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help with intitial start up plz


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sp I've got this 1990 loyale with an ea82 that I've rebuilt. I may try to start it up this weekend but i thought I'd check in here first.

 

I've never so much as adjusted timing on a car, heh heh, but I've been doing some internet research and here's my plan of attack...

 

1. Fill the radiator as much as I can and leave the rad cap off; also loosen the screws on the distributor.

 

2. With the coil wire disconnected, turn the engine over for about 10 seconds to get the oil primed.

 

3. Set the fire extinguisher by the car , then start the car (of course, :rolleyes: ) and if it runs....

 

4. Turn the dizzy until the timing is close enough and it idles decent. Then tighten the screws.

 

5. Give it some gas and try to keep it around 1500-2000rpm so the rings seal properly. (I've been reading that you shouldn't let the car idle at all the first few hundred miles.)

 

6. Once the thermostat opens, I'll have to add coolant until the radiator is full and put the cap back on.

 

7. Use a timing light to get the timing right on.

 

8. Take the car for nice long easy drive.

 

...I'm sure I'm missing something good here. Anyone got something to add?

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you won't be able to time it without letting it idle

 

 

I have never heard of not letting a fresh engine idle for the few hundred miles....First few minutes maybe, but not the first few hundred miles.. that would make driving it kinda suck too..

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There are many different schools of thought about breaking in a new engine. Mine: Drive it respectfully for the first few hundred miles. Don't baby it but don't hammer on it either. After I start it for the first time I usually let it idle until it is at operating temp, then I time it.

 

Like calebz said, you have to let it idle to set the timing. Letting a new engine idle is fine.

 

I am in Longmont. I might be able to lend a hand, if you need it.

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Personally, I leave the spark plugs out when spinning the engine to prime the oil. This way, there is even less load on the bearings until the pressure comes up. Just my preference though.

Some may argue the potential for sucking in dirt but, presumeably the engine is clean and unless there is visible dirt floating around in the air...well...:rolleyes: whateva.

JMHO

Cheers,

-Louis-

'91 Loyale 4wd 5spd Wagon

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Many people have wiped out the lobes on a new cam letting it idle..........

I don't think this applies to the Subaru engine (maybe the pushrod ones? I don't know), as the cam and lifters are not in direct contact and the lobes are ground straight across; intead of having a slight "ramp" like pushrod engines do, so that the lifter will rotate slightly every time it is moved. This is to reduce wear across the "face" of the lifter (lifters are ground to a convex on the bottom) and prevent the cam from losing it's "nose".

On American V8's, this is the only place in the engine where cast iron and chilled iron are in direct contact. Lifters are chilled iron. Cams are usually cast iron and fairly soft.

 

On these type of engines; make sure it starts the first time and run at a fast idle for 20-30 mins., shut down, let it cool, change oil and filter, restart. Then you can let it idle all you want......:D

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Many people have wiped out the lobes on a new cam letting it idle.........I don't think this applies to the Subaru engine (maybe the pushrod ones? I don't know)

 

I've got this 1990 loyale with an ea82 that I've rebuilt.

 

 

I believe that we are speaking specifically about a Subaru EA82 overhead cam engine.

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I understand what is being worked on here........but many of the same principles apply to ALL 4 cycle ICE's.............I have built several different types of engines over the years; just thought I would throw in my .02.....

 

Not trying to steer the thread off course................back to Sube's!

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