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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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88 GL-10 EA82T auto Transmission case & shaft


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30 replies to this topic

#26 The Beast I Drive

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 12:36 AM

^ Yes. Contrary to what some believe, adding RTV or sealer to every gasket install isnt always the best way to go. Certain gaskets are designed to work best dry.
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#27 presslab

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 01:42 AM

The gasket will work fine dry. I've been adding Permatex Copper Spray to my paper type gaskets, supposedly it makes them easier to remove later. I haven't removed any so I can't vouch for that, but I haven't had any leak on me.

In any case, make sure both surfaces are clean, clean, clean. This will go a long way to ensuring a leak free seal.

#28 M45

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 02:30 AM

If you're using a gasket don't use any sealer. Maybe apply a thin layer of ATF-compatible grease if you think you might have to pull it apart again, but if the manufacturer doesn't say to use a sealer, put it in dry.


You got me just in time. I was working on it today, but got a late start, so I didn't get to actually putting the gasket on. I had thought I might use a very thin layer of sealer, but based on your advice, I will install the gasket dry with no sealer. Thanks!

#29 M45

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 02:32 AM

The gasket will work fine dry. I've been adding Permatex Copper Spray to my paper type gaskets, supposedly it makes them easier to remove later. I haven't removed any so I can't vouch for that, but I haven't had any leak on me.

In any case, make sure both surfaces are clean, clean, clean. This will go a long way to ensuring a leak free seal.


They are clean. I scraped off the old gasket remains on the case I'm installing and I ran some 600 grit paper over it to make it very smooth and clean.

#30 M45

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 10:49 AM

I figured out how to get the shifter cable off. Here is the bend. Now I need to figure out how to unbend it! Also, the plate is warped, particularly at the top hole.

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#31 4x4_Welder

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Posted 22 January 2009 - 09:02 PM

For a quick and dirty cable fix, pull it out as far as you can, find the approximate center of the bend, and use a 12-14mm box end wrench to unbend it. Work gradually, and very carefully, so as not to kink or overbend it.
For the bracket, I would use a piece of round or square stock that will fit in the space (larger the better), and lay the flat side on an anvil or flat steel work surface. Hit the round/square stock with a hammer, and it'll flatten right back out.

On edit again:
That little caged needle bearing inside that clutch, take care of it. It's $145 from the dealer, and the number doesn't cross over to an NSK number. In fact, that whole number block where it's at is a reserved OEM block, not available aftermarket.

Edited by 4x4_Welder, 22 January 2009 - 09:06 PM.





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