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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Power Window Repair


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1 reply to this topic

#1 Txakura

Txakura

    Not the Stig

  • Gold Subscribers
  • 981 posts
  • Albion, WA

Posted 31 January 2009 - 09:56 PM

Time for war... get the window down if you can, and tap the door snubber pin loose. If you can't move the window, I have used a
1 amp motorcycle trickle charger to carefully power the window motor directly
Posted Imagethe window master panel wiring connects behind the driver kick panel, the column wiring is exposed for
some other work - don't pay attention to it

Posted Imageloosen the fender, the two famous bolts behind the
bumper can stay in place

Posted Imagedon't panic, my fender was wrinkled last November sliding into a ditch - not doing this

Posted Imagenow you can actually get to the door hinge bolts

Posted Image I'm not too worried about my paint, it was ok to just
set it down gently

Posted Image awesome overview of mess

Posted Image pull the grommet off the door frame and feed the wire
bundle through

Posted Imageset it down to work on it

Posted Image
I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires
broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years

I wasn't expecting the main ground to be broken, the driver window
still worked (after I had replaced the main power wire on top of the
existing bundle)- by grounding out through some other part
of the bundle, but the passenger side didn't work at all. When I
added the new power wire on top of the existing bundle, apparently the
main ground finally gave up and broke,
disconnecting the passenger side - just like flicking the window lock

your passenger circuit has to be complete at this panel otherwise it won't work from either door

Posted Image
repaired bundle with fresh wire and splices

Posted Image
you don't need to cut this grommet, I had already cut
it to run the previous repair , I added a little atv so that it would seal
after I taped it all back up and put it in

Posted Image
re-taped a little too far, had to take some off later - no big

Posted Image
re-connected to make sure it worked before I buttoned it up

Posted Image
same as above

Posted Image
I hung it off the striker and used the outline from the
hinge sealant to get it back in place, it was off about 2-3 mm at the
striker with the bolts snug. I just jockeyed it around until it lined up
and closed correctly - then tightened the bolts fully

In hindsight, it was much easier to pull the fender loose and drop the door than it was to try and fix the wiring in place -
and it didn't take very long either; definitely one of those easier to bite the bullet than try to get around it affairs

hope this helps some other soul save time and frustration

#2 AKghandi

AKghandi

    87 GL-10 2" lift 27" tires, 86 GL 2" lift 29"

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  • Anchorage, Alaska

Posted 01 January 2012 - 02:34 AM

under the carpet in the passenger side foot well there is a bundle of 5 red wires that on my car were corroded to the point that none of the windows worked. i found this out after i pulled the door off took the entire wiring harness out of the door unwrapped and checked every wire. also the location of the relay and control unit is under the pass front seat close to the door jam. so if only one of the windows doesnt work then all of the sudden none of them work i'd check that first.




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