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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Help it's frozen.


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15 replies to this topic

#1 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 12:13 PM

So I did all my searching.
Found all the info I could on it here.
I have a rear axle that is frozen on to the axle stub at the wheel side of my EA81.

Tried heat.
Tried soaking for days with PB Blaster.
Tried a 5 pound sledge and a piece if 1" steel pipe. (I destroyed the pipe)
4 ft pry bar.
Even rigged up a slide hammer to hold onto it.

Nothing.

And yes I did remember to pull the pin out. :lol:

Is there maybe one more thing I could try that I'm missing?
I really don't want to spend the $$ on new parts. (by having to cut it off or something)
That would cut into my wheeling gas $$. And defeat the purpose of getting it apart so I can drive longer distances to the trails.

I have one of those air chisels. I could put a blunt bit in it and see if the fast hammering breaks it free....

#2 ferox

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 01:30 PM

I have a rear axle that is frozen on to the axle stub at the wheel side of my EA81.

And yes I did remember to pull the pin out.


I don't follow you. Is it frozen at the diff. or spindle to hub?

#3 3eyedwagon

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 01:34 PM

When I bought my car, the rear CV was frozen on. The best remedy I've found is lightly tapping a golf tee into the downhill side of the roll pin hole, and then filling the uphill side with whatever your preferred penetrating oil is. PB, and AeroKroil are both pretty good. If you have just been soaking the roll pin hole, the oil hasn't really had a chance to creep back onto the splines. Plugging that hole with a golf tee gives it nowhere else to go.

As far as removing an axle for street manners, I don't think any of us north enders do. At least nobody I know. I've driven as far as Reiter with a welded rear. That's two, and a half hours. Once I got my rear CV geometry correct, I've had no issues on the street. The only wear I feel is from super tight turns, as might be made in the grocery store parking lot, and you learn quickly how to sidestep those maneuvers. Just learn to swing her a little wider, and listen to when things are really binding.

The simple fact is that you are going to put more stress on those axles in the first mile of tight twisty trails than you did on the fifty mile highway drive there.

#4 bigjim5551212

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 02:49 PM

much heat from a torch will sometimes help. maybe if you can dismantle the whole thing, suspension and the shaft from the diff, you can take it out, then you dont have to worry about the rubber parts soaking up the impacts

#5 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 03:33 PM

I don't follow you. Is it frozen at the diff. or spindle to hub?


It's the end out at the wheel/hub.
The diff side came of with only a little prying.
The driver's side came out no problem. But we all know that you have to drop the diff some to get the clearance to pull it all the way off the shaft. Kind of a pain on the trail.

hehe. I'm just having one of those days/weeks. Seems stuff non Soob related is going wrong today as well.
Even little stuff like getting a new garden hose.... has a hole in it gotta go back to the store.

Such is life. :)

I think 3eyedwagon has the idea I'm gonna go with. Which was my original plan. Or just throw the open diff back in and leave any and all hassel for another time.

#6 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 03:38 PM

When I bought my car, the rear CV was frozen on. The best remedy I've found is lightly tapping a golf tee into the downhill side of the roll pin hole, and then filling the uphill side with whatever your preferred penetrating oil is. PB, and AeroKroil are both pretty good. If you have just been soaking the roll pin hole, the oil hasn't really had a chance to creep back onto the splines. Plugging that hole with a golf tee gives it nowhere else to go.

As far as removing an axle for street manners, I don't think any of us north enders do. At least nobody I know. I've driven as far as Reiter with a welded rear. That's two, and a half hours. Once I got my rear CV geometry correct, I've had no issues on the street. The only wear I feel is from super tight turns, as might be made in the grocery store parking lot, and you learn quickly how to sidestep those maneuvers. Just learn to swing her a little wider, and listen to when things are really binding.

The simple fact is that you are going to put more stress on those axles in the first mile of tight twisty trails than you did on the fifty mile highway drive there.


I'll try the idea of plugging one end and filling it. (Why didn't I think of that! :) )

If not I think you are right. It should be fine, after all I have smaller tires than most that are welded up anyway. I'm just trying to save some tire wear is all. In the few trips I've had it out I've already learned to set myself up for wider turns on the street. So that will be an easy habit to get used to.

