up about All the Relay`s Understanding & Procedures, Fully Loaded with Pictures & Drawings to make it Easy to Understand & to Do; I Think it may Help Anyone with Relay / Electrical Problems in their Subies.

It is Located at the USRM Pending Approval... for now it is the Link:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=90403


That`s How I`ve Fixed the Relay`s Problem... I Have Made Another Write Ups to the USRM, but this one is Enterely Made Yesterday, in "Real Time" Getting the Pics While Working.

Now my Subie`s Lights are Very Brilliant (Like a New Car) and I Checked the UnderSteerin` Computer`s Behavior: its Red Led Light Stops Blinking with Engine Running, it Just Blinks Before Start the Engine. I Guess it is "Normal" `cos Everything is Workin` Fine.

I`ve Noticed that the Subie`s Original Relays (When they was Working Properly) are Permanently Warm While Car is On (Runnin` Engine or just Key in ON Position) so the New Bosch ones do that Too. I Guess it is Normal, `cos Those Relays Engage when Key is in ON Position, even with the Lights` Main Switch Off.

I Hope the Relay`s Swap Write Up might be Helpful... :burnout:

#61 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 14 July 2008 - 11:49 PM

Well...

After the Relay`s Swap, and Lights Workin` Properly; I am Still Curious about to Know How is the Experience that other Loyale Drivers Have with H.I.D.`s ...

Some USMB Members Have Done that Swap some Time Ago... I`ll Like to Know their Experience Driving with H.I.D.`s During all this Time...

Thanx! :burnout:

#62 daeron

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 02:05 AM

Great to hear you fixed your issue! I agree on replacing the ND relays with Bosch style ones, even here in the US they are far far easier to get for cheaper. They have become something of an automotive standard replacement part, and are commonly available from other manufacturers eve. It is actually less than easy to find a bosch four pin relay new in a store, but rather simple to find a cheap chinese knockoff that is a direct replacement.

A question, now that you just worked with all the wiring. Can you answer the question of whether the wiring is capable of safely handling the load of both high and low beam filaments for an extended period of time? If the wiring should safely handle all that load, then you might want to experiment with re-switching things to have both filaments energized when the "hi-beams" are on. The only potential problem other than wiring overload was the possibility that it would burn out bulbs quickly. I would suggest trying this change, and getting a couple of spare bulbs to carry in the car. It DOES roughly double the amount of light you put on the road. I always feel like I can see EVERYTHING when I hold both on.

#63 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 01:36 AM

... A question, now that you just worked with all the wiring. Can you answer the question of whether the wiring is capable of safely handling the load of both high and low beam filaments for an extended period of time? ...


I Think that the Wires are Capable to do That, Remember that they send Only one Live Wire (+) to the Bulbs, the High / Low Beam Switch only chooses which Groung (-) is on.

But I Believe that it not Only will lead to Burn Bulbs Twice Faster... I Believe it may lead to Other Problems, Sooner or Later, due to Bulbs`s Heat.

At Least in Theory: a Twin Filament Bulb which is Not Designed to use Both at the Same Time, If they`re On Simultaneously, it will Increase the Bulb`s Heat and That Heat will Travel from the Bulb to its Base and the Inmediate Wires... so it Might Melt the Bulb`s Base (I Guess it on Prologed Periods, like a Night Travel of more than an Hour) and the Bulb`s Plug & Wires; Then Like a Domino`s Effect: if the Bulb`s Base Melts, Moisture can get Inside the HeadLamp... And if the Wires` Plastic Cover Melts (I Think it is very Difficult to Happen, but its Possible) a Short Circuit can Happen... if the Bulb don`t Explode First... :eek: ...

So I Believe the Problem with it, is the Bulb`s and its Plug & Nearby Wires Capabilities to Handle Around Twice Wattage & Heat.

I Think It might be a Good Idea for Very Short Time Use Only.

#64 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 03:01 AM

... Have you considered trying a larger alternator? 87-90 (roughly) Nissan Maximas came with a 90 amp alternator that you need to change the pulley on (it has a ribbed pulley and you need a V-belt) and you need to cut the plug off of the Maxima, because it doesn't use a T-plug it uses a different shape. ...


Do you Have more Info About That? ... Procedures, Pics, etc? ... Thanx! :)

#65 DaveT

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 10:40 PM

UnderSteerin` Computer`s Behavior: its Red Led Light Stops Blinking with Engine Running, it Just Blinks Before Start the Engine. I Guess it is "Normal" `cos Everything is Workin` Fine.[/COLOR][/SIZE]

I`ve Noticed that the Subie`s Original Relays (When they was Working Properly) are Permanently Warm While Car is On (Runnin` Engine or just Key in ON Position) so the New Bosch ones do that Too. I Guess it is Normal,



The LED is behaving normally for no trouble codes.

It is normal for relays to be warm when energized. The coil uses about 2 watts + or -. 10 amps flowing through the contacts to the headlamps might add a little also.

