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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

88 GL-10 EA82T auto Transmission case & shaft


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30 replies to this topic

#1 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:22 PM

Hi,

With reference to my previous thread: http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=94264

I got the car back home, and took a bunch of parts off. It was time consuming but fortunately everything was reasonably accessible, with the help of my Haynes manual.

Here are some pictures:

Posted Image

#2 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:23 PM

The transmission seems to be in good shape:

Posted Image

#3 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:24 PM

The interior of the case seems undamaged too.

Posted Image

#4 bratman18

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:25 PM

So what you need to do is just get another one of these tailshaft housings and bolt it on! And then fix that shifter cable, and the drive shaft and you'd be good to go!

#5 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:26 PM

The shifter cable is bent. Should it be straight? Should I just straighten it? Since I don't think I should take the transmission out, it might be a real chore to replace it.

Posted Image

#6 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:27 PM

The drive shaft is toast. AT end of the U joint:

Posted Image

Edited by M45, 06 January 2009 - 02:28 PM.
Added picture


#7 bratman18

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:27 PM

Yes I believe it should be straight. If you can straighten it, then it should work. I would try that before replacing it. And then replace the u-joint!

#8 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 02:29 PM

Drive shaft U Joint rear part:

Posted Image

#9 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 03:02 PM

You need a new tailhousing and driveshaft, and maybe a new shifter cable. It really isnt that hard to replace the cable, just a couple bolts and 2 pins. You just missed out, I just sold a tailhousing that you need to another guy with the same thing happened. Good luck!
-Bill

#10 Gloyale

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 03:35 PM

Have you had luck finding a tailshaft?

You can use a tailshaft off of any pre 98 4eat. However, the mounts are different and you have to drill the crossmember. Also it amkes a tighter fit in the tunnel and makes a knock when decelerating if the mounts aren't really sturdy.

If you preffer, and can wait for shipping, I have an excact replacement from an 89 GL Turbo. Then you could reuse all you're mounts with no problems. I The trans is junk but I could ship you the tailshaft pretty easily. It's light without the steel in it. PM me for details if you want.

#11 john in KY

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 04:51 PM

That bent rod has a good amount of adjustibility. Just make sure the shifter is in sync with the transmission. By this I mean when eg the shifter indicates D, the transmission is in D and not say R.

#12 M45

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 10:52 PM

That bent rod has a good amount of adjustibility.


Glad to hear it. It sounds like if I can bend it at all to make it straighter, that might be enough, even if it isn't perfect.

Just make sure the shifter is in sync with the transmission. By this I mean when eg the shifter indicates D, the transmission is in D and not say R.


This could be important!

#13 M45

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 08:45 PM

Thanks to two USMB members, I have a rear transmission case and a driveshaft. Thank you!

I am having trouble finding a gasket for the case. I went to a Kragens and they directed me to a "filter kit" that they said would have the gasket. I'm thinking it might be the wrong gasket (probably the bottom pan gasket).

Kragen's online site via CKS / shop.oreillyauto.com seems to indicate that there might be an "A/T Case Gasket", but it is grayed out. They seem to have only a "Transmission Pan Gasket".

Somebody on a VIN thread said that NAPA was the only one that got parts right, but their site was completely clueless about 1988 Subaru models, giving me no options that make sense for GL-10 (not even Loyale or Legacy).

Googling for it or using Google Shopping results give me hits for pan gaskets or O-ring type seals or expensive transmission rebuild kits.

Do I have to buy raw gasket sheeting and cut my own?

#14 4x4_Welder

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:45 PM

I was just gonna use RTV -sparingly- on mine. I think that gasket is OEM only.

BTW, that driveshaft doesn't look bad compared to mine, and I reused mine with a slip yoke from TBID. Partsamerica.com has the universal joint, you just need to file out the stake spots.

Edited by 4x4_Welder, 19 January 2009 - 10:47 PM.


#15 presslab

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 10:47 AM

The case gasket is pn 31337AA120, about $5. If you want to, you could also get qty two pn 31954AA071; this is for the transfer valve "Duty C" gasket and pn 31946AA022; this is the filter for the transfer valve.

The dealer here in Santa Rosa had the gaskets in stock when I bought mine.


The case gasket is 0.4mm thick and is part of the end play calculation, so don't leave it out. Because you are replacing the extension housing, you should definitely check your end play. You might also need to purchase a different thrust bearing.

If you don't, it could ruin the thrust bearing and break off the transfer clutch hub. It has happened to others.
http://www.subaru-sv...ead.php?t=48505


Download this:
http://www.mshoup.us...Section_2&3.zip

Read section 3-2, page 135. It describes how to measure the end play.

Edited by presslab, 20 January 2009 - 12:50 PM.


