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Clutch install question


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well the guy I got the car from said that pulling the motor was a breeze. This is the first time working on a subaru so I am open to any idea's. He also told me that two people could lift the motor up and pull it out? true/false? and the whole thing could be done in two hours..

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Well, two people can move it around OK. Being that it will have all goodies still attached I wouldn't recommend it. The two hour estimate is a bit off in my opinion. I am very versed in the mechanicals of these and I can have the turbo engine out and on the ground in 1-1 1/2 hours. The first timer will take a bit longer.

 

Either way is ok, it just depends on the equipment you have access to. Do you have a larger hydraulic jack or an engine hoist? This will determine which way will be easier.

 

Time wise you have to take a few things into consideration. You have to get the flywheel turned(machined) to make sure you don't get any clutch shudder. There's clean up of the parts and such. If you are gonna pull the motor then I'd recommend doing the rear main seal as it will be out in the open(either way you do it actually) Maybe valve covers or any other leaking gaskets or seals. More work now but less later. You will also take into account the time needed to fix any broken bolts in the exhaust system. They don't always like to come out after they've been untouched for long periods.

 

Being new to this I would say plan for a weekend and hope it only takes a few hours. Another option is to get a flywheel from a junk yard and have it turned ahead of time. Will save an hour or more waiting for the shop to turn it.

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well he gave me a light larger flywheel off a v6 that is supposed to bolt right up and that is already turned. what are the main connections that I have to undo to get this motor out.. I also have a hoist and have tools readily accessible

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Should be from an H-6(XT6). You will need the XT6 clutch for that one.

 

The major components are engine-trans, exhaust-turbo. motor mounts, all vacuum lines, fuel lines, water hoses. The radiator will have to come out as well. Do you have a manual for it yet? That should be the first purchase you make. Read it through and familiarize yourself with the components and methods in the descriptions. It will make it easier to have it on the fender than having to get on the computer.

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take a look here for some tips..

 

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

 

i recommend removing the motor, so you can service the timing belts and such if it needs it. seems the guy you bought it from knows his soobs, so he should know when the timing belts were last done

 

will the rx pressure plate bolt up to the tranny? the spline for the xt 5spd is the same as the RX clutch disc.

 

i would think the rx pressure plate will bolt up to the xt6 flywheel, but i cant tell u fo sure

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get a hoist if you can. i just did a clutch job in my 88 gl last week.

the engine comes out fairly easy. like previosly stated, the hard part is lining it up when putting it back in. you wil need a jack of some type to hold the transmission up. you can use a come-along attatched to a joist if you don't have access to a hoist.

i'd never pulled an engine before and i'm not really a mechanic and took me 5 hours to have it all unhooked and unbolted and lifted out and clutch pulled. the only problem i encountered on the ea82 is the disty side engine mount. what a beeatch. i found it easiest to unbolt the mount from the bottom and leave the motor mout connected on that side.

 

have fun. and patience

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the engine mounts have studs that come thru the crossmember, and there is a 14mm nut for each side, just behind the exhaust pipes. if you drop the pipes first, they will be easier to get, the mouns will stay with the motor when it comes out.

 

jack up the tranny to raise the motor enough that the mounts come out of there holes. then the motor slides forward.

 

i strongly recommend removing the clutch fan furst, the n radiator.

remove the clutch fan with a 10mm wrench and a 7/8 wrench(to hold the fan shaft still)

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kamikaze, i'd suggest that if you jack up the tranny, that you unbolt the two 14mm nuts holding the tranny mounts to the crossmember so the mounts don't get stretched or torn.

this might also be a good time to check and/or flush your radiator since it'll be out. and if you have problems with the exhaust bolts, do a search here for "helicoil" and you'll find instructions, i'm sure, on how to redo the exhaust studs; they're pretty easy.

 

you don't have to completely remove the engine if you pull the radiator and fans; there will be enough room to slide it forward and do all the clutch and rear main seal stuff.

 

also, go to the dealership and buy the two pins that hold the throwout bearing to the fork. they're less than $2 each which leaves no excuse in my book :D not to replace them. good luck!

 

maroon: (heheh) the clutch fan should be bolted to your water pump pulley. the clutch part is the metal finned center piece that the plastic blades attach to. when the car gets going fast enough, say freeway speeds, the air coming into the engine bay thru the radiator will be moving as fast or faster than the fan itself. the clutch will let go of the blades so that the pulley still turns the center, but the blades don't move much at all; this saves horsepower (drag) and allows for smoother airflow thru the radiator as the fan would cause a high pressure zone due to turbulence, keeping the air from actually flowing thru the radiator.

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