Ozsubie Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 Has anyone had any experience with Valvoline Oil Filters. My EA82T has developed very light lifter tick and the only thing I can think of that co-incided with the tick starting was the last oil/filter change. The oil is the same as I always use, but the shop was out of stock of the normal oil filter that I usually buy, so I bought a Valvoline Filter instead. The lifter noise isn't bad, you can't hear it in the car, and it isn't enough to worry the knock sensor, but it is noticeable standing outside the car. Incidently the lifters are always dead silent at start-up and only start ticking after running 15 - 30 seconds. Could the oil filter be causing this, just wondering what others think before I go out and buy another filter to put on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ma-fia Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 I wish I could help you directly, but I haven't even heard of Valvoline oil filters! What do you normally use? I've been researching filters lately and came to the conclusion that now on I will buy only Wix: they all seem to have an anti-drainback valve, which is a very good thing to have. Apparently Motorcraft does, too, but Wix is more reputable from what I hear. Fram is garbage according to many. Purolator is decent, but they offer 3 different lines, only the top one has anti-drainback valve, and nobody has it for any of my cars... I know this is not exactly what you were asking for, but I just HAD to share my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 factory subaru oil filters are reasonbable at around $6 each and are of better quality than most parts store brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 napa 1361 silver and gold filters are good. i read somewhere that napa oil is actually valvoline. maybe a valvoline filter comes from the same manufacturer of the napa filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 puralator..... 3.79 at fred meyer... best filter ever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samo Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 On my previous car, I used nothing but the top-of-the-line Puralator filter with Mobil 1 10W30 syn. Of course, my Subaru is far too old for synthetic, but she still gets a Puralator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ma-fia Posted January 13, 2004 Share Posted January 13, 2004 Samo, why do you say your Sub is too old for synthetic oil? Any reason in particular? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozsubie Posted January 13, 2004 Author Share Posted January 13, 2004 Thanks for the comments. I'm in Australia and normally use a Ryco filter and have never had problems with them. The valvoline filter has made in USA on the box, but that's about all the info it gives. Searching on the internet it seems Fram and Valvoline are quite often mentioned together, so I'm guessing the Valvoline may be a re-badged Fram. I'm getting the general impression Fram is not highly regarded so I'll probably ditch this filter in the next couple of days and go back to my regular Ryco filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ma-fia Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 I've never heard of Ryco filters... Well, that's not surprising after all. "Searching on the internet it seems Fram and Valvoline are quite often mentioned together, so I'm guessing the Valvoline may be a re-badged Fram" Hmm, if that's true, I'd stay away from both! I've heard from some people that additives in valvoline oil can cause more rust in the engine. It's just a hear-say, I don't have any personal experience with V., as I never used it. I was rather disappointed to find out that Fram wasn't as good as I used to think it was. I still have a used one and one day I'm going to cut it open along with a purolator and see for myself what's inside! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 go to napa they should have that done on display.. Napa filters are supposedly puralator filters... Huge difference.. Fram filters are like a filter made with toiletpaper for the filter Napa's here more like a filter maid from card board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ma-fia Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Thanks for the idea, Torxxx. I think I will, when I have time. However I still want to see for myself as well -- I have a tendency not to trust "interested" parties 100%. Obviously Napa sells filters, so they want to prove that what THEY sell is better than everything else. (Just look at those small plastic gear set-ups with Lucas -- you'd think that s..tuff will solve all your problems! -- getting carried away again -- Sorry OZSubie) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XSNRG Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Never use a Fram filter, they are made out of recycled toilet paper. If you want to find out how good a filter is cut it open and take a look. I cut a few open and they ALL looked OK except the POS Fram filter!