Thanks.

#7 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 03:45 PM

much heat from a torch will sometimes help. maybe if you can dismantle the whole thing, suspension and the shaft from the diff, you can take it out, then you dont have to worry about the rubber parts soaking up the impacts


Yeah I don't have cylinders right now for my torch set.
And I don't think the little propane job I tried could put enough heat in one spot fast enough. I figured it was worth a try though.

If I'd get off my butt and complete my torch set this would proly not be a problem. :lol:
Proly should have done that when I still worked at a shop repairing torches and regulators. (How I got my set so far for free. Just fixed up some junk and the owner let me take it home. :) )

#8 ferox

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 04:58 PM

If you go so far as to dismantle the thing and pull it from the car you're welcome to bring it out to my place and throw it in the shop press. I also have a fairly large puller, but it may not be big enough. Last time we talked you mentioned you were getting a wire feed welder...you could rig up a hydraulic puller with a small bottle jack. Some thoughts anyway

#9 michael appel

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 06:12 PM

If you want to bring it by my house and I will get it off for you. You need a 1 inch punch, I destroyed a pipe also.

and the 5 pound sledge was a good idea it took almost 45 minutes to get it off between 3 people beating the hell out of it

#10 michael appel

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 06:13 PM

I also have a 60 ton press

#11 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 06:18 PM

Thanks guys. :)

I'll keep dinking with it here for awhile.
Got it plugged and soaking like was mentioned above while I go about other business.

If all else fails I'll have to just pull some apart and haul it to bigger tools.

#12 TeamCF

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 09:27 PM

I just put the open diff back in.
After much going back and forth I decided I go out into the woods to roll around in my Subaru, not work on it.
I can do that at home.
And my luck, I'll be the guy throwing axles at the thing every time I go out.
And the traction was cool, but to me not worth it.

So once I can find an LSD for a good price I'll have a welded diff up for sale. (just in case I come up with umlimited time and $$ to support my welded diff)

Thanks for the help and offers of help though. :)

#13 michael appel

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Posted 27 June 2008 - 11:11 PM

Well LSD will only break axles it only causes more stress to the axles that is why I went with the welded. I took out my axle and drive around just fine. I was frustrated to but all you need is a friend who can help you break those things loose.

But in your defense I am sorry you had to endure the pain of axles but both of mine didnt want to come off and it took a weekend and three guys to get them off.

#14 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 12:44 AM

You just didn't use enough heat fast enough. You have to get a LOT of heat to the cup before it soaks into the stub. Borrow or rent an oxy-torch. Use a #2 cutting tip and just use the preheat flame. Should be plenty of heat to expand the cup and get it off the splines.

GD

#15 TeamCF

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 01:32 AM

You just didn't use enough heat fast enough. You have to get a LOT of heat to the cup before it soaks into the stub. Borrow or rent an oxy-torch. Use a #2 cutting tip and just use the preheat flame. Should be plenty of heat to expand the cup and get it off the splines.

GD


Yeah I have the torches. And a #2 tip.
Just gotta get some cylinders. I moved out here from MI before getting them and figured it was best as I didn't have to move them. :)
The little propane torch was a joke, I knew it wouldn't work, but gave it a shot anyway cause it was sitting there. I knew better.

I'll get back on it once I have some time again in between wheeling trips. (got a bunch planned, and working on it will cut into them.)
Proly after the subaru show.

#16 TeamCF

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Posted 28 June 2008 - 01:34 AM

Well LSD will only break axles it only causes more stress to the axles that is why I went with the welded. I took out my axle and drive around just fine. I was frustrated to but all you need is a friend who can help you break those things loose.

But in your defense I am sorry you had to endure the pain of axles but both of mine didnt want to come off and it took a weekend and three guys to get them off.


Yeah i just ran out of time. Tomarrow is busy and I have to meet a bunch of Jeeps out at TSF at 9 am sunday morning. I was gonna just leave it in and drive it anyway. But I figured I'll put the open one in and make it so I have the least amount of troubles. I'll try it again before giving up completely on it. :)




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