Forester battery?

[Guest photo2001]

My car has developed a problem where if it sits unstarted for more than a few days, it won't start without a jump. Used to be able to leave it for a month and it would start right up.

It's a 2000 Forester, so the battery is about 3&1/2 years old. However, I had the 30,000 mile service done about a month ago, mentioned this problem. They told me that they 'checked all systems' and found nothing wrong. I did have a situation this winter where the car was improperly jump started, (reversed polarity), finally found out it was the fusible link, and it seemed fine for awhile. I suppose when it was jumped that time, it could have shorted out the battery, but wouldn't Subaru have been able to check that? The other possiblity is a short in the alarm system which I have on all the time, (except right now).

Any thoughts appreciated.

[Guest Legacy777]

Sounds like you have a small short of some kind. What I'd do is when you plan to leave the car sit for more then 3 days or some where around that. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. When you go to start it back up, hook the battery cable up, and see if it starts. If it starts, there's a very good chance you have a short, or a small amount of current draw some where that's draining the battery. At that point, if it's under warranty still, take it to the dealer and let them deal with it, as finding electrical problems can be a pain. You'll also pretty much need a new battery. Once they've been drained down a couple times, they never hold a full charge again.

 

If when you hook the cables back up, and the car doesn't start, it's probably just a crappy battery, and you'll just need a new one.

[Guest 1 Lucky Texan]

I don't have much to offer other than my middle daughter's Nissan once had a similar problem and it turned out the diode trio was bad in the alt.

Also, where I live (in Texas) it's difficult to get more than about 3 years out os a battery. Whem they 'claim' they checked all systems I wonder if they specifically looked for a bad cell in the battery? AutoZone or other parts outlets will usually bring out the load box and test batt/alt for free.

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

[Guest photo2001]

My Subaru dealer said that to really check this out, I'd have to leave the Forester there for three or four days so they can test it after it's been idle for that long. Since I'm not Jay Leno, (don't have 100 cars to play with), that's not an option for me. I'm just going to have the battery replaced and go from there. Does anyone know who manufactures Subaru's batteries for them? I should probably just get a Diehard, but I also have to have a new seatbelt retractor installed at the dealer, so I figured I'll just get it all done at once. Thanks for the replies!

[Guest 1 Lucky Texan]

Your dealer kinda' concerns me. They should be able to remove one battery lead and check the current draw against some known number or another Forrester. If you have a 'sneak path' draining the battery the current should show higher than 'normal'.(I guess the clock and what - maybe the alarm if engaged would be drawing some minimal power).

I suppose you're sure some interior light, seat heater, mirror heater, wiper deicer,etc. wasn't accidentally engaged? Also, I'd think they should offer you a loaner - though that does seem to be rare among dealers.

Also - when I had a battery last 5 years in my first Honda I thought MAN! that's a great battery, I want another one! BUT-it was TWICE as much as another battery! If you have Autozone in your area I think they have a Gold level batt. with a 3 year FULL rplacement warranty. At least they used to.

good luck!

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

[Guest meep424]

a few years back, johnson controls (JCI) made soobie batts. Ours lasted 6-7 years. They also make interstate.

 

Do not buy diehard. Walmart carry the SAME battery (same manufacturer).

 

JCI/Interstate, Exide are good. Optima = premium but pricey.

 

maintenance free = better IF colder climate. Watered batt best in warmer climates. can't remember where I read this...

 

mike

[Guest photo2001]

Carl, my dealer concerns me too! I don't think they even checked the battery out when I plunked down $600 for the 30k service a month ago.

The only draw I am aware of is the alarm system. This winter, the hatch light was accidentally left on for a few days, and that was when this all started.

Sears Diehard gold level battery is very highly recommended by Consumer Reports, so I'm considering it. It's got a 3-year warranty. It's also about half the price of Subaru's battery w/installation.

 

 

Mike, why don't you like the Sears Diehard, or are you referring to price only compared to Walmart?

re: "maintenance free = better IF colder climate. Watered batt best in warmer climates. can't remember where I read this..."

 

That's a problem here in the Northeast. Especially if we have more winters like we just had. Bitter cold winter, 90 degree's last week, how do you decide on maintainance free or watered? The one that came with the Forester is watered, but we have had mild winters for years until now. I like the idea of maintainance free though.

