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Same 95 Impreza 2.2 I been working on for my son. Last owner did nothing but drive it. So far put new rear seal in trans, changed oil, new antifreeze and thermostat. Fixed power steering pump leak and put new belts on. Still have to replace front left cv joint that has no boots. Want to get cooling fan to work. Checked both fuses, not blown. How do I test fan with out frying it ? And if fan is good what else can it be. Checked plug leads from fan and they are clean. Need some help. thanks

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Don't know where to tell you to look, but I think there is a sensor somewhere in/on the cooling system that turns on the cooling fans.

 

I think you can check to see if the fans are good by disconnecting the wiring connector, then "hot wiring" directly to 12V. I don't think it makes any difference which of the two wires is connected to positive to see if the fan s work. Connected one way, the fan blades turn clock wise, connected the other way the blades turn counter clock wise.

 

If this car has an automatic trans, suggest you drain and replace the ATF. There is a drain plug that is exactly like the oil pan drain plug for draining the ATF on the bottom of the trany. Subaru makes it easy to change the ATF. Unfortunately, only about half of the ATF can be drained at one time, the remaining ATF will not drain from the torque converter. So the ATF need to be changed at least three times, and driven between changes, to finally get a good overall fluid change.

 

Sounds like you are doing all the good maintenance on the car that it desperately needs. Hope your son is helping you with the work as well. It is a good opportunity for him to learn about car maintenance.

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There is an other selftest for the cooling fans (if ODBI), at least in a Legacy I. However i suppose it is not much different in the old impreza. If i connect the CEL readout- connector (black one under steering column) and the green T-shaped connector next to it (its for long test run) the cooling fan will turn it self on and off at interfals of a few seconds. You can also do the self test and see for more errors in sensors. Only if OBDI though good luck.

 

Its the so called D-check mode

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Thanks guys for the great info. Son seems be be helping if I can keep him out there long enough to watch and learn. First thing he has to learn is you dont have to run into the house and wash your hands every time you get some grease on them. Seems to be more worried about cleaning out the inside car then about if its gonna run right. Way out in the sticks here so have no where to work on car but outside. Will check out fan again. Had same problem on another Impreza but its been so long ago I forgot what I did to fix it. Thanks again

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The main fan relay is on the left side under the dash. The A/C relay is in the relay panel.

 

You haven't really stated that you are sure that the fan operation is actually a problem. Are you sure the fan isn't working due to a problem, because normally it doesn't turn on unless the coolant starts to overheat.

 

I recommend you first connect the diagnostic connections together under the dash to test the fan circuit.

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The relay is fine, you tested it with those green connectors together. Are you concerned that the second fan is not coming on? You could also test out the whole ckt by pulling the plug on the temp sensor, that would starts the fans as well. That would leave you then with a temp sensor.

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It doesn't matter how long the car runs. Unless the temperature gauge gets into the hot zone the fan should not turn on. By doing the test you proved that the fan circuit is good, though it did not prove the temperature sensor is ok. That is bypassed with the test.

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It doesn't matter how long the car runs. Unless the temperature gauge gets into the hot zone the fan should not turn on. By doing the test you proved that the fan circuit is good, though it did not prove the temperature sensor is ok. That is bypassed with the test.

 

plus, if the car never runs hot, what difference does it make if the fan works. as long as it runs cool it's ok. take it on the hiway for 15 minutes and then pull over and idle. if it runs cool it's ok. re check in 3 and 6 months.

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It was the Coolant Temperture Sensor !! Not an easy thing to find or get at. Its buried under a bunch of other wires. If anyone else has problem finding it, my best way to explain is follow the hose from your PCV down to where it clamps to intake manifold and you will see a brown plug under a bunch of wires that goes to the CTS on your right. A 17mm deep well socket gets it out. Getting the connector off was my biggest problem. A job for someone with small hands to get in there. But now the cooling fan works. Thanks guys for all your help. This site has saved me hundreds of dollars ( that I dont have ) in repairs if I had to take it in to a shop and have the work done on my cars. My son is happy and so am I, and im happy my sons first car is a Subaru. thanks for all the help:banana:

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  • 10 years later...

Can I unearth this thread?

I’ve been having problems with my fans not working while I’m running AC, I have a 95 Legacy wagon 2.2

Also it’s been blowing out fuses for the Main Fan under dash in small fuse box.

I connected the two green plugs together and replaced the fuse, and yes both fans turned on!

my mechanic had said I needed a new fan.

but my question is about the cooling sensor, which I assume is the culprit.

WV above stated that he replaced his which had a brown plug on it. But when I look the sensor up, they have both a plug one and a tab one for connectors.

and I see both on mine in that area. I have a pic below of what I think is my coolant one, but there is also what looks to be a faded brown one farther toward the engine interior.

is This it?

16FFB31D-BC7D-45E7-A713-915E9C6F0805.jpeg

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What I don’t understand about this issue (the 2009 one) is that the fans were NOT running and a new coolant temp sensor “fixed” it. 

If there’s an issue with the coolant temp sensor, or the circuit, the ECU runs the fans full time and the check engine light will illuminate. 

@1997reduxe - the best way to see the coolant temp sensor is from behind the intake manifold on the RHS of the engine. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Thank you both.

after I posted the post I started fooling around with the diagnostic plugs. 

Thats something I never did, I guess I never had a reason. But I connected the green plugs and yes, the AC fan ran “strong” (for a 220k fan) and the sub fan ran, but very slowly. Then when I did it again later, the green plugs, it didn’t run at all. 

I found the AC fan a Dorman, and a four seasons sub fan both for 50 each. So I’m replacing both I’ll see what it does. 

The two sensors are probably a good option. 

But all those diagnostic plugs, that’s a whole new world to look into. Boy they put a lot into these cars.

 

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But all those diagnostic plugs, that’s a whole new world to look into. Boy they put a lot into these cars.

There are lots of people when working on their cars see those two plugs not connected and assume that they should be then get very concerned when fans start running, clicking noises in the passenger compartment and the Check Engine light comes on :lol:

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  • 2 months later...

I guess this is your 97 and it has AC. Here is the quickest way to check fuses and relays for the radiator fans if the fans are good.

Under the steering side of the dash you will find two light green connectors. They are two terminal connectors, but there is only one wire in each. Plug those together and turn the ignition switch to ON. Do not start the engine.

The fuel pump will cycle on and off, then the AC clutch will pull in and release, then both radiator fans should turn on low speed then go to high speed then turn off. This cycle will repeat until you turn the key off. 

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