6 replies to this topic

[gofargogo]

Car: 2001 Outback wagon 2.5, MT 112k mi.

I went to start my wagon today, and the lights on the dash kind of came on. Then everything went dead when I turned the key, but there was some clicking under the dash that felt like the fuse/relay block. I turned the key to acc, and wiggled the block and then all the dash lights came on correctly and the security got reset and the alarm went off (horn blasting). I de-armed the system, and tried again. Basically the same result. More clicking from under the dash, and over by the glove box, the key-chime sounded like it was dying, and no start.

I checked the battery (12.8v), and then charged it with a battery tender. Still no start, same symptoms. If I wiggle the fuse block and get all the dash lights powered up, and then tap the brake peddle, everything dies again.

I cleaned the terminals (they were plenty tight), and removed all teh fuses for sub-systems I didn't need (alarm, radio, interior lights, etc). Same symptoms.

The battery is old (I've had the car 3 years/50k and it came with the car), but it seems to me that the symptoms are of a short/bad connections. What am I missing? Could it be just the battery?

I'm short on funds at the moment and really don't want to be buying stuff I don't have to.

Any ideas?

[GeneralDisorder]

You need to do a battery load test before you do anything else. It definitely could be just a dead battery. Try jumping it from another car if you can't get to a parts place with a load tester. Nearly all auto parts stores will test batterys for free.

GD

[hohieu]

You mentioned the connections to the battery are clean. Is it the orginal battery? As already mentioned by GD, you should go ahead and have it tested.

The rapid clicking you heard was probably the solenoid cycling on and off. The solenoid is integrated into the starter assembly these days and supplies voltage to the starter motor, which requires a high electrical load to turn the engine. When actuated, this causes the voltage in the battery to drop, and with a bad battery, drop to an insufficient level to hold the solenoid switch closed. When this happens, power to the starter motor cuts off, the battery recovers, and the process repeats itself.

Poor connections to the battery and/or internal corrosion in the starter lead (cable from the postive terminal on the battery to the starter solenoid), can also cause these symtoms, but I'm guessing it's your battery.

[nipper]

You mentioned the connections to the battery are clean. Is it the orginal battery? As already mentioned by GD, you should go ahead and have it tested.

The rapid clicking you heard was probably the solenoid cycling on and off. The solenoid is integrated into the starter assembly these days and supplies voltage to the starter motor, which requires a high electrical load to turn the engine. When actuated, this causes the voltage in the battery to drop, and with a bad battery, drop to an inssuficient level to hold the solenoid switch closed. When this happens, power to the starter motor cuts off, the battery recovers, and the process repeats itself.

Poor connections to the battery and/or internal corrosion in the starter lead (positive wire from the postive terminal on the battery to the starter solenoid), can also cause these symtoms, but I'm guessing it's your battery.

Starter solenoid contacts like he said, but really first thing is first, have the batery tested. The car is old enough to need one.

nipper

[Cougar]

Since moving the fuse panel around under the dash things changed it sounds to me that there is a connection problem to that fuse panel in the buss wire going to the main panel under the hood. Another possibility is one of the relays in the panel may be bad.

[gofargogo]

Update: it was the battery. I guess this is the first time I've had to replace a battery in a 'modern' car, so it's failure mode seemed weird to me. But shiny new battery, cleaned contacts and the Wagon has been running like a top. Thanks!

[Cougar]

Good deal. Thanks for the update.