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Easy Transmission Front Seal Replacement


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70 replies to this topic

#26 Gloyale

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:14 AM

Excellent write up!

I have ordered the front seal for my tranny along with the two drive-axle stub seals.

I assume you need to remove the lower shaft and the differential to get at the left hand stub seal - is there any special re-install "gotcha's" about putting the diff and lower shaft back in???

Cheers!

Steve


There is a pin in the case and a matching hole in the pinion bearing......must line them up when reinstalling the lower shaft.

the upper shaft has a similar setup on the bearing that supports the front part of the shaft.

must get those lined up or it all won't fit back toghether

#27 samneric

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Posted 07 September 2010 - 11:22 AM

There is a pin in the case and a matching hole in the pinion bearing......must line them up when reinstalling the lower shaft.

the upper shaft has a similar setup on the bearing that supports the front part of the shaft.

must get those lined up or it all won't fit back toghether


Cheers, I had that noted about the top one so if the bottom one is the same, that's no biggy.

Just need to take all four bolts out of the lower shaft bearing retainer, then the shaft lifts out followed by the diff?

Then after changing the seal, simply replace the diff and lower shaft, making sure the dowel is aligned with the hole in the bearing???

Sorry to pester but want to make sure all bases are covered before taking something apart :)

Steve

#28 samneric

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Posted 12 September 2010 - 07:41 PM

Cheers, I had that noted about the top one so if the bottom one is the same, that's no biggy.

Just need to take all four bolts out of the lower shaft bearing retainer, then the shaft lifts out followed by the diff?

Then after changing the seal, simply replace the diff and lower shaft, making sure the dowel is aligned with the hole in the bearing???

Sorry to pester but want to make sure all bases are covered before taking something apart :)

Steve


Oh and just one note: Don't follow my lead and assume that the rear cover is this - it isn't :rolleyes: It is the flat piece of metal on the top...

Posted Image

I suppose it is a COMPLETE new gasket set - lucky that is what I have on the way from 1stsubaru parts....:)

Steve

#29 samneric

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 08:18 AM

OK all,

I have just received my trans re-seal kit from Subaru - loads of washers and seals and stuff...

Question is - after I change out the four external axle/driveshaft seals, are there any other seals I can easily replace while the tranny is in bits?

I'm thinking the shift selector external seal????

I have loads of bits - just wonder where they all go?!

Steve

#30 Fairtax4me

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Posted 27 September 2010 - 11:33 AM

I replaced the shift selector seal when I did mine. It's really easy if you have the tailshaft housing off of the trans already. Sand down the rust on the selector shaft before you slide it back into the new seal. I coated the shaft with anti corrosive grease to help prevent further corrosion. Petroleum jelly also works well for that and is easily available.

#31 samneric

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 09:14 PM

UPDATE AND ANOTHER TIP!!!!

Well, I now have the two front tranny halves back together

Lessons learned by me..

1) You can actually bolt the lower shaft bearing retainer on upside down if you have taken it off completely to replace the front axle-stub seals

Don't do this yourselves people!! Its hard to tell its wrong until you have the two halves back together (sealed with rtv in my case ) - make sure you spin the retainer round 180 degress if its wrong - best option is to check by test-fitting the two halves together (without rtv ) and make sure all 4 bolt holes line up.

2) That bearing retainer thin metal gasket/spacer thing is a PITA! It makes getting your 4 bolts back in awkward - I sliced open my thumb trying to turn it so a bolt would go in.

3) The ring that front diff roller bearing rides on fell of the side of my tranny when I was knocking the old seal out - no probs - just put it back in carefully (tight fit). I thought I had messed something up at first because there was a lot of play in the pinon-diff (it would knock when turning the axles stubs back and forth) until I had all the tranny bolts torqed down properly. Again, not a prob but it scared me a little.

All in all, it took me about 3 hours to get those halves back together - Gonna tackle joining the rear half back up next!

Steve

#32 1-3-2-4

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 08:57 AM

When I drop my tranny and open up the cover plate I will make sure I will post a clearer picture of whats show in the above picture.. It's still hard for me to make out what I'm looking at. My camera has a super macro mode so I can go as close as 2 inches :eek:

#33 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 12:14 PM

It's still hard for me to make out what I'm looking at. My camera has a super macro mode so I can go as close as 2 inches :eek:


Pictures are.... only somewhat useful for people that haven't had a transmission apart before. There's a lot going on inside there and I really don't think that static pictures will tell the whole story. You have to open one up, run it through the gears and see how it works as you turn things to fully understand it.

GD

#34 1-3-2-4

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 02:50 PM

I know I have to open it up to see what's going on..

Anyways does anyone know the length of the transmission? Will it fit in the back of a ford taurus?

#35 grossgary

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 03:30 PM

trans will definitely fit in the back of a taurus. i've had a ton of subaru trans in the back of subaru's and my in-laws have a few taurus' - those trunks are huge in comparison to Subarus.

trans mounts sometimes get in the way and make angling awkward, but no big deal.

#36 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 03:31 PM

Anyways does anyone know the length of the transmission? Will it fit in the back of a ford taurus?


