loyalist Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 Just to keep you guys posted: One day I drove the vehicle around and when the engine backfired, I heard a loud popping sound from underneath the dashboard, where the pedals are and a burnt smell came into the cabin. This must be a cracked booster diaphram. Since the check valve from the vacuum line to the booster is missing - I've just noticed it - the backfire pressure damaged the booster - I think. I disconected the vacuum hose at the intake manifold and blew/suck into it and there is little resistance. My lungs is the limit. Found new booster on the net for $169 and ordered one. In the meantime removed the AIC valve and cleaned it. Checked resistance of the coil - 10.8 ohm and no short. Put it back and tested it. Running engine still cold, disconnected unit - high idle drops down significantly. So this thing is working I guess. Next step: capped off vacuum nipple for the booster at the intake manifold and drove the vehicle around the block (have to press the pedal harder, but the brake is still pretty good without the booster!) and when I put the tranny into neutral and applied the brake agressively (like in an emergency), the rpm drops down to Zero. (Can keep it from dieing by hitting the accelerator pedal. )Then tried the same in reverse and guess what? The engine not only did not die, but rpm increases! Bought two books: the Chilton and the Haynes manuals. Found a sensor it the Chilton's called Vehicle Speed Sensor. Could this be bad? It is located somewhere behind the speedometer. Noticed before, that - sometimes - on the highway when I slow down, the speedometer needle stays up (only at the higher regions - 70 mph and up) even though the rpm meter and the feeling in the car clearly indicate that the vehicle is slowing down. What's you guy's take on this? Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calebz Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 After the car dies, Does it start right back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 16, 2004 Share Posted January 16, 2004 the speed sensor will flash you i believe a code 36. the speed sensor is there for the cruise control unit. as far as the heater goes, check around the vacuum canister on the passenger strut tower, there will be a skinny line from the motor, and black plastic lines along the firewall, just below the cown rubber seal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/vacuumcan.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalist Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 Yes, it starts right up with the "first kick", or if I still have momentum, just release the clutch in - say - second gear and the idle goes right back to 750. Or if I just lightly touch the accelerator pedal, it wouldn't die. I also operated the buttons on the heater control box watching the rpm, but no change due to that. You're talking about than black sphere, right? I grabbed all the vacuum hoses in the engine compartment I could find and moved them back and forth to see if the idle changes, but nothing. The only time the engine dies if I step on the brake very hard (don't forget the booster is still disconnected!), but what's strange, only going forward. Accelerate in reverse and do an emergency braking and the rpm goes up. Just beats me! (Did I say that before?) Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalist Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 Yes, it starts right up with the "first kick", or if I still have momentum, just release the clutch in - say - second gear and the idle goes right back to 750. Or if I just lightly touch the accelerator pedal, it wouldn't die. I also operated the buttons on the heater control box watching the rpm, but no change due to that. You're talking about than black sphere, right? I grabbed all the vacuum hoses in the engine compartment I could find and moved them back and forth to see if the idle changes, but nothing. The only time the engine dies if I step on the brake very hard (don't forget the booster is still disconnected!), but what's strange, only going forward. Accelerate in reverse and do an emergency braking and the rpm goes up. Just beats me! (Did I say that before?) Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyalist Posted January 16, 2004 Author Share Posted January 16, 2004 If the booster is disconnected from the intake manifold how would the engine (or ECU)"notice" that the vehicle is slowing down? By the way if I use the brake just very carefully, the engine won't die. I mean rpm not dropping below idle. Went to Pep Boys to read a book about emission control stuff on cars and find a chapter about the Vehicle Speed Sensors. It said on some vehicles it affects idle, poweer steering etc.. don't remember what else. My power steering feels a little weaker lately too (reservoir is full, but have to top it off every two weeks or so, have a minor leak. The cruise control quit working some time ago (year or two). Hardly ever used it anyway. Today receved a new check valve for the brake booster vacuum line. THat damn little thing was $25.00 from Subaru. A new booster from them would be $200.00 - I ordered one for $169 plus shipping ($17.00), but since then saw it advertised for $149.00. Allegedly all genuine OEM pieces. Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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