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EA82 Timing belt first timer..... few ?'s
Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:10 PM
Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:29 PM
You can start the car just for a second or two literally,
without the radiator on to check timing. If it starts up and
sounds ok shut it down QUICK:) Thats how I did it. As far
as rotating goes, loosen the tensions so the belts slips on
and you dont have to rotate it on.
Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:38 PM
Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:50 PM
I think we used some sort of bar to put tension
on the crank pulley to stop it from rotating. Oil is most likely from
retention ring. Sorry dont know the name in english.
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:03 PM
Running the engine won't tell you much. One cam can be one tooth out, and it will still sound like it is running quite well. It is not until you notice it is running hot, slow(er than normal) and sucking gas that you realize it isn't right. So, back to paragraph 1: turn the engine over and check, check, check.
There is no magic technique for keeping everything lined up, except practice. After you have done it a bit, it will get easier. Keeping it in gear with the handbrake on helps keep the crank in one place.
Once you are reasonably experienced, and the belt covers are removed, it is possible to change belts without removing the radiator.
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:15 PM
Try this link:
I have that printed out and sitting next to my Chiltons. It's actually a lot more helpful than the chilton's.
Robm: Looks like I'll just have to keep doing this until everything looks perfect. Is it possible to just leave both of the belt covers completely off when I put everything back together?
Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:28 PM
just that small pebbles or oil cane ruin your day
Posted 19 February 2009 - 07:10 PM
most likely yours free wheel and whir like crazy when you spin them? that's not good. go check out a brand new pulley (any kind) at an auto parts store to see what a new one should feel like, they are very tight and don't spin at all by hand because they actually have grease in them!
once the belts are installed, just rotate the engine a time or two and make sure the marks are still on. if they're still lined up, buckle up all the bolts and install everything. you're golden. or you can even start the car, briefly of course since the water pump isn't hooked up.
and there's no need for belt covers, a bunch of us on here don't reinstall the belt covers. makes the job take 15 minutes next time and it's easy to check things out. i've seen timing covers CAUSE timing belt damage, so anecdotal thoughts don't matter.
you can read all the "hot debates" about that. the general idea is the armchair folks that have never done it say not too...while the rest of us are motoring around with easier to work on vehicles!
Posted 20 February 2009 - 06:51 PM
Anyone know how to print that without the text getting chopped off on the right side of the page? (Landscaped was not wide enough - I guess I could use Legal paper...)
if you are having problems printing it as is, you can copy and paste to your word processing program (such as MS Word) and print that way...
Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:07 AM
I installed all belts, idlers, pumps etc, the drivers side was always a tooth or more off no matter how careful I was.
So I installed everything, tensioned the belts, made sure the timing marks and the passenger side belt were good, I then loosened the drivers side belt and rotated the sprocket to the proper position with a wrench. I tensioned the belt. check the marks one more time, and proceeded to put the rest off the car together. It started the first time and has run like champ ever since.
Mine leaked oil to, because I had the front end up in the air for so long, some came out of the rear main seal.
It is a very good idea to replace all of the pumps, idlers etc. at this time. call it cheap insurance.
Posted 21 February 2009 - 01:08 PM
I typically put the belt on the crank, around the cam, then get it over the tensioner.
Posted 25 February 2009 - 04:47 PM
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