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3" Plastic Body Lift Blocks for a Pickup on a Subaru??


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6 replies to this topic

#1 subystomper

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 09:01 PM

Has anyone ever used 3" body lift blocks for a pickup to lift their Subaru?? Has any one had any problems with them if they did? I have enough to do it and have been thinking about it. I originally got them for my truck but I want to try them on Subystomper. The only other thing I would need to do is make a plate to lower the rear end, extend my steering shaft, lengthen the bolt on the top side of the trans to the fire wall, extend the top rear shock mounts, and I already have the strut tower extensions from my old car the the guy I sold it to removed when he lifted it even more than I did. Please let me know if I missed anything and also let me know your thoughts on this. If I end up doing it I'll post how it all works out. I just think it is a cheep way to do it for less than $100 since I lost my job now. I can get the blocks for free from my neighbor and I think I need about 14 to 16 of them to do it. 4 to 6 blocks for the engine, 6 for the transmission, and 4 for the rear end. Thanks, John

#2 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 09:10 PM

what about all the bolts??

There are 2 ways to bolt everything back together. If you have pass through blocks, you bolt the block onto the body with the stock bolt and use another bolt to attach the subframe to the bottom of the block.

Or you just use longer bolts to go from the subframe to the body THROUGH the block. Either way... dont skimp on bolt quality.

#3 subystomper

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 09:25 PM

They are just a block with one hole all the way through the center so I will be using longer bolts. I can get all the bolts for free too. My Dad works for a guy that lets him have what ever he wants for stuff like that. No stolen stuff either. Thanks, John

#4 VaporTrail

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 10:54 PM

on trucks, the body lift is just that. lifting the body off the frame. period. no stresses between those points.

on a suby, you are putting blocks between the suspension mounts and the body, and those bolts take the most stress of anything... that kind of stress will compress the plastic and lead to broken bolts, really easily...

it's really not that much more to use some 2x3 rect tubing .25 wall, and drill holes through...

either route, you are gonna need offset bolt blocks for the tops of the front struts, and a lengthened intermediate steering shaft.

#5 frogstar7055

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 10:58 PM

2nd that,plastic blocks would wear out and cause slop,break bolts.

#6 Numbchux

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Posted 29 March 2009 - 12:39 AM

3rded. I've not done it, but my mechanical instinct says very bad idea!! heck, individual blocks, even steel ones, are a pretty bad idea (I had all 3 captive nuts on both sides where the radius rod mounts rip out of the frame rails. PITA!!).


if this was just for looks and this vehicle would only see gentleish street use, it'd probably be fine. but for the strains of wheeling.....Those captive nuts are the weak link, anything you can do to reinforce them is a good idea.

#7 SoobieDoo

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Posted 29 March 2009 - 08:05 AM

Have you seen this thread?:
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=94629
That's a good lift, on the cheap!




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