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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1988 Hitachi'd EA82 GL wagon project


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46 replies to this topic

#26 Gloyale

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 11:04 AM

I think pretty much every Hitachi carb made in that era has a sight glass. I know the one's on the Suzuki Samurai's had them as well.


IDK.....I started in Subies with Carbed EA82s.....then when I got my first EA81 I was excited to see that setting float levels would eb so much easier with the sight glass.

I really don't think most EA82 carbs had the sight glass.......but I digress.......

To the OP.......you do know you need to swap you're disty out to a conventional one, right? it won't run off that 4 wire optical one in the car......espescially without a harness or ECU!

#27 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 11:21 AM

To the OP.......you do know you need to swap you're disty out to a conventional one, right? it won't run off that 4 wire optical one in the car......espescially without a harness or ECU!


I think he bought the car (running) with that carb setup already on it. The swap seems to have been done by the previous owners.

As for the sight glass - I don't think I have any EA82 carbs around here to look at. I have a single EA81 Hitachi that I keep for no good reason at all - it's a spare and I've rebuilt it so on the shelf it sits.....

GD

#28 sprale

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 04:46 PM

And please please for the love of god get some car ramps and ditch the cynder blocks.


I had loaned my ramps out that weekend. :rolleyes: It's in my garage now, just took it off the jack stands. Hopefully it'll be sorted out enough in the near future to be moved under it's own power again.

I'll take the carb off and check to see what I missed. This is the first full carb rebuild I've done on a car, I'm generally working on bikes. I don't think it can be mounted 180°, as the alternator is too close. It may be an EA81 intake and carb, but I wouldn't know the difference, this is my first Soob. I'm just happy to have it back together and able to crank over again. Sorting out carb and fuel issues is nothing compared to the work done already.

#29 Quidam

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Posted 23 August 2009 - 10:16 PM

Hey sprale,

Keep the updates comming.

Doug

#30 sprale

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 06:12 PM

I've finally sorted out what I did wrong, minor goof. I forgot to put the plugs back on the bottom of the carb, hence the fuel dump...

I'm more excited at the ability to crank it over again after being in parts for so long. I've been feeding fresh fuel into the carb this afternoon with no results, yet. Still no fire (no spark), but I'm working backwards now. Got it on the charger to make up for it when resting.

I'll post some pics of the base of the carb and the intake. The carb is modified to fit.

Thanks again for everyone's input and guidance. I really appreciate it! A second baby (son) due in November means little money or time for the Soob, but I refuse to scrap it. With proper funds, I'd love to turn it into a GL-10, but nothing other than practical work is going to be able to be done to it for a while...

Edited by sprale, 07 September 2009 - 06:20 PM.


#31 sprale

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 09:39 PM

Posted Image

Here's the carb from below showing the modified base to fit the manifold. Maybe this will give some indication of it's origin.

Posted Image

Here's the holes for the two plugs I forgot to reinstall, done now. Next it's on to the electrical to see why it's getting no spark.

#32 Ned P Pritchard

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Posted 07 September 2009 - 10:52 PM

Big rats ;

#33 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 08 September 2009 - 12:54 AM

Looks like an EA81 carb that had the holes on the baseplate slotted out to fit an EA82 Carb'ed manifold. I would swap a Weber on there if you arent going back to SPFI, I would not run that carb... the slots on the baseplate are just too much for me to like it.

-Bill

#34 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 08:28 AM

I'd love to have the extra cash to throw at it, but don't right now. I've seen Webers on eBay and heard lots of good things about them.

The carb is finally back to where it should be, now I need to work on getting spark. I have a spare coil, I may also need a disty cap. It's rainy this weekend, so I'll probably spend some time in the garage with some Shiners.

#35 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 10:20 AM

Wow.

That, my friend, is sad.

Get a proper EA82 carb at least. Someone on here will probably send you one free as a charity offering.

