naru Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I do not have a white wire in the fusible link area located in the engine area. I replaced the ignition relay and the coil. I am going to go and get a used ECU today so I can rule out the ECU. I hope this will work. Thanks. No power at the coil? That makes it easier. If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be a fusible link,ignition switch or wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I got it ..give up and sell it to me..lol just kidding..ok kind of. it sounds like a ground problem, there are so many things that depend on ground wires, also could be a corrosion issue, intermittent problems with ecu and other sensors usually are. that being said it could take hours to find . like checking wire coupling plugs, engine grounding straps. and things. can you post pics of this car . so everyone can drool over a low mileage loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I was just reading back in the thred 1. the clock.. its easy to fix with a soldering iron. open it up and wiggle the wires, you should be able to see a broken solder joint 2. if you strip a rotor screw you can take a screw from the little metal plate (dust shield) just below the rotor. there exactally the same size and pitch, tha plate wont go anywere with one less screw. if you need pics let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 I was just reading back in the thred 1. the clock.. its easy to fix with a soldering iron. open it up and wiggle the wires, you should be able to see a broken solder joint 2. if you strip a rotor screw you can take a screw from the little metal plate (dust shield) just below the rotor. there exactally the same size and pitch, tha plate wont go anywere with one less screw. if you need pics let me know I will keep checking grounds and anything else I can find. Just tried the used ECU and that did not work. Back to the drawing board. I will try to post pics soon. Any more ideas on what to check? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 This is getting slightly silly.Bad grounds,coil,ignition reley and ECU won`t prevent the coil from powering up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 I do not have a white wire in the fusible link area located in the engine area.Thanks. The actual link is black,it feeds a white wire in the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 This is getting slightly silly.Bad grounds,coil,ignition reley and ECU won`t prevent the coil from powering up. What could it be? I really need this car in service! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 What could it be? I really need this car in service! No power at the coil? That makes it easier. If fuses 11&12 are both good,it has to be a fusible link,ignition switch or wiring. My money is on the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Share Posted March 20, 2009 The actual link is black,it feeds a white wire in the harness. I'll double check that link. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 I checked the link and it is fine. Can anyone tell me if anybody in my area can help with this? I'm in Muncie. IN. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 I checked the link and it is fine. Can anyone tell me if anybody in my area can help with this? I'm in Muncie. IN. How did you check it? Got power on the white wire to the ign. switch? At fuses 11,12? Remove the steering column plastic to access the ign. switch plug. This is not as difficult to fix as you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 You need to make sure that the suggested electrical areas are getting voltage to them using at least a test light probe to verify the voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 You need to make sure that the suggested electrical areas are getting voltage to them using at least a test light probe to verify the voltage. I checked them with a volt meter. I have 13.48 volts at the fusible link and 13.44 at fusees 11 and 12. I replaced the ignition relay and I have power going to it. I will check, recheck power at the ignition switch. I guess I'll try and find some more grounds to check. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 I checked them with a volt meter. I have 13.48 volts at the fusible link and 13.44 at fusees 11 and 12. I replaced the ignition relay and I have power going to it. I will check, recheck power at the ignition switch. I guess I'll try and find some more grounds to check. Thanks. Hmmm...If you have power at 11 and 12,the switch and link work.If the fuse is good, you should have power on the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 21, 2009 Author Share Posted March 21, 2009 Hmmm...If you have power at 11 and 12,the switch and link work.If the fuse is good, you should have power on the coil. I know. It is just totally crazy. Do you think it could be a ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 (edited) I know. It is just totally crazy. Do you think it could be a ground? Not as far as power to the coil is concerned.I would sort this issue first. If you have power on both sides of the fuses,there must be a break in the wiring between fuse 11 and the coil.Could use the ohmmeter to confirm lack of continuity between here and the coil.Problem likely lies at either the 3? or 7? pin wire connectors in between.ECU power loss is likely at the same location. One of the black/white wires carries power to the coil from the fusebox. Edited March 22, 2009 by naru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 21, 2009 Share Posted March 21, 2009 Does the power to the coil come from the ignition relay? I can't remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 Not as far as power to the coil is concerned.I would sort this issue first. If you have power on both sides of the fuses,there