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Yet another Sea Foam thread...


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29 replies to this topic

#1 MR_Loyale

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 01:19 AM

I am experiencing a ticking in my 93 Loyale. I am at 121K miles and about 4K miles ago I put in a brand new oil pump and mickey mouse seal (along with timing belt and water pump), so I know that can't be the cause.

I read some of the other threads here and went and got myself some SeaFoam to try in the oil. I also got a new oil filter just in case there was some sort of issue with the one I have on there now.

The oil has been regularly changed, but I haven't ever done any Seafoam or other induction/oil/injection cleaning. I have owned the car since new and I do recall at about 20K miles the dealer offered me a similar "service" for $80 but at the time I thought it was a scam.

My intent is to put Seafom in and drive from Bremerton to Portland and back (snag a powerball ticket while I am there). This will probably be around 400 miles and about 6 hours of driving. Is that too long to leave SeaFoam in the oil? I will be changing the oil Sunday.

#2 blindrummer

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 02:03 AM

yeah, too long in the oil
oil gets really thin from seafoam
run for 5 min and then drain and and fill oil
maybe add some oil additive???

#3 crash321

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 02:05 AM

This will probably be around 400 miles and about 6 hours of driving. Is that too long to leave SeaFoam in the oil? I will be changing the oil Sunday.


You will read on the bottle that you can put it in the oil. so it should not be a prob, just don't over do it IMHO

#4 subiemech85

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 02:23 AM

I used to add MMO to the oil at every change to help

#5 mountaingoatgruff

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 04:12 AM

i used to use seafoam in crankcases til i tried marvel mystery oil, its all i'll add to oil now. i still use seafoam as an upper cylinder cleaner though.

#6 Bucky92

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 04:31 AM

I have been using both seafoam and MMO for many many many years with my cars..and IMO they work best when added to the oil then putting a few hundred miles on it..usually within 500 miles of an oil change. With it being cold the thinning of the oil is almost a good thing...Just remember though..if you have a small oil leak..the thinner will make it appear to worsen .

My usual routine is...half a can in the gas tank and the remainder in the crank case and drive. My 92 Loyale used to LOVE both MMO and seafoam. Another alternative is to swap a quart of oil with a quart of ATF..it also has extremely good results.

#7 Frank B

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 05:08 AM

I used to get three bottles every time I bought a car, one for the gas tank, and one for the oil, and one down the intake, slowly,(back when it was $3.99 not $8). Followed by a tune up, never had a problem. Being made of "lighter" petroleum products, I would bet that most of it will evaporate after a few hundred miles anyway. The reason you want to change the oil after it's been in a while is to get the crap out of the engine that the sea foam dissolved. After that, use Rislone,
http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

#8 frompkin

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 11:02 AM

I've been reluctant to use seafoam in the oil, because I'm concerned that the carbon is what's holding the rings on my pistons together.

In the gas tank however... Is that a good thing to do with SPFI?

#9 blindrummer

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 12:48 PM

I am experiencing a ticking in my 93 Loyale. .


you probably have sticky lifters
seafoam in the oil might help
at least for me it did 20 second upon start up it stopped ticking and i let er run for 5 min and drained the oil
i use a half can, as reading the label will tell you it treats 10 quarts of oil
then refilled with one quart of marvel and topped it off, new oil filter as well
rest of the seafoam i put in the gas tank:)

#10 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 01:03 PM

Or your car could be like my RX. No matter what I do...MMO, SeaFoam, Risolone, or ATF...nothing makes it go away. I even took all the lifters apart and cleaned them. And replaced the oil pump too. I use Subaru oil filters. Full Synthetic, Synthetic blend, conventional oil. Mobil 1, Castrol, Penzoil, and Wal-Mart's super tech even. 10w-30, 20w-50, straight 30w are all things I've tried.

So I hope I'm not a downer. I'm going to replace the engine and then take the ticking one completely apart and investigate.

I think overheating had something to do with my ticking issue. I know the prior owner overheated it.