That carb is too small for that engine and that modified base will not likely hold gaskets well.

Whatever tractor mechanic did that should have his tool-belt taken away.

GD

#36 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 10:48 AM

Wow.

That, my friend, is sad.

Get a proper EA82 carb at least. Someone on here will probably send you one free as a charity offering.

That carb is too small for that engine and that modified base will not likely hold gaskets well.

Whatever tractor mechanic did that should have his tool-belt taken away.

GD


Great idea! Anyone wanting to donate to the GL fund, send me a PM! :lol:

I may actually swap out the carb later.

For now, I'm not getting spark at the coil, so I'm going to swap it out for a spare and see if that works.

I also see two vacuum ports on the disty vacuum advance unit, but they weren't connected when I got the car. I can't tell where they should go from the manual, I'll add a photo later. I think one port may go to the intake manifold. Also, where does the EGR vacuum line end up?

Edited by sprale, 12 September 2009 - 10:52 AM.


#37 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 11:15 AM

With the ignition on, do you have 12v at the coil + side? If so, what are the ohm readings of the primary and secondary windings?

The vac advance you will only use one of the ports. The other will not be used as it is a vacuum "retard" function used for the computer controlled feedback carburetors. Put a line on each and suck on it - whichever one moves the actuator more/father will be the one you use. Leave the other one open to atmosphere as a vent. The one you do use will hook into the front of the carb to "ported vacuum" which will be a port connecting right above the main throttle plate - so that just as the throttle plate opens the vacuum advance receives a signal.

The EGR hooks to "late ported vacuum" which is another port on the front of the carb but just slightly higher than the distributor port.

GD

#38 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 12:58 PM

Here's the vacuum advance unit ports. I'll follow your tips, GD, but I need to pick up a few feet of vacuum line first. I appreciate it!
Posted Image

I'm not extremely experienced with electricals (my strengths lie elsewhere), but I can follow directions well. I borrowed a volt meter, what am I looking for?
Posted Image

#39 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 01:30 PM

Set it to the "20" on the DCV section - black lead on the negative battery terminal and the red lead on the positive coil terminal - you should see battery voltage or close to it with the ignition on.

If you don't then you have a power supply issue.

If you do then you need to test the coil itself - set the meter to the "20k" on the Omega (upside down horseshoe) section. Check the resistance between the positive and negative terminals and write it down. Then check the resistance between the posistive terminal and the plug wire connection point (the wire that goes to the distributor cap). Write that down as well - you may have to use the "2k" setting to get a good reading on one or the other of them. One should be around 5,000 to 20,000 Ohms (maybe higher, in which case you would have to use the 200k scale). The other will be 1 to 2 Ohms. Somewhere in there anyway. If those readings are in that range you should get spark from that coil.

GD

#40 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 01:52 PM

GD, I get nothing testing between the coil and the battery.

Testing the coil I get: @ 20k ohms ~12.50, nothing at 2k ohms

I appreciate you helping out on this. Funny thing, it's raining for days solid after almost 2 months of drought in central TX, radar looks clear up in the NW :/ So I'm working on the Soob instead of riding the motorbike today...

-Levon

#41 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 02:10 PM

Ok - so that would be 12,500 Ohms on the secondary. At the 2K setting you need to test between one of the threaded terminals and down in the coil wire tower (down inside where the wire to the distributor cap connects to the coil).

So with the ignition ON you get no voltage to the coil? That's either a problem with the fusible links, the fuses, or the ignition switch/circuit. Check the fusible links (in the black box on the side the of coolant overflow bottle) - put the DMM on the 2K setting and check that you have continuity on each of the links (with them removed) and then check that their connections are clean and tight. Then check all the cabin fuses. From there we will have to start troubleshooting the ignition circuit....

GD

#42 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 02:13 PM

I appreciate you helping out on this. Funny thing, it's raining for days solid after almost 2 months of drought in central TX, radar looks clear up in the NW :/ So I'm working on the Soob instead of riding the motorbike today...