must be a break in the wiring between fuse 11 and the coil.Could use the ohmmeter to confirm lack of continuity between here and the coil.Problem likely lies at either the 3? or 7? pin wire connectors in between.ECU power loss is likely at the same location. One of the black/white wires carries power to the coil from the fusebox. I'll start checking that in the morning, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Okay, new idea. So I have been looking over this again and again. Power for the Ignition relay, and one of the ECU pins comes straight from fuse 12. Now, the wire splits, and the side that goes to the Ignition relay has a diode in it to prevent voltage *backflow* to the ECU. It is possible this diode is not conducting anymore. It is taped to the wiring harness, up under the dash, in the same area as the ignition, fuel, and headlamp relays. If you have Section 6 of an SPFI FSM, it shows as connector F109 on the connector location chart. I'd pull that sucker and see if you get voltage through it. Test it's *oneway* function using the diode check on you're multimeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 Okay, new idea. So I have been looking over this again and again. Power for the Ignition relay, and one of the ECU pins comes straight from fuse 12. Now, the wire splits, and the side that goes to the Ignition relay has a diode in it to prevent voltage *backflow* to the ECU. It is possible this diode is not conducting anymore. It is taped to the wiring harness, up under the dash, in the same area as the ignition, fuel, and headlamp relays. If you have Section 6 of an SPFI FSM, it shows as connector F109 on the connector location chart. I'd pull that sucker and see if you get voltage through it. Test it's *oneway* function using the diode check on you're multimeter. I'll do it. I noticed that when the key is in the on position I can push in the button on the auto shifter and it clicks at the ignition cylinder where the key goes in. Is this normal? And the shifter will not move unless I push in the shift over-ride button. Could this be a neutral safety switch problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I'll do it. I noticed that when the key is in the on position I can push in the button on the auto shifter and it clicks at the ignition cylinder where the key goes in. Is this normal? And the shifter will not move unless I push in the shift over-ride button. Could this be a neutral safety switch problem? That is the lockout to prevent shifting into gear without a foot on the brake. And also to not let the key come out until the the shifter is in park. HOWEVER.........I didn't think Loyales had that feature. Are you sure we aren't talking about a LEGACY here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 That is the lockout to prevent shifting into gear without a foot on the brake. And also to not let the key come out until the the shifter is in park. HOWEVER.........I didn't think Loyales had that feature. Are you sure we aren't talking about a LEGACY here? It is a 1993 Subaru Loyale 1.8, automatic, with a/c, power windows and locks, tilt wheel, rear window defogger and clock. Pretty nice car with 28,000 on the odometer. That is why I purchased the car because of its condition and miles. Not one spec of rust anywhere underneath or on top. Interior is perfect as well. It was as close to a (new) used car as I could find for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 That is the lockout to prevent shifting into gear without a foot on the brake. And also to not let the key come out until the the shifter is in park. HOWEVER.........I didn't think Loyales had that feature. Are you sure we aren't talking about a LEGACY here? The loyale i just gave away had that feature as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am back home now and have access to my service data. Here is what it shows. Fuse 11 provides power to the coil and fuel pump relay (I think that was mentioned already). So with the ignition OFF you should have good continuity between fuse 11 and the plus side of the coil but that isn't happening apparently . It has already been dertermined that fuse 11 has power on it and is a good fuse. The b/w power wire from fuse 11 goes through a couple of connections before it gets to those locations. One connector is called F66 according to my '88 manual. The other connector is F98. If these connectors are the same for your model year then they are located up in the far corner of the dash on the firewall, near the driver's door jamb. There are 4 connectors in a line. The second on the left is F66 and the fourth is F98. By just pulling the connectors apart and reconnecting them you might solve this trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drew440 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 I am back home now and have access to my service data. Here is what it shows. Fuse 11 provides power to the coil and fuel pump relay (I think that was mentioned already). So with the ignition OFF you should have good continuity between fuse 11 and the plus side of the coil but that isn't happening apparently . It has already been dertermined that fuse 11 has power on it and is a good fuse. The b/w power wire from fuse 11 goes through a couple of connections before it gets to those locations. One connector is called F66 according to my '88 manual. The other connector is F98. If these connectors are the same for your model year then they are located up in the far corner of the dash on the firewall, near the driver's door jamb. There are 4 connectors in a line. The second on the left is F66 and the fourth is F98. By just pulling the connectors apart and reconnecting them you might solve this trouble. I'll try it! Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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