derburger Posted January 29, 2009 Author Share Posted January 29, 2009 IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP, rust killed it. So apparently a fuel pump can sound fine and create suction but not do anything! After I got all the hoses and wires hooked up to run the car off a gas can I find this pump is trashed. Maybe a dribble or fumes got past the filter since the engine would sputter but not stay running again. At least I for sure know what's wrong now. Well, I have to get the car home this weekend. There is a junkyard or two in town that might have any old 12v EFI fuel pump I could wire in to get home. Most fuel pumps are in the tank though, right? Or, I could get AAA premier and see if they'll tow me 175 miles, max of 200 miles. I doubt they would even show up for that call. This car is kicking my butt :x The fuel pump was on switched ignition so the key was the switch to shut it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I knew there would be a use for the info I typed http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=786797&highlight=fuel+pump#post786797 fuel pump pressures and flow carb 2.6 - 3.3 psi 38L / 10 gmp mpfi 61 - 71 psi max relief valve setting, 95L / 25.1 gpm @ 43.4 psi the pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 36.3 psi compared to the intake manifold pressure pressure engine at idle 26 - 30 psi pressure with pump on and engine off 37 psi pressure with pump off and engine off 33 psi '85 fsm spfi is approx. 20 psi to get you home, find a pump with atleast 30 psi and 1/2" fittings if possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derburger Posted February 2, 2009 Author Share Posted February 2, 2009 Picked up an SPFI loyale fuel pump and one from a fuel injected brick volvo at pick and pull. I have the volvo pump wired in, the car runs off a gas can and runs great finally. To drive home 175 miles I'll wire the volvo pump into the stock fuel system since a gas can in front of the radiator isn't the safest. Then I'll replace the gas tank with a new one from Rockauto, and put in the Loyale fuel pump. I'll also do a coolant flush, new Subaru thermostat, and I should be good to go for a while. I think I'll want an aftermarket coolant gauge, though, I don't trust the factory digidash one. Thanks everyone for your help, the car tricked me into thinking it was getting fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 don't bother with the SPFI pump, it is not built for the pressure MPFI TURBO requires fuel pump pressures and flow SPFI 38 - 50 psi max relief valve setting, 80 L / 21.1 gpm @ 21 psi the pressure regulator adjusts the fuel pressure to 21 psi compared to the intake manifold pressure standard 20 - 24 psi p. 17 section 2-7 p. 3 section 2-8 '90 loyale fsm pub. G148BE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruru Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 (edited) code 12 same as me your timing is likely way off with cap removed crank engine and make sure rotor turns nice, no skipping 22mm on the front crank bolt remove dist., reset to initial base timing, marks aligned, and connect green check connector there are 7 common grounds A front left hood bumper B above front right tow hook C front right strut tower D front left strut tower E center under dash? relay bracket holds 4 relays F under front right seat G under trunk latch also clean your engine ground and left rear defroster ground the ECM does NOT care about having it's CASE GROUNDED incase you can't tell, I don't like it when people claim that they clean all grounds when they forget some my car "fixed" itself after I cleaned ALL grounds I quit driving my '85 vw jetta diesel when it quit starting below 50*f Dear subiemech85, I have a NEW question RE grounding (anyone may jump in here, as long as s/he is knowledgeable about the issue at hand!), I had someone help me replace a rusted-out heating/cooling system pipe, and he doesn't remember where goes the ground wire extending from the frame around the engine bay, just in front of the battery (1986 GL loyale, EA82, 2bbl carb model engine). It looks like it might connect to the alternator, but I'm not one for Russian Roulette when it comes to electrical stuff! You can see, in the image linked to below, what looks like the same ground wire setup that extends (in the linked image) from the blue frame just to the left of the outlined square that highlights the battery, where the wire in question seems to duck down into the engine bay in front of the battery [which is exactly what it would do on my subie if I connected it to the scew/nut assembly that allows the alternator (I think it's the alternator - it's the smaller belt-driven gizmo just underneath the larger, belt-driven gizmo on top) to slide outward and upward in order to take up the slack in the belt]. Thanks much to any and all who can clear this up, thus helping me to avoid what might otherwise be a costly round of Russian Roulette! Here's the image in question (the gound wire in question is located in the bottom left-hand corner of the pic... OOPS! You'll have to scroll down a bit to see the image, the link to the separate JPG image itself failed! Nope, it failed too - I uploaded the image myself!!!). Thanks again! subaruru Edited August 31, 2014 by subaruru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subaruru Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Dear subiemech85, I have a NEW question RE grounding (anyone may jump in here, as long as s/he is knowledgeable about the issue at hand!), I had someone help me replace a rusted-out heating/cooling system pipe, and he doesn't remember where goes the ground wire extending from the frame around the engine bay, just in front of the battery (1986 GL loyale, EA82, 2bbl carb model engine). It looks like it might connect to the alternator, but I'm not one for Russian Roulette when it comes to electrical stuff! You can see, in the image linked to below, what looks like the same ground wire setup that extends (in the linked image) from the blue frame just to the left of the outlined square that highlights the battery, where the wire in question seems to duck down into the engine bay in front of the battery [which is exactly what it would do on my subie if I connected it to the scew/nut assembly that allows the alternator (I think it's the alternator - it's the smaller belt-driven gizmo just underneath the larger, belt-driven gizmo on top) to slide outward and upward in order to take up the slack in the belt]. Thanks much to any and all who can clear this up, thus helping me to avoid what might otherwise be a costly round of Russian Roulette! Here's the image in question (the gound wire in question is located in the bottom left-hand corner of the pic... OOPS! You'll have to scroll down a bit to see the image, the link to the separate JPG image itself failed! Nope, it failed too - I uploaded the image myself!!!). Thanks again! subaruru Hey, folks, I think that this might be the ground wire that connects to the radiator, but where? It looks like it might fit exactly on the nearest radiator fan shroud bolt. Anybody have a picture of how/ where this connects? OR, if you have a similar vehicle, can you check yours and see where the "business end" of that ground wire connects? Thx! Subaruru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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