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always loose castle nut!
Posted 11 January 2004 - 03:19 PM
Anyway, I tightened it, all was good. I drove it for about a week, and out of curiousity, I checked the nut again. It was loose again! the cotter pin was installed, so I know the nut can't travel far. What is the deal? I think from all the years of the nut being loose, and the wheel vibrating back and fourth, chewed up the splines on either the rotor, or the shaft. I guess I will have to pull the disk and all to find out. All the parts seem to be there, a donut looking thing, with a split in it, I guess its the "center peice" as my book calls it, as you tighted the castle nut, it gets pushed in, and keeps the rotor centered, and a thick washer between that and the nut.
What do you guys think? Pull the rotor? with the car on the ground, I can push the car down and let it come back up, and the right wheel makes a metal on metal groaning noise, so I know it is still loose. I can also be driving, have my foot of the clutch at low speeds (I noticed this at the wal-mart parking lot) and the right wheel makes a rythmic metal groaning sound. When I push in the clutch, it goes away, so I figure, in the presence of torque, the shaft is moving around in there. I am really concerned about this. What shoud l I do?
Sorry for the long post.
Posted 11 January 2004 - 03:24 PM
Posted 11 January 2004 - 04:17 PM
Posted 11 January 2004 - 07:17 PM
Posted 11 January 2004 - 09:14 PM
why it does this-
there is a cone washer, a curved washer and a castleated nut with a coter pin.
the cone washer starts to wear out (from friction or something..) becase the curved washer needs to be installed one way only, if it is installed wrong, or is not the right kind of washer, it will cause the nut to back off, and wear out the cone washer.
how to fix-
get a new cone washer, and a new curved washer. check to make sure hub is not stripped out. grease it all up with wheel bearing grease, or anti-seize (whichever one you prefer) and install the curved washer correctly.
I am not 100% sure which way the cone washer is supposed to be installed, but it should be with the convex side facing outward.
then when you tighten it down, you dont need to over tighten it, but make sure you can get a nice fat cotter pin in there
this should help! (seems to be a common problem)
it even happened to me yesterday (same symptoms too!!!)
Posted 12 January 2004 - 03:31 PM
Posted 12 January 2004 - 04:01 PM
Posted 12 January 2004 - 04:45 PM
Posted 12 January 2004 - 06:08 PM
I found a good set of hubs and ordered new cones. I didn't replace the washer, but turned them correctly around and torqued to #145.
BTW, I would highly recommend SUPER-RUPAIR in Boulder, Colorado for some of you parts needs. These guys have been great for me and their prices very fare. The hubs I got from them were just fine and only $20. ea.
Check em out.
Posted 12 January 2004 - 09:00 PM
Posted 13 January 2004 - 03:08 AM
Posted 13 January 2004 - 07:03 PM
Which way is the flat spring washer supposed to be installed??
If you look at them from the side, they are slightly cone shaped too. I always put them on with the larger side out. Is that correct?
Posted 14 January 2004 - 01:47 PM
BTW, I have one good hub that I just purchased used. It is in very nice condition. I bought two but only used one. (sold car)
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