 

Kevin

[Guest 1 Lucky Texan]

OK - WAG (wild rump roast guess) The light COMPLETELY drained you near 3 yo batt. The terminals are a little corroded AND maybe you have a bad cell. The batt never gets fully charged by the alt (remember the corroded terminals?) and/or there is a shorted cell inside and the batt is overheated by the the alt. possibly boiling out MORE of an already low (3yo remember) electrolyte. There may have been enough of a charge to satisfy the demands of a single start at one time and/or the dealership just added water without actually checking the batt/charging circuit. Have you gone to Autozone or somewhere and had them actually load test the batt.? maybe this thread is too long for me to keep up!

anyway - do let us know - some folks just lurk but may need the info.

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

[Guest photo2001]

Carl, I think your assessment is probably right. I've never been to an Autozone, but there's no reason my my Subaru dealer can't run the same tests, (except for sloppiness).

 

I think I'm gonna go for the Diehard and take it from there.

 

Thanks,

Kevin

[Guest meep424]

I found diehards, at best, to be unremarkable. In this, I mean they are not bad batteries, but you pay more than you should for what you get. Save 20% and buy a store name battery at any parts store and you get the same performance/lifespan.

 

Buy a decent battery at wally world and you have the same battery, same mfr.

 

I grew up doing all of my family's car work, and dad Loved diehards. well, he just loved sears. We NEVER had one make it to its estimated lifespan, but we sure paid a premium for the "diehard" badge.

 

Note that the 3 yr warranty is pro-rated, if I recall. So you buy it, it fails at 2.5 years and you get $5 back (example). Unless they've changed, they don't replace the whole thing (but correct me if I'm wrong).

 

ALSO, something I learned with our legacy si that you can fit a TALLER battery in there (at least the 96-99), and the taller unit is a more common and less $$ size. Saved $9 to put in a bigger battery!! Don't remember the group size, tho :-(. A friendly battery shop should be happy to help you play this game.

 

maintenance free vs not. Both are very much available. if you're in the NE, maintenance free should be fine.

 

Tell you what-- I'm gonna see if I can locate that article I referred to before.

 

Meep!

[Guest meep424]

here it is. good overview info. see links on choosing a battery and manufacturers.

 

uuhome.de/william.darden/

 

Meep

[Guest WagonsOnly]

The Sears warranty is full for the first 12-18 months (depending on battery model) then prorated past 12 months to 3 years, or past 18 months to 5 years (again depending on model). If your battery dies under the replacement warranty (mine did on my VW) they subtract the number of months you owned the previous battery from the warranty on the replacement battery. I wouldn't go back to Sears for simply that reason--I got a brand new battery when the first one died, with 1/2 the warranty I would have gotten had I bought the same battery off the shelf. And furthermore the manager didn't want to give me the replacement without charging a "service fee" and an "inspection fee" to make sure the alt/wiring on my Volks didn't cause the battery to die. Fortunately it wasn't there--I had to get a ride to Sears because I couldn't even jump the battery.

[Guest meep424]

poking around last night, in the faq section of the above url, confirmed that walmart (everstart), sears (diehard) and the autozone (dura-something of other) are all the SAME battery.

 

Mike

[Guest 1 Lucky Texan]

I'm not surprised. At one time I was told there were only 3 US battery manufacturers.

Might make sense to shop by some algorithm involving Price/Warranty/Convenience.

They may be the same battery but i bet the warranties are different.

The best battery I've ever owned was a Yuasa that came on one of my Hondas - almost 5 years in Texas! BUT-it was VERY 'spendy' for me back then.

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

[Guest meep424]

yuasa seems to make a good product.

 

I pulled three out of the trash ("ain't too proud...") and stuck'em on an electronic desulfator for 12 weeks or so. I've used them for 2 years since then with zero disappointments.

 

Mike

[Guest lothar34]

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[Guest photo2001]

Went for the Sears Diehard today. Just got sick of having to get my car jump started and they were the only place available the day before July 4th! They checked the charging system and said it checked fine. For $79 + $10 for the install, it's done (+tax of course). Couldn't go another weekend with a dead battery. Thanks to everyone for all your help!

 

Kevin

[Guest 1 Lucky Texan]

thanx for posting the 'rest of the story''.

Carl

1 Lucky Texan