Yeah - today is lazy for me. It's my birthday and I think the woman is dragging me out of the house.... I may be leaving shortly so I might not get another reply in. If not maybe someone else can help or I'll be back later. I'll try to check from my phone....

GD

#43 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 02:38 PM

Yeah - today is lazy for me. It's my birthday and I think the woman is dragging me out of the house.... I may be leaving shortly so I might not get another reply in. If not maybe someone else can help or I'll be back later. I'll try to check from my phone....

GD


Dude, happy birthday, get out and enjoy it. The Soob will be around to keep me busy. I'll try your suggestions and post back. Until then, enjoy it old man!

#44 sprale

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 05:07 PM

Ok - so that would be 12,500 Ohms on the secondary. At the 2K setting you need to test between one of the threaded terminals and down in the coil wire tower (down inside where the wire to the distributor cap connects to the coil).

So with the ignition ON you get no voltage to the coil? That's either a problem with the fusible links, the fuses, or the ignition switch/circuit. Check the fusible links (in the black box on the side the of coolant overflow bottle) - put the DMM on the 2K setting and check that you have continuity on each of the links (with them removed) and then check that their connections are clean and tight. Then check all the cabin fuses. From there we will have to start troubleshooting the ignition circuit....

GD


The fusible links display zero at 2K ohms. All interior fuses are okay.

#45 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 06:39 PM

Ok - first - how is the battery and what works/doesn't work on the car right now. Does ANYTHING happen when you turn the key on? I'm assuming that since you were looking for spark that the crank circuit is ok but how are the rest of the accesory circuits?

There is a main feed wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box - it supplies one whole side of the box with 12v - so you should have 12v on one side of each of the fusible links. Sounds like the links are ok - 0 means there is no resistance (0 Ohms) and that's as it should be with them.

First we have to determine if the ignition switch is good and if there is voltage to the switch.....

One thing just occured to me - the folks that redid this engine as a carb (bless their wretched soul's) could have wired it in all kinds of funky ways. Perhaps a good picture of the coil area would help me to see what has been done and try to direct you further. We are working with a kludged together system and there won't be a wireing diagram in any book for it. So it's going to be a guess and check sort of deal and although you don't know much about the electrical side of things now..... you will before this is done I suspect. :)

GD

#46 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 01:19 AM

If you would be interested in the correct carb for your car, I have more than a couple layin around, they ran fine when I pulled them, id let one go for $5 plus shipping...

-Bill

#47 sprale

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 11:04 AM

Ok - first - how is the battery and what works/doesn't work on the car right now. Does ANYTHING happen when you turn the key on? I'm assuming that since you were looking for spark that the crank circuit is ok but how are the rest of the accesory circuits?

There is a main feed wire from the positive battery terminal to the fusible link box - it supplies one whole side of the box with 12v - so you should have 12v on one side of each of the fusible links. Sounds like the links are ok - 0 means there is no resistance (0 Ohms) and that's as it should be with them.

First we have to determine if the ignition switch is good and if there is voltage to the switch.....

One thing just occured to me - the folks that redid this engine as a carb (bless their wretched soul's) could have wired it in all kinds of funky ways. Perhaps a good picture of the coil area would help me to see what has been done and try to direct you further. We are working with a kludged together system and there won't be a wireing diagram in any book for it. So it's going to be a guess and check sort of deal and although you don't know much about the electrical side of things now..... you will before this is done I suspect. :)

GD


GD, everything else seems to work properly; lights, radio, starter, windows, mirrors, horn. The fan controls don't seem to work, but I'm not sure if it did originally. I'll take a handful of photos and post them in a bit.

If you would be interested in the correct carb for your car, I have more than a couple layin around, they ran fine when I pulled them, id let one go for $5 plus shipping...

-Bill


Bill, I appreciate it. PM on the way. :banana:




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