I would not run Hi & Lo beams together on the stock harness. The common wire on the lamp isn't sized for the higher current. I built a system for my 1976 that ran 4 Hi/Lo headlamps, with relays, switches and heavy wire to select various combinations of "presets", including *all* filaments on for high beams. 460Watts of H4 quartz halogen brightness. :grin: None of the current went through existing stock wiring.

#66 daeron

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Posted 17 July 2008 - 03:07 PM

I Think that the Wires are Capable to do That, Remember that they send Only one Live Wire (+) to the Bulbs, the High / Low Beam Switch only chooses which Groung (-) is on.

But I Believe that it not Only will lead to Burn Bulbs Twice Faster... I Believe it may lead to Other Problems, Sooner or Later, due to Bulbs`s Heat.

At Least in Theory: a Twin Filament Bulb which is Not Designed to use Both at the Same Time, If they`re On Simultaneously, it will Increase the Bulb`s Heat and That Heat will Travel from the Bulb to its Base and the Inmediate Wires... so it Might Melt the Bulb`s Base (I Guess it on Prologed Periods, like a Night Travel of more than an Hour) and the Bulb`s Plug & Wires; Then Like a Domino`s Effect: if the Bulb`s Base Melts, Moisture can get Inside the HeadLamp... And if the Wires` Plastic Cover Melts (I Think it is very Difficult to Happen, but its Possible) a Short Circuit can Happen... if the Bulb don`t Explode First... :eek: ...

So I Believe the Problem with it, is the Bulb`s and its Plug & Nearby Wires Capabilities to Handle Around Twice Wattage & Heat.

I Think It might be a Good Idea for Very Short Time Use Only.


After each of the three hurricanes that hit our town in 2004-05, my landlord and I survived off of 12VDC. We had a few old computer UPSs that we would use to run the TV and VCR for a movie or something, but all lighting and ventilation was provided by a couple of car batteries and his Buick. We had two radiator fans that we used to keep fresh air moving through the house, and a slew of PC fans that were used for low-volume fresh air in my bedroom and the bathroom. (he didn't seem to think it was worth it for his bedroom)

I bring all this up because we used two headlight bulbs like the ones in the Subaru. I cannot recall the specific bulb number, but they had two filaments each. We powered both, or one at a time, and got three different light levels (and battery drains) as a result. We frequently used one on high power for times up to 30, 60 minutes without ever having a problem with heat and a bare bulb.

So, AT LEAST in an open-air situation, the bulb can deal with the heat of bot filaments. The rest of the questions are valid points, and I just want someone to try it before I do :lol:

The alternator swap was a breeze, and there are only two complications:

First, the pulley on the Maxima is a serpentine, groove-belt type and it needs to be swapped. I found a shop in my town (only ONE) that happened to have enough spare alternator parts laying around to set me up with a properly spaced V belt pulley. The one I wound up using was one piece, but the one on the stock hitachi alternator is usually a pair of "dishes" and a spacer or two. I couldn't use the pieces off of my alternator on the Maxima one; I can't remember if they simply did not space it properly or if they would not fit on the shaft. In the end, some trial and error should get you with the right pulley/spacer combination.

Second, the plug on the Maxima is different, it does not have a T-plug. I never wired mine in properly, I just cut that little harness out of the maxima and put male terminals on the wires to plug into my car's T-plug. This way I can always have my stock alternator in my trunk for a spare. The only trick to hooking it up right is simple: Big wire in T-plug, to big wire in Maxima plug, and little wire to little wire. :clap:

I will take some pictures when I find my camera.

#67 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 July 2008 - 09:39 AM

... I will take some pictures when I find my camera.


Thank You! :)

#68 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 18 July 2008 - 01:17 PM

alrighty.. this thread convinced me to change out all my relays as well.

I think the 'unknown' relay in your pictures may be for the rear defroster.

If you look on ebay for 'bosch relay' you can find them in a 10 pack (with harnesses) for $25 shipped.

-Dave

#69 McDave

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Posted 18 July 2008 - 01:28 PM

alrighty.. this thread convinced me to change out all my relays as well.

I think the 'unknown' relay in your pictures may be for the rear defroster.

If you look on ebay for 'bosch relay' you can find them in a 10 pack (with harnesses) for $25 shipped.

-Dave

Make sure they're actually Bosch relays. All the 10 packs I saw were "Bosch Style", ie cheap Chinese imitations.

#70 Carmen

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Posted 18 July 2008 - 02:09 PM

oh my god, how i hate chinese parts. is like buying a problem

#71 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 04 September 2008 - 08:44 PM

Well... Last Night I Was Driving late my White Wagon, Slow Rainy Weather, etc... Here in my Country, we got Very Bad Roads, and during the Rainy Weather, some "New" Potholes appear...

