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Anyone ever make a tool
Posted 27 March 2009 - 01:23 PM
Posted 27 March 2009 - 02:26 PM
And I'm using a breaker bar as a dent remover, in addition to a BFH
But I have made a pair of channel locks into a hose remover.
Just wrapped electrical tape around the teeth to keep them from
puncturing the hose.
Posted 27 March 2009 - 03:32 PM
Large snap ring pliers worked but the pipe was faster. And it seemed easier to keep track of the number of turns for the right bearing preload.
Not really a real tool, but still useful. I assembled a kit of large washers, some different small sections of pipe, and a good axle nut for pulling front axles through the knuckes. I just stack and restack as needed. A ziptie keeps it all together between axle changes.
Posted 27 March 2009 - 07:45 PM
Posted 28 March 2009 - 12:38 AM
Posted 28 March 2009 - 09:35 AM
i used a 10mm bolt with a pair of visegrips when i didnt have a 10 allen. also i couldnt get the bolt of the crank of my xt so i placed a breaker bar and socket on the bolt and rest it on the inner fender and bumped the motor. so i guess the motor was a impact gun for .199 seconds of its life:banana:
The motor bump trick is pretty old and is mentioned quite frequently here.
Just need to make sure you have it on the correct side.
Posted 28 March 2009 - 12:21 PM
Posted 28 March 2009 - 06:20 PM
We also made a pipe bender for 40 to 48mm pipe utilizing our 12tonne press.
So many more, but its just a spare of the moment thing normally. The biggest tools we have is the one my mum gave birth too.
Posted 28 March 2009 - 09:15 PM
Posted 29 March 2009 - 10:18 PM
i have a bracket that i mount to a flange on the rear differential and a large piece of beam i have, to loosen those sometimes pesky stub axle bolts.you know, the e10 ones.
ummm,,the ever infamous "persuader"............
)of which someone has not given back yet(
and,hmmm, lets see......
a valve spring compressor , out of a c-clamp and a piece of metal that came on the valve spring compressor that i had but didna work.as it was inadequate for the spacing of access to the valves.in other words, it was hittin the damn sidewall and would not allow me to get a long enough throw to compress the spring as needed.
several jigs for this or that....
multiple axle pin removers..allen wrenches,random old screwdrivers,and the occasional bolt, screw or nail....whenever they go to the abyss, i make another one......until now:)
made a huge allen wrench to get out the plug on the front of an ea81 block to install the block heater.
i have some custom 4eat automatic input shaft clips.
then theres the modification of a multitude of tools that i have utilized,but who hasn't?cheers, brian
Posted 30 March 2009 - 02:29 AM
oh, and i countersunk a drywall screw in the end of a 2' piece of closet pole to use for pulling rear crank seals from ej blocks. drill a little hole in the seal, hand thread the screw in and it pries them right out without a scratch everytime.
i've also got my "custom benchmount soldering iron" - the heating element from an old laboratory hotplate just sitting on a ceramic floor tile. i've only electrocuted myself with it once, won't let that happen again.....
Posted 30 March 2009 - 10:37 AM
Only bashed myself in the face once with it while prying something.
made a block wrist pin cover tool using a 9/16 coupler. so techinically I didn't make it, except for a little grinding here and there.
made a axle pin remover using a long metal rod. Not sure of the o.d., but b/c of it's length, I can pop out the pins through the engine bay.
Posted 31 March 2009 - 09:13 PM
Posted 01 April 2009 - 04:43 PM
I made my own axle puller. I'll see if I can find pics. Tim
I made one as well for an EA82. I used a steel rod with a steel cylinder that slid on the rod, with a flat piece on the end to keep the cylinder on the rod. I then welded two axle nuts on the end and those thread on the axle and then you just slide the weight and pull the new axle through the hub!
Posted 05 May 2009 - 01:39 PM
Posted 05 May 2009 - 08:18 PM
Posted 05 May 2009 - 10:25 PM
That is the axle puller tool. Works like a charm! made this one with about 9 inches of 3/4" threaded rod, an axle nut, about 8" of 2" exhaust pipe, and a pair of 3/4" flat washers and nuts, then welded a handle on it so it wouldnt turn while I was turning the nut. Shazam! Thats all just crap I had layin around, I did have to do a little lathe turning, but nothing I couldnt have just as well done with a grinder (had to round the points on the axle nut to go into the pipe)
Posted 06 May 2009 - 12:36 PM
Posted 06 May 2009 - 02:06 PM
When I was doing my trans the other week, I ordered a 36mm socket for the big nut on the back of the main shaft. When it arrived, it turned out to be 3/4 drive instead of 1/2 drive. I don't know if it was their fault or mine, but either way I didn't want to wait for a replacement or buy another one so I made this adapter. It's a 3/4 square on one side and a 7/8 hex on the other. Made it out of some O1, hardened it and added it to the box!
Posted 10 July 2009 - 09:25 AM
I just replaced all of the brake lines on an older Volvo. I don't know if anyone is familiar with the 200 series, but the bleeding procedure is a PIA. The front calipers have 3 nipples each!! Anyway, I've thought about getting one of those Motive Powerbleeders or something similar, but looking at the pictures I figured it wouldn't be too hard to make. So it was off to Home Despot and:
compression sprayer - $8.97
cap from fluid reservoir in question - $?? (I got one from the JY along with a bunch of other stuff, but com'on, a stupid plastic cap?)
barbed hose fitting - $1.xx (The hose on the sprayer is 1/4 so that's what I got with a 1/8 NPT thread)
hose clamp - <$1.00
Silicone - $5.00 or so
Drill and tap the appropriate NPT thread into the cap with a little silicone gooped around the fitting and a hose clamp for good measure since there isn't enough meat in the cap to create a seal. One could easily drill an oversize hole, skip the tapping, and just glue it in, we're not talking but a few PSI of positive pressure to make this work.
Total cost is under $20
Edited by lostinthe202, 10 July 2009 - 09:28 AM.
add some detail
Posted 25 January 2010 - 06:40 PM
Posted 26 January 2010 - 01:46 PM
Flatened and polished the head, (combustion chamber side). Fill the center divot with JB Weld, and flattened that.
Spray adhesive to attach very fine wet/dry sandpaper.
Drop it in the recess and rotate, under water for lubricant, to polish and clean up that flat section. Rotate back and forth by hand i mean.
Posted 27 January 2010 - 06:26 PM
Modified a screwdriver to work on those stupid security screws with two holes, propane kit in my truck had 'em to prevent tampering...
countless wrenches and sockets ground or filed down to fit in tight places...
Posted 06 February 2011 - 05:35 AM
This tool holder took those commonly available blades that have a special taper so they can cut a grove around the cylinder bore as to insert 41 thou stainless safety wire for big boost drag engines.
My adapter allowed fitting to a micrometer boring head so that any size cylinders could be "O" ringed on the CNC mill,because of the circular cut the blade has to be tapered to clear the walls of the groove and is quite a specialised cutting blade.
Since then they now make the tools in smaller sizes,hand operated for ease of use for those without a machine shop.
Mine however was made over 20 years ago when there was nothing available.
Have also built many jigs such a rotiseries for preparation of Rally and race car shells,jigs for modifying struts and retubing struts etc to allow fitting of things such as Bilstein inserts to models not catered for by Bilstein.
Have also made special radius cutters for modifying valve radius in the chambers to unshroud valves in some cylinder heads etc.
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