#16 Skip

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 12:31 PM

all good info presslab

would you or anyone else be so kind as to
give reason for this canrage?
Posted Image

A flailing driveshaft would be behind this section.
and
What caused the driveshaft front yoke to gernade?

#17 bratman18

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 04:29 PM

That is a good question! Hopefully it's nothing internally in the tranny!

#18 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 07:42 PM

I would advise you not to use RTV on automatic trannies, ATF fluid eats sillicone like I eat pie, and you'll have a leak in no time
-Bill

#19 4x4_Welder

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 09:25 PM

I didn't realize the gasket was that readily available. I also realized I need a bearing as well, the needle bearing the nose of the output rides on. Don't know that they will have that one, but there are a couple good bearing shops around here that can cross a number.
Does anybody have a pic of how the park pawl and spring fits in there?

On edit:
The cause is a seized u-joint. Since these joints usually run at about 0º, the lubricant doesn't get moved around, and the joint just solidifies. This isn't noticed until the driveshaft or transmission moves a little, like getting on it hard, or a mount letting go, then the joint breaks free and wobbles off center for a while. Since the parts are so light and rubber mounted, the vibration isn't overly noticeable, so it continues and forces the now completely dry joint to flex a little, building heat until it totally fails. When the driveshaft gets far enough off center, the weight of the whipping force is more than the case can handle, and the case fails.
There's my latest crack at failure analysis.

Edited by 4x4_Welder, 20 January 2009 - 09:30 PM.


#20 Skip

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 09:32 PM

Ah Mr. (un) official smartass, I sincerely do not wish
to emulate your title
but
starting your own thread on these problems/issues
would be a wise idea.

#21 4x4_Welder

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Posted 20 January 2009 - 09:41 PM

I do have one, somewhere, but I was kinda working on the assumption that he had a similar problem.
The car I bought had done the same thing, I diag'ed it about two weeks before his failed.

#22 M45

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Posted 21 January 2009 - 12:41 AM

This what basicly happened. I moved to a new place up a long very steep hill. That may have stressed the driveshaft in ways it wasn't before.

would you or anyone else be so kind as to
give reason for this canrage? A flailing driveshaft would be behind this section. and What caused the driveshaft front yoke to gernade?


The cause is a seized u-joint. Since these joints usually run at about 0º, the lubricant doesn't get moved around, and the joint just solidifies. This isn't noticed until the driveshaft or transmission moves a little, like getting on it hard, or a mount letting go, then the joint breaks free and wobbles off center for a while. Since the parts are so light and rubber mounted, the vibration isn't overly noticeable, so it continues and forces the now completely dry joint to flex a little, building heat until it totally fails. When the driveshaft gets far enough off center, the weight of the whipping force is more than the case can handle, and the case fails. There's my latest crack at failure analysis.



#23 M45

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Posted 21 January 2009 - 12:48 AM

Thank you for the part number! The local dealer had it in stock and I got it at $5.80. They didn't have the other parts in stock.

I don't think I can easily check end play. I am going to proceed on the notion that the replacement case is an exact replacement and will work well because I'm not replacing the inner parts (as illustrated in the photo with the gears). Thanks for the repair manual and the link. I don't think there is any internal damage to the transmission. (I certainly hope it is all ok).

The case gasket is pn 31337AA120, about $5. If you want to, you could also get qty two pn 31954AA071; this is for the transfer valve "Duty C" gasket and pn 31946AA022; this is the filter for the transfer valve.

The case gasket is 0.4mm thick and is part of the end play calculation, so don't leave it out. Because you are replacing the extension housing, you should definitely check your end play. You might also need to purchase a different thrust bearing.

If you don't, it could ruin the thrust bearing and break off the transfer clutch hub. It has happened to others.
http://www.subaru-sv...ead.php?t=48505

Download this: http://www.mshoup.us...Section_2&3.zip Read section 3-2, page 135. It describes how to measure the end play.



#24 M45

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Posted 21 January 2009 - 12:54 AM

I would advise you not to use RTV on automatic trannies, ATF fluid eats sillicone like I eat pie, and you'll have a leak in no time


I got Permatex Sensor-Safe Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. I intend to use it sparingly as only a gasket sealant (I got the regulation gasket). There were many varieties of Permatex at Kragens. I think this will work fine and help if I use it very thinly, but should I have gotten something else? Is it possible to simply use the gasket with no sealer?

#25 4x4_Welder

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Posted 21 January 2009 - 08:16 PM

If you're using a gasket don't use any sealer. Maybe apply a thin layer of ATF-compatible grease if you think you might have to pull it apart again, but if the manufacturer doesn't say to use a sealer, put it in dry.




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