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EA82 Timing belt first timer..... few ?'s


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Mikexj

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:10 PM

Hi all, I have been slowly getting around to putting new timing belts on my '87 GL wagon but I have run into a few snags. First, does anybody have any hints or tips on getting everything to line up and stay lined up as I go through the process of rotating everything and putting on the belts? Every time I get the last belt on, the marks on the fly wheel are at least an inch off and the cam pulley's aren't where they should be. Second, is there any way to verify that I have the timing is correct before I put all the belts, pulleys, fan and radiator back on? That wasn't fun and I'd like to avoid doing it again, for a while anyways. Also, as I was trying to rotate the crankshaft a full 360 degrees the first time I didn't realise the car was still in gear, I was pushing pretty hard before I decided it wasn't right and that I'm dumb. Later I noticed what might have been transmission fluid underneath the car, and idea's what I could have screwed up? Sorry for all the questions but I'm still in the early learning stages of working on my car/motorcycle. I'm just lucky to have found what is easily one of the best car forums I've ever been a part of.

#2 Caramanos2000

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:29 PM

Tranny fluid might have come from the radiator if its an auto.
You can start the car just for a second or two literally,
without the radiator on to check timing. If it starts up and
sounds ok shut it down QUICK:) Thats how I did it. As far
as rotating goes, loosen the tensions so the belts slips on
and you dont have to rotate it on.

#3 Mikexj

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:38 PM

It is a manual so I don't think it's coming from the radiator, the leak looked to be under the drivers side CV boot/ transmission. I'll get it up on jack stands and take a better look at it tonight hopefully. I had the tensioners all the way loose to install the belt. The rotating I'm talking about is from where the directions tell you to rotate the crankshaft pulley a full 360 degrees, this is after the driver's side belt is on. Thanks.

#4 Caramanos2000

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:50 PM

Oh ok I got ya, I dont quite remember but
I think we used some sort of bar to put tension
on the crank pulley to stop it from rotating. Oil is most likely from
retention ring. Sorry dont know the name in english.

#5 somick

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 12:59 PM

Try this link:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=50768

#6 robm

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:03 PM

The best way to check is to just roll the engine through a few revolutions, and make sure that all the marks line up for both belts, both cams, every time.

Running the engine won't tell you much. One cam can be one tooth out, and it will still sound like it is running quite well. It is not until you notice it is running hot, slow(er than normal) and sucking gas that you realize it isn't right. So, back to paragraph 1: turn the engine over and check, check, check.

There is no magic technique for keeping everything lined up, except practice. After you have done it a bit, it will get easier. Keeping it in gear with the handbrake on helps keep the crank in one place.

Once you are reasonably experienced, and the belt covers are removed, it is possible to change belts without removing the radiator.

Good luck.

Rob.

#7 Mikexj

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:15 PM

Try this link:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=50768


I have that printed out and sitting next to my Chiltons. It's actually a lot more helpful than the chilton's.


Robm: Looks like I'll just have to keep doing this until everything looks perfect. Is it possible to just leave both of the belt covers completely off when I put everything back together?

#8 Caramanos2000

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 01:28 PM

Ive actually read that you can leave them off, its
just that small pebbles or oil cane ruin your day :)

#9 grossgary

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Posted 19 February 2009 - 07:10 PM

while you're in there, you might want to consider the $60 ebay kits to replace all the pulleys and tensioners. it's really easy and yours are likely old...original? if that's the case there's a really good chance of those pulleys seizing or failing completely. either way it'll break or throw your new timing belt.

most likely yours free wheel and whir like crazy when you spin them? that's not good. go check out a brand new pulley (any kind) at an auto parts store to see what a new one should feel like, they are very tight and don't spin at all by hand because they actually have grease in them!

once the belts are installed, just rotate the engine a time or two and make sure the marks are still on. if they're still lined up, buckle up all the bolts and install everything. you're golden. or you can even start the car, briefly of course since the water pump isn't hooked up.

and there's no need for belt covers, a bunch of us on here don't reinstall the belt covers. makes the job take 15 minutes next time and it's easy to check things out. i've seen timing covers CAUSE timing belt damage, so anecdotal thoughts don't matter.

you can read all the "hot debates" about that. the general idea is the armchair folks that have never done it say not too...while the rest of us are motoring around with easier to work on vehicles!

#10 thecarman

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 11:56 AM

Try this link:

http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=50768


Anyone know how to print that without the text getting chopped off on the right side of the page? (Landscaped was not wide enough - I guess I could use Legal paper...)

#11 heartless

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Posted 20 February 2009 - 06:51 PM

Anyone know how to print that without the text getting chopped off on the right side of the page? (Landscaped was not wide enough - I guess I could use Legal paper...)


if you are having problems printing it as is, you can copy and paste to your word processing program (such as MS Word) and print that way...

#12 Truckerman666

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 10:07 AM

My first going this was recently to, and I had the same problem. Here is how I solved it.

I installed all belts, idlers, pumps etc, the drivers side was always a tooth or more off no matter how careful I was.

So I installed everything, tensioned the belts, made sure the timing marks and the passenger side belt were good, I then loosened the drivers side belt and rotated the sprocket to the proper position with a wrench. I tensioned the belt. check the marks one more time, and proceeded to put the rest off the car together. It started the first time and has run like champ ever since.

Mine leaked oil to, because I had the front end up in the air for so long, some came out of the rear main seal.

It is a very good idea to replace all of the pumps, idlers etc. at this time. call it cheap insurance.

#13 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 21 February 2009 - 01:08 PM

The biggest thing that helps me is to push against the springs on the tensioners, then tighten the bolt down to hold it there. Then when you put the belts on you don't have to fight the spring tension while making sure everything else lines up.

I typically put the belt on the crank, around the cam, then get it over the tensioner.

-Dave

#14 Mikexj

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Posted 25 February 2009 - 04:47 PM

Well I finally got it. Started up on the first try, which was shocking. Thanks everybody for all the help and advice. For other first timers thinking about doing this I would say go for it. It's not as hard as it looks and sounds, it just takes time and patience. Even getting the timing right isn't bad after a little trial and error.




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