So, Many Cars with Stock H.I.D. and Aftermarket Kits, and some with Extra Halogens, trend to null the other Drivers Visibility... I Mean my Subie`s Lights seems to be so Poor, so I Drove very Slow and then, after an incoming car passed, it was another Huge Pothole (Like Moon Crater, Remember this Thread? http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=73725 ) In Front of my Subie ... :eek: ...I Just did a Fast Steering Turn to the Right and Drove Around that PotHole...

I Still Think that my Subies Need Better Lights to have Safer Driving. The UnderBumper Halogens are the Salvation... for Now, but High Quality 100W Halogen Bulbs are coming Scarse here, and Lots of Bad Chinese Brands are in the Market...

...and I am Tired of Change the UnderBumper Halogens` Bulbs every two or Three Trips (Around each Month) I Miss those Great Quality Flösser Halogen Bulbs...

#72 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 02:58 AM

Long time have been Passed... the Server Went Down and Many Things Happened since then...

I have Researched too much About the H.I.D. Kits for Halogen Lamps.

I have Test Drive some Friend`s Cars, with Different H.I.D. Kits on their Halogens, and I Found that Those Cheap Chinese Bad Quality Kits, just have one Beam, they have many Hot Spots, they Blind the incoming Traffic, and their Blueish Light trend to Dissapear under Wet Road Driving... Too Bad!

I Told to my Friend, who has the H.I.D. that he wanted to give me, to keep it for Him... :-\ ... "No, Thanks!"

So, they are a Bad Idea...

Well... Not All! Let me Explain:

Searching Deeply, I Found a Place Called "Retro Solutions" where they offer the only H.I.D. Kit that Has not Glare, nor Hot Spots, and is Designed to Avoid Blinding the incoming Traffic, Also it is the More Powerful kit on the Market and its Light is not any Blueish.

How it Works? ... The H.I.D. Bulb got an Electro Magnetic System that Moves the Bulb, so you Keep the Low and the High Beam Function from your Car... Exactly as it came Factory!

in Low Beam, it Does Not Reaches too High, so it Avoid Blinding the incoming Drivers; Also their Bulb is Well Designed to Keep the Original Halongen Lamp`s Spread Light Pattern -Spectrum- So it "Feels" like Original Equipment. in High Beam is like Driving in DayLight! :eek:

So I Obtained a Great H.I.D. Kit from Them... I Already installed it on my EA82 Wagon (Recently Painted in Yellow like my Other Wagon) and I Won`t Go Back Anymore to Halogens! ... I Will Post Pictures of my subie with H.I.D.`s as Soon as I Can, I Have not had enough spare time since some Time Ago...

This Pictures are from the Retro Solutions` Servers, This one Shows the Colour Temp in K degrees:

Posted Image

This one, Shows the Kit, that Comes in an Aluminum Briefcase!

Posted Image

This ones Gives an Idea of their Deffined ilumination Pattern with No Glare:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image


I Hope I Can Post Pics of My Subie Soon.



#73 nipper

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 10:20 AM

Stiull a waste of money. HID uses a specially designed reflector and lense for a real HID bulb.

But you are correct on your findings. And here in the USA if an officer holds up a white peice of papaer and he sees any blue, you get a ticket for illegal headlights.


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#74 Virrdog

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Posted 09 December 2008 - 06:48 PM

The thing about the moving ones is that there no way for the bulb to no where it was, so to speak, the last time. So they will be in a slightly different position each time. Hardly an ideal situation.

And there is absolutely nothing in the ECE regs about bulbs that can move themselves. It always the housing itself with self leveling and servo motors that can go back to the exact same spot to be properly aimed. Otherwise movement is not allowed.


I just hope you stay safe on the dark roads, though. :)

#75 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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  • Roatán, Honduras.

Posted 09 December 2008 - 08:11 PM

...I just hope you stay safe on the dark roads, though. :)


Believe me: I Have Never been Safer Before!...

I Really was Thinking that the H.I.D. was Bad Idea, Untill I Found this Special Kit. The Bulbs Moves Up and Down to the Same Position Always, Because it has a Permanent Magnet Down, that Holds the Bulb in Low Beam Position when you have the Stick in Low Beam, Without any electricity, but when you Switch the Stick to High Beams, an Electro Magnet receives Electricity and since it is more Powerful than the Permanent one, it Pulls the Bulb Up to the High Beams; Both Magnets Holds the Bulb very Tight and the Light Pattern is Always the Same.

Believe me: The Light Spread with those H.I.D.`s are Almost Equal -the same- that the Subie Has with the Standard Halogens, But it seems to be like 500% more Powerfull and Whiter.

I Will Take some Pictures of my Subie and the Light Pattern / Movement from Low to High Beams, and Post them here as Soon as I Can.

If you Still Do Not Believe me, you can ask another Board Member, My Friend Mark (SUPERU) who came to Honduras last November and came with me for a Night Ride in my Subaru, with the H.I.D.`s :burnout:




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