Easily. I've seen them hauled in first gen Legacy trunks and STi trunks... etc. They are about 75 to 100 lbs or so. Not hard to move around.

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#37 1-3-2-4

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 03:44 PM

Easily. I've seen them hauled in first gen Legacy trunks and STi trunks... etc. They are about 75 to 100 lbs or so. Not hard to move around.

GD


it's not really the weight of it I'm going to guess it's around 30-36" long?

btw I'm 125 Lb so haha getting it from the trunk is going to be interesting but doable.

#38 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 04:03 PM

Oh - well in that case bring a friend. I'm a bit less than double your weight so take what I say with that in mind :rolleyes:. You could do it I'm sure - just have to employ some "egyptian" methods :lol:.

GD

#39 1-3-2-4

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 04:44 PM

haha I just better remember to put on the steel toes that day :lol:

#40 johnceggleston

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Posted 07 April 2011 - 07:13 PM

and DRAIN THE TRANS FLUID before you load it. this may be difficult if it has already been pulled but the fluid will puke out of the rump roast end if you tilt it the wrong way. i then put a rubber glove over the end. this will catch any drips, but not absolutely secure.

whose taurus are you using?

#41 grossgary

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 07:58 AM

+1 to draining the fluid. take a large old blanket or something stout to throw over the bumper as the trans will likely touch it or you'll rest it against the vehicle.

if you're getting the trans from a yard they typically have fork lifts or help there.

#42 1-3-2-4

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 08:04 AM

Yea getting from a yard dont they check and drain before selling? Also what can you get for scrap for the tranny?

#43 Fairtax4me

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Posted 08 April 2011 - 08:06 PM

Yea getting from a yard dont they check and drain before selling? Also what can you get for scrap for the tranny?


Depending on the market. About $5-10.
You'll have a core charge on the junkyard trans of about $20-25 though. Take the broken trans back to them (doesn't matter if it's messed up, just put the case back together first) and you get the money back.

#44 1-3-2-4

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:18 AM

This is going to sound like a stupid question but I never tried shifting at the transmission before and it looks and feels different from the shifter, I must be in reverse when moving the shifter rod to the left in the transfer case section you can see which opposing forces labels as the neutral switch (picture 2 in post) moves and I'm unable to move the rod again until I rotate it again to unlock it from the position..

in the effort to not make this sound more confusing I can't figure out how to find all 5 years.. If I just pull it straight out and back in, it seems like it has 3 positions. Turning both driveshafts you can tell it must be in a higher gear because the effort to turn it becomes much greater.

#45 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:15 AM

Put a big screwdriver in the shift selector so you can turn it. Everything you would do with the shifter in the console is the same here. Left and forward is 1st, right and back is reverse.

#46 1-3-2-4

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:26 AM

Hmm I will try that again when I get home I guess just pushing it forward and backwards puts it in 3-N-4

anyone have the part number for the input seal? is it 806725090?

Edited by 1-3-2-4, 20 May 2012 - 06:35 PM.


#47 msplankton

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Posted 11 June 2012 - 05:07 PM

hoping you will help me w/ dilemma i have. 1st, beautiful photos and info! mom of son's '01 outback wagon took to shop where they replaced head gasket + seals?, plus the timing belt and asst. for $1750. mom brought home saying "what is that smell?" 3 days later return to shop, where he says, "just excess oil, sprays with that stuff in the white can made by Lucas".

2 months later, that smell is still there, and look, there is different oil on my floor than original drips, to the best of memory. 3rd visit to mechanic yields arguing, crying, "lady~this oil is coming from transaxle gear and also power steering position". that is $1700.

my pov and question is "did the mechanic loosen anything while doing original job, so that now there is new dripping oil? if so, what is my responsibility in this matter? i would hate to turn this into a battle.

#48 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 11 June 2012 - 09:32 PM

my pov and question is "did the mechanic loosen anything while doing original job, so that now there is new dripping oil? if so, what is my responsibility in this matter? i would hate to turn this into a battle.


First of all - we can help you but you need to do a couple things for us:

1. Start your own thread. This one is for discussion of a repair path for a problem that is known - not discovery of a new one.

2. We need to know year, model, engine and transmission type. Pictures if you have them and if any other pertinent information you can think of. We are not mind readers nor do we have crystal balls. I can't tell you anything at all about your problem from what you have posted thus far. Nor will anyone of consequence see your post unless you start your own thread... see #1.

GD

#49 Gloyale

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 01:21 PM

I should update and advise that anyone replacing this front seal also replace BOTH bearings on the input shaft.  The large rear bearing started going in this excact trans and less than a year later, and I had to go back in.  That was over 2 years ago now.

 

This trans is now in my EJ'd 86 wagon now, and is running strong with all new bearings the last time, and all seals.



#50 Fairtax4me

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Posted 20 July 2013 - 09:24 PM

Ill second that. Replace both input shaft bearings while its apart.
The front one is cheap and easy, no reason not to. The rear one is the noise maker, and will be the end of the trans when it goes bad. I have video of one that was so wrecked the outer bearing race was actually cracked.




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