bushbasher Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 After my two finals Ive got 2-3 hrs a day at the shop every day until summer as I am on good terms with my metalwork and mechanics teacher and don't need to actually be in his class. So, the 6" body lift begins in a few weeks. I'll probably just be running some snow tires on drilled 15s from the tire pile (I have 3 of 4 wheels so far ) for the first little while. Then some custom rear coilovers will be in the making. I have an idea for the front but realistically probably won't get to it. It involves a custom lower mount that solidly mounts a rancho or similiar shock to the hub like a strut while creating a spring perch at the same time. Then the top of the rancho shaft will be modified to hold a strut top. The 6" lift will give me room to fit the rancho. This'll hopeully give me closer to ~9-10" of travel vs the stock ~6" in the front. In the rear I will probably be getting 8-9" at the shock vs the ~6. I know I can only go 2" further down in the front, and 3" in the back so ill be getting more uptravel than downtravel in the front at least. I have gotten mixed opinions on uptravel but I say any travel is better, plus when I go airborn, on landing I have 9" of travel to soak it up. I'll just have to make the springs just the right stiffness so that it is hard to get to the top of the 9". Better make a skidplate too Comments? I guess this isnt what I should be thinking about at exam time, but oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 My approach, and it has worked perfectly. No impact on turning radius and the shock is fully effective with no play. http://www.subarubrat.com/frntshk.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted January 20, 2004 Author Share Posted January 20, 2004 yes but the difference is yours doesnt give you longer travel it just gives you additional shock absorbtion. The stock strut can only move up and down 6" due to the length of the internal shock which also happens to take the side loads of the suspension. my strut replaces the stock strut, giving me the suspension travel of a rancho shock. If I could host pictures somewhere I could show a diagram as it is tough to explain what I have in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarubrat Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 The stock strut has been gutted and replaced with a cartridge (KYB) offering far better travel than the stock "cartridge". The Rancho mount I described here is one part of the total solution, I just thought you might be interested in the lower mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted January 20, 2004 Author Share Posted January 20, 2004 OK I am interested now... I read your shock page before and there was no mention of that. How much more travel does it give... what model car is the strut for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooinater Posted January 20, 2004 Share Posted January 20, 2004 heck if you are going to a 6 in mgiht as well go tcased.... just my opinion. i don't know what i did with out the 60+:1 low range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted January 21, 2004 Author Share Posted January 21, 2004 I could do that but thats whole nother heap of problems and money and time. Then Im worried about stub axles. You are running newer 4.11 diffs, what is the rear diff stub design? what do you do for front and rear cv axles? I do feel the lack of crawling ratios right now, as I have been around trucks for awhile, but figure I will always kick rump roast in mud and general baja'in, though crawling is my real love. What would a t-case, driveshafts and diffs cost me from the yard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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