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Many of you may remember the study done on oil filters (cutting them in half comparing filter media, anti drain back valves ect) The site has been moved and it does take some time to read, but if you are interested in it here it is http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ma-fia Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Skip, I was asking around for this page a while ago, because I saw it mentioned a few times, but nobody answered that particular question than; thanks for posting it. XSNRG, what did you cut them with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Okay, maybe this is only true of EJ-series engines, but the oil filter screws on from below, negating the need for a drain-back valve. The oil will stay in the filter. This has the added advantage that you can "prime" the filter at oil changes, ie. fill it up with fresh oil before you screw it on. I use Sube filters, and there is no drain back valve. Made by Purolator btw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Sorry Setright I think if you take the time to read the filter study you will find Purolater (the manufacturer for FHI as you say) does indeed use an antidrain back valve as quoted " a nitrile rubber diaphram-type anti-drainback valve, which doubles as the seal between the backplate and the cartridge." Our cars DO need the anti drain back valve. I do not believe it has anything to do with the mounting orientation of the filter, I may be wrong but the antidrain back keeps our oil galleries full, esp the lifter galleries. BTW The guys that don't fill there oil filter are just too lazy or too spastic to do it, I pre fill mine every time I change oil. I loose maybe an oz. but it is worth it to me so that my upper oil lubed parts do not see an air bubble (again the lifters come to mind) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intrigueing Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 I believe napa filters are made by WIX - not Purolator and are still excellent filters. The anti-drainback will help hold oil higher in the engine, and keeps the dirty filtered particles from being flushed back into the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Skip, could you explain to me how that valve works then? All I have found in the filter is a by-pass valve. Also, how come it isn't lifter-click city at the start up after an oil change? Without the filter in, the oil drains back right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Setright, the ADV is just under the openings you see around the perimeter of the screwed on end of the filter. It acts as a check valve when the oil pump is not pumping. The "state of the art" seals are now made of silicone instead of the nitrile rubber now used in many filters. I did get some clicky clack when I didn't fill the filter. That is one reason I do fill the filter. It does take several "fillings". I did a small Goggle search on the ADV and here is the result. Several links speak of noises attributed to poorly designed ADVs. BTW Wix are very good filters and are made by Dana Corp. Here is the link should you care to investigate further. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&q=anti+drainback+valve&spell=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Skip, there is no rubber valve under the inlet holes in the Sube filters I install. For sure. Oil runs out from these holes when I prime it to the brim. The Subaru tech info on the EJ series says the oil pump is designed to hold oil, so that it's always primed, even after not running for a long time. I would suggest that in conjuction with the filter orientation, that function negates the need for the ADV. Furthermore the oil galleries that serve the Hydraulic Lash Adjusters are formed to separate air bubbles before they enter the HLA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skip Posted January 14, 2004 Share Posted January 14, 2004 Setright, this is starting to border on post trampling, perhaps we should continue it under it's own thread. Please see "Oil filters and the ADV" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 Getting back to your original question, Ozsubie, I can't see the filter causing your lifters to tick - more likely something is partially blocking your lash adjuster and it showed up due to the oil change. But the first thing to try is to go back to your preferred brand of filter; however, when you dump the oil, you MIGHT cure the problem and it not be the filter that fixed it (Mr mechanic, you changed my oil and now my taillight is burned out! You should fix it for free!). Otherwise, either try the treatments you will find here for lifter tick or live with it like many of us! P.S. Napa gold filters are by Wix, and silver filters are sold by Wix but are apparantly manufactured by an el-cheapo company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 ticking - next oil change drain out 1 quart dirty oil, dump in a quart of ATF fluid. Go drive for 20 to 30 min then change oil my valve lashers haven't tick'd since then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Partsman Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 But don't rev too much! ATF is nasty stuff. The engine flush that I sell (which is along the same lines) tells you to just idle the car and not to drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XSNRG Posted January 15, 2004 Share Posted January 15, 2004 I used a hack saw to open up the filters, my biggest tubing cutter wasn't quite big enough. I cut carefully around the filter near the end that screws to the pump. Since then, I've cut open some used filters off different cars and I can tell you that is quite interesting too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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