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Intake Manifold Bolts
Posted 21 July 2008 - 01:22 PM
Posted 21 July 2008 - 01:36 PM
Anyone think I can get away with just 2 bolts on the one side?
I very highly doubt it. maybe you could cut 3/8" off another intake bolt so you can at least get some threads in there? You should buy an early model Legacy or Impreza and keep the other car as a backup/fixer upper. Cupholders, cruise... what more could you ask for?
Posted 21 July 2008 - 01:55 PM
Posted 21 July 2008 - 09:05 PM
Even if it leaks it will be a very small leak and you'll get by till you can replace it and do the job right.
And when you do, DO NOT use an easy out. You'll break it off - they suck. If you have access to a welder have someone weld an appropriate sized nut to what's left exposed. You may have to weld it half a dozen times and keep working it back and forth to get it out but it will work.
Posted 21 July 2008 - 10:06 PM
If you have access to a welder have someone weld an appropriate sized nut to what's left exposed. You may have to weld it half a dozen times and keep working it back and forth to get it out but it will work.
I agree. I usually plug weld a washer to top of the bolt and then plug weld a nut to the washer, worked 4 or 5 times for me.
The heat from welding helps a lot too.
Posted 21 July 2008 - 11:17 PM
Johnson']The heat from welding helps a lot too.
The weld on washer or nut trick is the way to go.
This is too late in this case, but I have found that if you run the engine until it is at normal operating temperature, then remove the bolts, it is less likely for them to break off.
Or - put the manifold on with the missing bolt, run till hot, quickley remove and then do the weld trick.
Part of the reason this works is that the aluminum block expands at a much greater rate than the steel bolts. That's why heating the block helps.
Posted 22 July 2008 - 12:58 AM
Try this.. if you have the time. Take a good penetrant, like PB Blaster or Knock'er Loose, (WD40 does NOT work as advertised... ) spray it on and whack it with a hammer to shock the corrosion. I know, it sounds abusive, but it works. Use a drift punch or another similar tool to shock the bolt, not the head. Do this a couple times, and using a reverse drill bit it should come right out. I've done this a number of times.
IF this does not work, try the welding trick, as described above. Place a nut over the broken bolt, weld the hole of the nut to the bolt, and GENTLY work it out. Remember, a good penetrating oil is INVALUABLE!!!
You CAN get away with using only 2 bolts, as GD stated above, use a NEW gasket and if you can, goo both sides of the gasket with "Ultra Gray" Permatex silicone. This will get you by until you have the time to remove the broken bolt.
Posted 22 July 2008 - 07:07 AM
if you're not down with welding and stuff there are some simpler options. use left handed drill bits, these things are awesome. use a tiny drill bit (right handed is fine) to start or a punch or grind or file the top flat/flush so you can center the bit. then use some left handed drill bits. they will start the drilling process and eventually the left handed bits will grab and back the bolt out. the left handed drilling (unscrewing motion) and heating of the bolt will both contribute to loosening it.
another option, that i've actually done before....and others on here will hate and reprimand me for....is to drill, tap and thread the bolt inside the head for a smaller bolt. it's ghetto but it's easy and it does work (done it). i've done it with a hand held cordless drill before. i usually try and size the washers well since the bolt head is typicaly smaller to help with clamping force distribution, etc. don't know if it matters but definitely helps the bolt stay flush.
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