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99 outback overheating


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9 replies to this topic

#1 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 02:41 AM

searched archives and could not find similar thread.

99 outback ( 175K miles ) overheating. replaced thermostat , bled air and completely refilled system .

heater in car works fine and it will idle at proper temp but if i drive without heater on, it starts to overheat.

flushed the system twice, bled air cause mechanic at work said i may have an air pocket and tried again with the same result.

does not overheat with heater fan on full. the overflo bottle emptied once and I refilled it and now the level is OK

The top hose is hot. heater hoses are hot but the bottom hose is cold and the cap is cold. suggests lack of circulation?

both radiator fans come on but shut after after I blow the heater fan for a couple minutes.

I'm gonna try changing the radiator cap. the radiator appears cold while every thing else is hot.

Oh, Ya I took out the new thermostat and made sure it opened in a pan of hot water and then put it back in. the old one tested ok too.

when I was coming home from work ( 40 miles) it was 6 below zero when it started overheating but all day i was working on it , it was around 30 degrees.

this is everything I did and could think of reporting. any help and or suggestions? if the radiator is blocked , how do I remedy that?

thanks

#2 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:23 AM

I forgot to mention that the oil level is fine, exhaust normal and there are no bubbles in the overflow bottle fluid.

roadsubiedog

#3 grossgary

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:33 AM

search for burp, burping, bleed, bleeding coolant. you need to properly do that first. these engines are hard to get all the air out of. there's a bleeder screw on the radiator.

replace the radiator cap while you're at it.

head gaskets are going to get much more likely if those things dont' solve your problem.

#4 mdjdc

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 06:32 AM

I'll bet you a box of doughnuts that it's the headgasket.

#5 davebugs

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 08:01 AM

If it hasn't had the HG's done with those miles you're on borrowed time.

If HGs aren't the problem already you're certainly nudging them to be the problem. Most Suby's I do have 110 to 185k on them when the HG's go.

Excellent burping instructions here.

I have the best luck with the front of the car slightly raised especially on the side with the rad cap - think floorjack.

ALWAYS fill through the top rad hose before topping off rad.

I'd be getting 'emotionally prepared' for the HG job.

#6 Rooster2

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 09:36 AM

Sorry to say, but if you have to work that hard at bleeding and burping the cooling system, then the cooling system is prolly not the problem.

You don't want to hear it, but I am afraid you have a bad head gasket.

#7 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:12 PM

search for burp, burping, bleed, bleeding coolant. you need to properly do that first. these engines are hard to get all the air out of. there's a bleeder screw on the radiator.

replace the radiator cap while you're at it.

head gaskets are going to get much more likely if those things dont' solve your problem.



Thanks, I know where the bleeder screw is. what exactly is the proper procedure? do you wait until the engine is at operating temp or shut it off and then bleed air off?

#8 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:16 PM

Sorry to say, but if you have to work that hard at bleeding and burping the cooling system, then the cooling system is prolly not the problem.

You don't want to hear it, but I am afraid you have a bad head gasket.



I googled "99 subaru overheating" and read several stories that this is a problem with early 99 and that Subaru knows and recommends a Subaru approved engine sealant before they will do a HG job.

anyone know of this? and know the enging sealant they are talking about?

#9 grossgary

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:28 PM

search here for burping methods (i already mentioned that above). everything you asked is already covered, very common stuff. definitely do not do it with a warm engine.

ha ha - do we know!! spend some time here and you'll find there's more information here about fixing Subaru's than anywhere else in the world, including any dealership.

yes, we know all about the sealant conditioner offered by Subaru.

it's not for your car. it's for the Phase II EJ25 - that came in the OBW in 2000. In 1999 some of the other Subaru's had that engine though - like the forester and RS, those would get the sealant, but it's a different engine than you 99 OBW.

the Phase II EJ25 in 2000 was also eligible for an extended head gasket replacement warranty/campaign. Your engine isn't eligible for that either.

The two engines (yours and the later) are very similar but the head gasket problems are different.

Yours won't benefit from any additives/sealants.

#10 roadsubiedog

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Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:51 PM

search here for burping methods (i already mentioned that above). everything you asked is already covered, very common stuff. definitely do not do it with a warm engine.

ha ha - do we know!! spend some time here and you'll find there's more information here about fixing Subaru's than anywhere else in the world, including any dealership.

yes, we know all about the sealant conditioner offered by Subaru.

it's not for your car. it's for the Phase II EJ25 - that came in the OBW in 2000. In 1999 some of the other Subaru's had that engine though - like the forester and RS, those would get the sealant, but it's a different engine than you 99 OBW.

the Phase II EJ25 in 2000 was also eligible for an extended head gasket replacement warranty/campaign. Your engine isn't eligible for that either.

The two engines (yours and the later) are very similar but the head gasket problems are different.

Yours won't benefit from any additives/sealants.


Thanks for your help. very much appreciated. gonna try the new cap and bleeding again. I mentioned that the radiator is cold. the water is not circulating thru it but it seems ok in the motor and heater core. i have heat in the car and can idle over 30 minutes with the heater going without a rise in temp.

BTW this site is great. been a member since 2005 but have not visited since revamping. I still have 2 84 wagons which seem more dependable. One has 306,000 miles on with all original equipment except a new cat. It's pretty ugly but I'll need it once again for my 85 round trip commute to work until I sort this problem out.




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