Edited by [HTi]Johnson, 17 January 2009 - 01:15 PM.


#11 mountaingoatgruff

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 07:01 PM

the reason i say that i'll only use mmo in my crankcases now is that it works so much better for me.

i had a 95 EJ22 sitting in my garage for months after sitting in another board member's garage for literally years. last weekend i put it in my new-to-me 97 OBS (had bad hg's). the thing ticked so loud you could hear it in the house! i put fresh oil in there during install, drained a bit and added seafom after hearing it but it had no affect. changed oil and used a qt of mmo, had it quiet 30 seconds after startup. running fresh 10-30 with no additives and its still quiet.

i also used mmo in a 93 honda accord 2.2? on tuesday (stubborn, lingering tap - tried seafom before with no affect). its quiet now, too - i doubt he's changed the oil/mmo blend yet though.

#12 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 07:27 PM

i also used mmo in a 93 honda accord 2.2? on tuesday (stubborn, lingering tap - tried seafom before with no affect). its quiet now, too - i doubt he's changed the oil/mmo blend yet though.


That's ok, it's a Honduh.

#13 MR_Loyale

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 09:47 PM

Well I changed to oil, put in a new filter and new oil along with 60% of the Sea Foam. I drove it 50 miles slow and fast (highway) and the ticking is still there. Any suggestions?

#14 ()__1337_CRAYOLA__()>

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 10:06 PM

it has a rod knock just give the car to me :D.... when i had a loyale all i had to do to make it stop is put half a bottle of seafoam in the tank and half in the oil and run it hard up to redline it never ticked again although i guess i was kinda hard on that wagon :P ive found if your sitting and it's ticking if u just floor the throtle past redline once it went away i guess they would pick up prime again from high revving

#15 MR_Loyale

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Posted 17 January 2009 - 10:41 PM

it has a rod knock just give the car to me :D.... when i had a loyale all i had to do to make it stop is put half a bottle of seafoam in the tank and half in the oil and run it hard up to redline it never ticked again although i guess i was kinda hard on that wagon :P ive found if your sitting and it's ticking if u just floor the throtle past redline once it went away i guess they would pick up prime again from high revving


My version of the EA82 doesn't have push rods. I did get it up to about 6500 RPM while accelerating on the freeway onramp. It still has the ticking though.

#16 blindrummer

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Posted 18 January 2009 - 02:20 AM

Well I changed to oil, put in a new filter and new oil along with 60% of the Sea Foam. I drove it 50 miles slow and fast (highway) and the ticking is still there. Any suggestions?


Marvel Mystery erl:)

#17 MR_Loyale

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 02:41 PM

I will try MMO this weekend.

#18 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 12:04 AM

Due to my Experience workin` on Some EA82`s (Not only mine) I can tell you that...

Johnson;787557']...I think overheating had something to do with my ticking issue. I know the prior owner overheated it.


...Yes!, You`re Right! ... Overheating can Cause the Tickin` Noise too... I`ve repaired a Friend`s Subie EA82 that Overheated Twice in a Year, both times Changed Head Gaskets and Cleaned the Lifters, but it seems like the Overheated Engine`s Oil, leaves some sort of Crystalized Barnish inside the Track of the Lifters, Damaging them... The Noise went off completely just untill my Friend changed all the Noisy Lifters with another ones.

I have been using both seafoam and MMO for many many many years with my cars... ...Another alternative is to swap a quart of oil with a quart of ATF..it also has extremely good results.


I`ll Love to Know more about the ATF in Engine`s Oil Results, are that a Good Choice to "Clean" an Engine in our Warm Caribbean Climates?

I`ll Really Love to obtain a Can of Seafoam, ... here in my Country seems like No one knows about it ... :-\ ... The Only Oil Additives with Good Quality that you can obtain here, are the Marvel Mistery Oil (MMO) the QMI with PTFE (Teflon) the Liqui-Moly`s "Motor Protect" and then the other Additives are Cheap and they seems to be just Viscosity Helpers, like the STP "No Smoke" etc... But no one of them are Cleaners, Just Oil Additives.

