Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Transfer Clutch Solenoid Replacement


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Firedawg75

Firedawg75

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Vancouver, WA

Posted 08 January 2004 - 01:04 AM

Just found this site today- Excellent I must say!

'99 SUS (2.5L/4EAT) 71,700 mi
I've got the famous clunking noise when negotiating a tight turn(left AND right). I've spent most of this evening searching and reading other posts on this subject, and now I'm wondering why we still have this problem in '99 models? Maybe it's just a normal wear and tear induced failure? I'm not so sure.

Last week I spent the majority of one day diagnosing and changing fluids, etc. I found nothing wrong with any CV joints, boots, seals, mounts, U-joints, exhaust hangers, suspension components, etc. I also changed the the front & rear diff fluids with 85w/90, ATF with Subaru ATF, and fresh engine oil and filter. The ONLY leak on this entire vehicle is on both sides of the front diff- leaking from the diff itself, not the CV boots. The leak is very minor. So I took it to my dealer and had a technician ride along as we did figure 8's in the parking lot. He said it "might be something center diff related". OK....so I set a service appt. I show up this morning for the appt, they check it out and say "it's your transfer clutch solenoid". I have them figure up all the cost breakdown, yada yada, and then call the "War Dept." for authorization. Turns out they couldn't do it because they are missing one of the two gaskets that go on both sides of the metal plate. I've got all the parts in my hand except the second gasket(on order).

Compared to everyone else on this board, my dealer quoted me an outstanding price- approx $430 including tax. They said it's a 2.3 hr job($85 shop rate), parts were a $167. So if I do it myself I save at least $170. My Dealer is wongleflute Hannah Subaru in Vancouver, WA.


Parts I have:
2 exhaust manifold gaskets
1 transfer clutch solenoid w/ metal plate and one gasket- second on order
1 extension housing gasket- resembles a tranny pan gasket

So....... I'm getting ready to tackle the job of replacing the transfer clutch solenoid myself. Sounds pretty straight forward to me. Correct me if I'm wrong in explaining what I think is involved.
1) drop the exhaust
2) drop the driveline
3) drain ATF
4) unbolt the extension housing from rear of tranny(appears to be 13 bolts or so) being cautious of anything that may want to fall out of place
5) remove old solenoid, metal plate and gaskets
6) install new solenoid in the EXTENSION HOUSING in this order: gasket/plate/gasket/solenoid
7) reinstall extension housing w/ new gasket
8) the rest is self explanetary

Does this sound 'bout right?

Thanks guys!
Eric

#2 Legacy777

Legacy777

    Moderator

  • Moderator
  • 12,609 posts
  • Houston, Tx

Posted 08 January 2004 - 09:29 AM

Procedure sounds right.

Before you go doing this though, lemme ask you a question? Have you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and performed the same figure 8 maneuvers?

This really won't tell you what part of the rear power transfer system is bad, but it will definitely tell you it's related to it.

The duty c solenoid (aka transfer clutch solenoid) can go bad, but there's also a possibility the clutches themself may be worn. Only problem is you don't really know until you take them apart, and I don't think you will be really taking them out when taking the rear extension housing off.

here's some scans from the fsm that may help give you a better picture.

http://www.main.expe...fer_system1.jpg
http://www.main.expe...fer_system2.jpg
http://www.main.expe...fer_system3.jpg

Sounds like your dealer is pretty good, so I'd probably say go ahead with swapping the solenoid out and see if that fixes your problem.

#3 Firedawg75

Firedawg75

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts
  • Vancouver, WA

Posted 09 January 2004 - 03:17 AM

Have you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and performed the same figure 8 maneuvers?



No...not yet. Was planning to do that tomorrow. Min 15 amp in the holder, and if the torque bind still occurs then the solenoid is not the problem.......correct?

also a possibility the clutches themself may be worn. Only problem is you don't really know until you take them apart, and I don't think you will be really taking them out when taking the rear extension housing off.



I was planning to take a look at those during surgery- if it's not a pain in the arse. I doubt they're worn out, but I'd still like to see for myself. The Lead Subaru Tech with 24 yrs of Subaru experience says they should be just fine, BUT like you said; you don't really know until you take it apart.

here's some scans from the fsm that may help give you a better picture.



Thanks! Those will come in handy. I saw you posted them in a previous, but related thread. However, I can't get them to print correctly. The words keep getting cut off on the right hand margin. I need it to print "landscape", but the pdf won't do it.

Sounds like your dealer is pretty good, so I'd probably say go ahead with swapping the solenoid out and see if that fixes your problem.



After I try the fuse in the holder test, I'll report back to this thread. So far, my dealer has been really helpful. Thanks!

Eric

#4 Legacy777

Legacy777

    Moderator

  • Moderator
  • 12,609 posts
  • Houston, Tx

Posted 09 January 2004 - 09:15 AM

No...not yet. Was planning to do that tomorrow. Min 15 amp in the holder, and if the torque bind still occurs then the solenoid is not the problem.......correct?



Correct. If you still have torque bind with the fuse in....you got some other weird issues...

#5 watson199

watson199

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • detroit lakes

Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:20 PM

where did u buy ur solenoid from because i cant find a place on the internet and someone told my friend that its 400 bucks just in parts.

#6 ericem

ericem

    First Gen Legacy Master

  • Members
  • 2,477 posts
  • CANADA Maple,ON

Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:53 PM

If you put the fuse in and you still have torque bind it definitely tells you the solenoid is indeed DEAD.

#7 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 9,104 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 07 April 2010 - 10:29 AM

Correct. If you still have torque bind with the fuse in....you got some other weird issues...


No that's isn't true.

If the Torque bind went away with the fuse, then obviously the Transfer solenoid is working.

In that case, you may have a problem in the TCU.

If the Fuse makes no difference, then you can assume that the Duty C is not capable of opening to drain off pressure and unlock the AWD.





And Also, the transfer clutches are Completely accesible while you have the tailsection off. I would recommend removing the retainer clip, and pulling the plates to inspect them. Heck they are pretty cheap to replace. Take a die grinder to teh notches ont eh transfer hub before reinstallation.

#8 Chim-

Chim-

    New User

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • Northwest

Posted 06 August 2010 - 10:33 AM

No that's isn't true.

If the Torque bind went away with the fuse, then obviously the Transfer solenoid is working.

In that case, you may have a problem in the TCU.

If the Fuse makes no difference, then you can assume that the Duty C is not capable of opening to drain off pressure and unlock the AWD.





And Also, the transfer clutches are Completely accesible while you have the tailsection off. I would recommend removing the retainer clip, and pulling the plates to inspect them. Heck they are pretty cheap to replace. Take a die grinder to teh notches ont eh transfer hub before reinstallation.


Sorry to bring this back from the dead... but Im getting ready to replace this solenoid... What part are you talking about grinding?

Also.. where is the clutch pack accessible from when the tail section is off?

Sorry.. Im a total noob when it comes to subarus

#9 porcupine73

porcupine73

    Obligate carnivore

  • Members
  • 4,920 posts
  • Buffalo, NY

Posted 06 August 2010 - 08:04 PM

Posted Image




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users