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Replacing TBs, Seals, Pumps


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Optimator

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 02:05 AM

I don't have much mechanical experience but I'm smart and confident (nerdy) enough that I can do this. My car is in my profile info. Here are the parts (from eBay) I've already obtained:

2 Timing Belts
2 Tensioners
1 Idler Sprocket thing
2 Camshaft Seals & O-rings
1 Crankshaft Seal
1 Oil Pump Seal & Mouse Seal & O-ring

I'm not sure if I need to replace the oil and/or water pump. If I have the money, I guess I might as well, right? And if I replace the water pump I should also replace the thermostat too? A few weeks ago I sprung a coolant leak and I'm not real sure where it is coming from. I'll try to pinpoint it better before I start this project.

Also, in some instruction guides it says I need to remove the A/C compressor to get the TB covers off, and that a real mechanic needs to depressurize the compressor or something like that. Another part says I need to remove the starter motor. Is any of that actually true?

#2 misledxcracker

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 03:39 AM

Remove thermostat, pressure check the cooling system, that's how i do it anyway. You'll find your leak.

You dont have to remove the AC compressor to get the covers off. Nor do you have to remove the starter.

If it were me, I'd first reseal the oil pump, then do the crankshaft seal, and the cam seals. Replace the water pump if you don't know the last time it was replaced. Idler sprocket thing sounds like the inner belt tensioner, yes, replace that. They tend to seize at the wrong time...

#3 McDave

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 08:13 AM

How many miles are on your car?

#4 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 08:50 AM

Timing belts every 60k, water pump every 120k if you use OEM pumps. Every 60k if you use aftermarket.

Test your oil pressure. If it's below 20 psi at idle when hot (radiator fan cycles) then replace the pump. Regardless do the seals and use only OEM seals. Aftermarket is fine for belts and tensioners but OEM is best for seals and gaskets.

GD

#5 Optimator

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 11:14 AM

You dont have to remove the AC compressor to get the covers off. Nor do you have to remove the starter.

Thanks. I thought it sounded a bit excessive.

How many miles are on your car?

130xxx. I bought the car with 116xxx 2 years ago.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 11:22 AM

even if you unbolt the a/c to move it out of the way, you don't have to disconnect the lines. you can even leave them connected when removing the engine, they'll swing out of the way enough to pull it out with no worries of disconnecting and recharging.

i'd replace the water pump and thermostat for sure, not the oil pump. good time to replace the radiator cap as well.

#7 robm

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Posted 15 August 2008 - 01:30 PM

Re: your coolant leak:

Check the o-ring on the pipe that runs into the water pump from the rad. They get old and stop sealing, then can leak at the back where it is impossible to see the exact source. It just drips down the front of the engine onto the ground.

Good luck.

#8 Optimator

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Posted 21 August 2008 - 04:54 PM

I skimmed through a few threads here... It looks like I need the 110mm version of the water pump, right? The car has a stock A/C in it.

#9 McDave

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Posted 22 August 2008 - 07:41 AM

I skimmed through a few threads here... It looks like I need the 110mm version of the water pump, right? The car has a stock A/C in it.

Yes, the longer pump for a/c cars. You'll probably want to change the heater hose elbow (see photo) coming off the pump too. For that you will need to unbolt the compressor bracket. The hose needed is a generic 5/8" heater hose 90 degree elbow and can be bought at any auto parts store, though you will likely need to trim the ends of the new hose to match your current one.

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#10 Optimator

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 04:59 PM

I started this project today. I'm having the darndest time disconnecting the radiator hoses. Should I just chop them up and replace them too?

#11 Optimator

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 05:43 PM

Nevermind I finally got them off. Tight spaces and fat hands, not to mention the 100% humidity, 90 degree weather, gnats, and ants biting... it's a good thing I have a lot of patience.

#12 Optimator

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Posted 03 September 2008 - 07:33 PM

This is much more confusing than I thought. I almost don't want to bother with it anymore.

#13 heartless

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 06:58 AM

Dont give up - you CAN do it!

yeah, it can be a bit confusing, and frustrating, the first time, but it does get easier - and you are getting to know your Subie better!

There is a wealth of information available here - if you cant find what you are looking for by doing a search, all you need do is ask, someone is bound to have the answer.

#14 MR_Loyale

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Posted 05 September 2008 - 06:44 PM

When I did mine I found that going really slow, mark and tag everything meticulosly and write it down on a pad helped my sanity.

When I went to put things back together, all I had to do was read the steps backwards.

#15 Optimator

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 09:13 PM

Thank you two for replying. I was afraid I had become too annoying of a poster that no one wanted to bother with me.

I haven't given up yet. I finally realized that my oil leak was coming from the passenger side valve cover. And I realized I could take that cover off from the side with relative ease. Sure enough the valve cover gasket was broken so that got replaced as well as the grommets. It was a great feeling, fixing my oil leak.

While I wasn't able to get very far with the timing belts, I did manage to get the outside covers off and the current TBs look pretty good so that buys me some time to figure out how to replace them. I couldn't even get the crankshaft nut off. I'm supposed to remove the starter and stick a pry bar into a flywheel to hold the crankshaft in place? Not sure how that's done yet.

I think I will be able to replace the water pump (& gasket & O-ring & thermostat). That should take care of my coolant leak as I pinpointed the water pump area as the source.

#16 mudduck

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Posted 14 September 2008 - 10:10 PM

Get a 22mm socket and a breaker bar. Get the socket on the pully bolt and get the breaker bar to set on the driver side frame rail and bump the motor.

#17 Virrdog

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Posted 15 September 2008 - 06:49 PM

TI couldn't even get the crankshaft nut off. I'm supposed to remove the starter and stick a pry bar into a flywheel to hold the crankshaft in place? Not sure how that's done yet.

I stick the car into 5th gear (it's the opposite of what you normally do, but this time you want the gear with the least mechanical advantage on the wheels) and pop that bolt off with a breaker bar. Hasn't failed me yet. :)




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