I`ve Tried QMI in Diesel Trucks (Toyota Dyna and Daihatsu Delta) and it really makes the Engine to Start Faster, Rev Easier and Runs Cooler... Same for Liqui-Moly ... but that effect just last around eight Months... but it Worth the Price?

But I Really have some Fear to pour Some Oil Additives in a EA Subaru Engine, Because a Friend who is Mechanic, told me long time Ago, that the Engine`s Oil becomes too Thin for our Climates and the Fuel Pump may end Damaged.

He explained the Possible Damage as "Scratches and Wear in Pump`s inner Metal, which measures are critical" What do you Think About? ... is That True?

My version of the EA82 doesn't have push rods. ...


I`ll Like to know more Details about...

#19 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 01:07 PM

I don`t want to hijack the thread, but...

I forgot to Ask what do you think about the Gunk`s Valve Medic?



#20 MR_Loyale

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 06:43 PM

Ok. After 130 miles driving with 60% can seafoam in oil and 40% in gas tank I noticed zero change in the ticking. However the engine has more pep and doesn't bog down going up hills if I am in the wrong gear.

This morning I drained the oil and tried Marvel Mystery Oil with the new oil and filter. I drove 40 miles and the ticking is still there but noticable less metalic pinging if that makes sense at all. This pitch changed from a high pitch to a lower pitch.

I finally decided to employ the anti-ticking device that comes with every Subaru.

I turned up the radio.:lol:

#21 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 24 January 2009 - 10:33 PM

You Turned Up the Radio! :lol: "Anti-Tickin` Device" !!!

Posted Image

That`s Soo Funny!

Well... Beside the Fun about the "Anti-Tickin` Device" I Believe that if the Tickin` Noise is Gettin` Softer, you`re Making something Good about it, I Believe that maybe it will Start to going Softer with Time, if Engine Maintains the Good High Oil Pressure.



#22 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 01:00 AM

I`ll Love to Read about the experience of using Gunk`s Valve Medic on EA82`s ...

Will that really Clean the Valve`s Lifters?

#23 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 03:05 AM

So... Nobody Tried the Valve Medic Additive? ... :confused: ...

I am Asking, `cos a Friend of mine gave me one to me as a Gift...
and I am Afraid to Pour it in any of my Cars...

#24 MR_Loyale

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Posted 22 February 2009 - 03:41 PM

So... Nobody Tried the Valve Medic Additive? ... :confused: ...

I am Asking, `cos a Friend of mine gave me one to me as a Gift...
and I am Afraid to Pour it in any of my Cars...


Well if you got really bad ticking, give it a try. I doubt it will ruin anything. It will either help or it won't and if you are afraid of it, then you can drain the oil and refill it with fresh stuff.

If you don't have ticking, why take the chance?

#25 Txakura

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Posted 23 February 2009 - 12:44 AM

Sorry guys, I don't believe in any additives. I use MMO for my air tools, that's about it. I'm in the same camp as RX tuner, if mine wants to tick it will - no matter what. I just endured two weeks of noise and just as it started up out of the blue, it went away on it's own too.

ATF makes more sense to me than anything else, it is designed to take horribly high temperatures and pressures and has strong detergents... I have added 1/2 quart to several engines over the years, run it for a long trip and changed the oil when I got home.

If any product has actually worked as advertised it'd be Castrol high mileage engine oil. I have had good results eliminating seal weepage in several vehicles, it won't fix a fully blown seal, but it sure makes weepy leaks slow down if not go away completely. That is the case with my ATV (shift shaft seal), F-250, Honda motorcycle (rear valve cover), Jeep (valve cover and head gasket oil leak) and Suubie (seems like every gasket :eek:).

Since I switched to that I have never heard the one lifter in my truck that acts up, and the number of times the Suubie gets cranky has been cut in half - at least!




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