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i'm trying to replace the front axles on my wife's 97 OBS and the pass side axle is stuck in the hub. the driver side was rusted and difficult, but the pass is not going anywhere.

 

so far i've tried deep creep, liquid wrench, a propane torch, a 3 jaw puller, a 3lb dead blow mallet, and a 5lb iron sledge but i'm not making any progress - in fact the end of the axle is mushrooming...

 

ideas?

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Try bolting everything back up to creat a solid platform. Of course leave the tranny side of the axle out and then pound away at the bugger. I would reccomend wrapping the lug nuts in something like duct tape to prevent the accidental hit to them that could cause dammage. If that does not work, what I have done in some cases is put the axle back into the tranny, then un bolted eveything in order to remove the hub (bungy cord the calipers up and out of the way). Once the hub is able to just hang from the front cv joint I have hit the hub in the flattest part that is not the bearing area and "popped" the axle apart from the inside of the boot (basiaclly the joint comes off the internal snap ring) then I cut away the boot to be able to get the hub free and over to a vise or press. I then proceed to hammer on the axle using the vise as a platform to lay the hub flat, the same goes for a press but instead I press the axle out...but not everybody has access to a press. Once the cv part of the axle is out then I take out the DOJ part of the axle from the tranny, and put everything pack together, and of course I apply a light layer of grease to the splines and hub as well before going back in. Hope this helps

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thanks for the replies, folks.

 

i have the trans out, and the knuckle on the car. i disassembled the doj so i could get the trans back in and still wail on the axle if necessary. makes it a bit easier to hammer too. i have access to a 12 ton press, so i'll just have to remove the whole mess and see what happens. i've been trying to avoid doing that cuz i've read that those knuckles can be warped easily (i think i read that about changing wheel bearings).

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i've been trying to avoid doing that cuz i've read that those knuckles can be warped easily (i think i read that about changing wheel bearings).

 

Brace it on the press bridges using the the strut mount and ball joint mount sections.

 

Don't try to brace it against the brake mount area.

 

You'll need to add a 3/4 inch bar under the balljoint area to level it with the strut mount

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spent 2 hours with an oxy-acetylene torch, p'blaster and a 12 ton press and its still stuck.

 

i could see the knuckle literally bending under the pressure but the axle would not come loose!:eek:

 

my dad insisted on trying some more tomorrow, he's going to try cutting the back of the cv off then drilling the splined shaft to see if it will loosen up.

 

guess i'm getting another knuckle...

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Good luck with it, I never seen anything like that either. I was about to suggest axle tool but I dont think it can beat the 12 ton press:eek:

 

 

 

spent 2 hours with an oxy-acetylene torch, p'blaster and a 12 ton press and its still stuck.

 

i could see the knuckle literally bending under the pressure but the axle would not come loose!:eek:

 

my dad insisted on trying some more tomorrow, he's going to try cutting the back of the cv off then drilling the splined shaft to see if it will loosen up.

 

guess i'm getting another knuckle...

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anyone know if will my brakes work safely if i unplug the abs computer and throw the non-abs 93 knuckes on there?

 

the 93 knuckles have brand new bearings and ball joints begging to be used.

 

Yes they will work fine. Unplug the abs and take the bulb out on the dash.

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If you have an air compressor you could try a pneumatic hammer (size of an air drill and relatively cheap) I've succeeded removing very stuch things with that.

It gives very rapid and sharp blows that can free almost anything.

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