11 replies to this topic

[mountaingoatgruff]

i have to switch out my spfi hatch's evap can for emissions testing reasons to match oe part for my 92 spfi system. no big deal, i already had the can with the rest of my spfi donor parts.

thing is, i'm wondering if there's a reason why the bottom has a hose on it that would mean i have to keep one there.

these cans are usually open to batting on the bottom (like my ea81 can) so the only reason i can think of for having the hose is to direct whatever fuel vapors may escape away from the battery (cuz ea82 cars have the can and the battery inside the driver's fender, right?).

i'm just leaving the swivel elbow pointed to the fender without a hose. its gonna be hard enough to convince him that the carb'd and injected models both used cans with four ports on top and injected models just had the bowl vent ports capped (maybe a dealership printout will help if the part no's are the same), let alone explain a hose going nowhere...

[GeneralDisorder]

I don't know the purpose of the hose, but I suspect it's a road draft tube or a condesate drain.... or a road draft condensate drain

EA82's have the battery on the drivers side and the can on the passenger side. EA81's are opposite. In either case though the can is opposite the battery in all stock configurations that I can recall.

I would get a printout of the parts breakdown for the SPFI evap system to show the guy. Functionally the different ports are just additional vapor inlets - only one of the ports on any can is going to be the vapor discharge. Perhaps reason with the man - multiple inlets for multiple fuel reserviors makes sense - you just don't have the fuel reservoir that's inside a carb.

GD

[McDave]

On my '93 Loyale the can is on the passenger side (battery on driver's). The hose that comes off the elbow on the bottom of the can just sticks out a few inches, then makes a 90 degree turn straight down for about 8 inches in-between the fender and radiator (tucked out of sight). It vents to atmosphere. It's an original Seattle car that I'm sure hasn't been tampered with. Hope this helps.

PS I can take a photo in the morning of the canister and the factory (48 state) hose routing. The canister just clips in place so it's no problem to lift the canister and show the whole ball of wax.

How's that egr working?

[mountaingoatgruff]

It vents to atmosphere.

i was sure of that and i'd hope the ref knows that's how it should be. all the vapor canisters i've seen are vented on the bottom.

How's that egr working?

works well now after switching the vac hoses on the tb. i'll know for sure when i take it in, i've been postponing doing this work cuz i don't particularly enjoy being in the garage when its 110* outside.

i guess it didn't hurt anything to replace the egr but the old one is probably still good, i'll hold onto it as a spare - you never know how long kragen's parts will last.

and another thing, i've been running the black ecu ever since i swaped it in for the silver one and the car runs much better cold. i don't know why there would be a difference but it idles better and doesn't miss under heavy acceleration nearly as much so i'm keeping the black ecu in - screw that silver one.

[McDave]

works well now after switching the vac hoses on the tb.

There ya go. With them switched wrong it was running out of vacuum about the time you needed it. Sounds like a winner!

For the search engine:
"Standing at the front of the car looking at the throttle body, the vacuum port on the left goes to the egr solenoid."

[mountaingoatgruff]

Standing at the front of the car looking at the throttle body, the vacuum port on the left goes to the egr solenoid.

uhhh, mine's the opposite.

[McDave]

uhhh, mine's the opposite.

According to the '90 fsm - The vacuum port on the front passenger side of the tb goes to the egr solenoid (just like mine and the one I fixed last week).

[mountaingoatgruff]

According to the '90 fsm - The vacuum port on the front passenger side of the tb goes to the egr solenoid (just like mine and the one I fixed last week).

that's how i originally hooked it up since that's how it was before i tore it all apart. my pass side port has no vac at idle and only gets a few inches at 3k rpm. the one on my driver's side has no vac at idle and gets about 15 inches at 3k rpm. my egr only works when the vac line is hooked onto the driver's side port. apparently there's gotta be some blockage or something on my pass side despite the fact that i blew compressed air through there and it seemed fine.

[McDave]

that's how i originally hooked it up since that's how it was before i tore it all apart. my pass side port has no vac at idle and only gets a few inches at 3k rpm. the one on my driver's side has no vac at idle and gets about 15 inches at 3k rpm. my egr only works when the vac line is hooked onto the driver's side port. apparently there's gotta be some blockage or something on my pass side despite the fact that i blew compressed air through there and it seemed fine.

Ok then, I would leave it alone for the smog test, but after that if you have any flat spots on acceleration, particularly when cold, I would switch them back.

[grossgary]

i'm just leaving the swivel elbow pointed to the fender without a hose. its gonna be hard enough to convince him that the carb'd and injected models both used cans with four ports on top and injected models just had the bowl vent ports capped (maybe a dealership printout will help if the part no's are the same), let alone explain a hose going nowhere...

they really inspect engines that closely out there? how often? shaking head and muttering bad things about CA......

[mountaingoatgruff]

they really inspect engines that closely out there? how often? shaking head and muttering bad things about CA......

regular somg techs don't. they just look for the stuff their computer tells them to and the level of their inspection depends on who you go to. as far as the bar ref i'm sent to, he sure does! i had to point out where each component on my spfi schematic was located, where each vac hose was routed and where my ecu was mounted. i stood there and watched him pull off vac hoses and feel for vac. next time i go in i have to bring a complete ea82 airbox to prove there's no lines hooked into it so my k&n will be approved.

the ref even told me at first there was no way no how that he would be able to help me and i would be forced to put the carb back on. i showed him a printout from autozone showing the hitachi carb at $520 (yeah, i picked an expensive one on purpose ) and my receipt for my spfi parts at $300 and he said "that's irrelevant." i explained to him that i'm moving to co in a matter of months and this is literally the only time i'll be smogging the hatch in ca, no dice. it was only after i mentioned that i conformed to 92 emissions specs that he was even willing to look at the car since he could put it down as an engine swap - i shoulda said that first!

the part that gets me is that according to ca's database, my vin says my hatch should have a turbo. the ref showed me the page in his book that says my vin shows an mpfi ea81t! did they even make turbo hatches?

[GeneralDisorder]

the part that gets me is that according to ca's database, my vin says my hatch should have a turbo. the ref showed me the page in his book that says my vin shows an mpfi ea81t! did they even make turbo hatches?

Nope - the only turbo hatches made were built for the movie Cannonball Run. EA81T's only came stock in wagons, coupe's, and Brat's. And all of them were automatics.

There's telltale signs of EA81T occupancy though - is your battery on the drivers side?

Perhaps your vin is from a turbo wagon or 2 door coupe?

Non-sequitur, but the EA81T was only 98 HP. The JDM dual-carb EA81's were 108 HP, and racing versions (dual carb as well) were higher still.

GD