etc Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 I took out the radiator and fans and the alternator and WP belt. What's next? Should I remove the timing belt covers right now or is there something else to remove before I do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Well, you have to get the crank pulley off first. Do that, then you can get all of the timing covers off (left, right, center). The left and right ones will come off now, if you want to pull them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 Looks like your power steering is leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 8, 2009 Author Share Posted May 8, 2009 How do I get the crank pulley off and where is it? Yes, the power steering is leaking, should I replace it while I am at it? Is it cost-effective, is it difficult, how much do these pumps cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 The crank pulley is that large lower pulley in the middle. You can get a pulley holder, or if your car is a 5MT leave the car in 5th gear and get a large wrench to remove the center bolt. The power steering has a seal rebuild kit available at your dealer. It might just simply be the one gasket between the reservoir and the pump itself. At this point I am questioning if the oil leak is just the power steering dripping onto the exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 lots going on here. the power steering fluid might be your leak, not the crank shaft seal. if that's the case though you would still want to pull at least one timing belt cover to make sure the timing belt isn't wet with power steering fluid. if it is, you need to replace it as the fluid will degrade the belt. if you still need to replace the crank seal, or timing belt - the crank pulley is really tough to remove. it's probably going to take a breaker bar or a socket wrench with a pipe over the handle, that bolt is really tight and needs to be that way when you reinstall it as well. if it's an automatic, pull the bellhousing cover on the transmission, under the air intake/throttle body. rotate the engine until you see one of the openings in the flexplate. jam a 1/2" socket extension in there to hold it put as you loosen the 22mm crank pulley. for a manual trans put it in 5th gear and have someone hold the brake pedal while you try and get the bolt loose. you have an interference engine, so make absolutely certain the timing belt gets replaced if it's wet and the timing belt is reinstalled correctly if removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 great pictures, take some of the under side and post them. it may help diagnose the problem. take a lot. is oil dripping off the front bottom of the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 9, 2009 Author Share Posted May 9, 2009 > You can get a pulley holder, Where do I get this part? I had some repair shop look at it and was told that camshaft seals are bad and the valve cover gaskets are leaking. I question that, as they didn't mention the massive power steering leak. That is leaking for sure but I am not sure if it's getting to the exhaust or if it's something else. I will shoot pics from the bottom. There is a lot of oil there but where it's coming from, I am not sure. I do know that when the vehicle is sitting, I get next to no leaks. When it's driving apparetly there is a massive leak. So that to me suggests either power steering or camshaft? I need expert advise. I will post more detailed pics shortly. Now I need a plan to deal with the leaky power steering pump. Do I just get a rebuild kit or do I replace the whole thing? I don't fully understand. I want to take care of all the issues while I got the thing apart. The 98 2.2L has 149,000 miles on it so I want to replace the timing belts anyway. Might as well do the WP. The radiator went bad so that is getting replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 10, 2009 Author Share Posted May 10, 2009 How do I hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt? I have a breaker bar and a 22mm socket but it's moving and I cannot get the bolt off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Please update your location. Some of us probably have this tool. There was a post here within the last year on how to use hex keys rubber bands, duct tape, and JB weld of some such combination rather than the proper tool. I just had a tool made. Others may have the factory tool. I'd imagine for a deposit you could borrow one. Myself I require a deposit. Funny how folks can drive 100 miles in a few hours to obtain the tool. Then it takes weeks to return it. Those of us that have tools USE THEM - that's why we have them. Speaking for myself I don't have any issues loaning them - just don't screw up what I am needing to do. A deposit gives incentive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 I am in MD. Link for the tool? I cannot proceed further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 How do I hold the crank pulley when removing the bolt? I have a breaker bar and a 22mm socket but it's moving and I cannot get the bolt off. just on the passenger side below the throttle body is a black plastic piece. It helps to take the air box off to see it. Take taht plastic piece off and you will see the drive plate. They say to stick a pry bar down into there to hold the crank while you break the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 17, 2009 Author Share Posted May 17, 2009 I will do that... Just need to find it first. I am ready to unbolt it otherwise: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 Protect that rad with a large piece or cardboard, plastic, paneling, something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 I just did this job yesterday. It is pretty straight forward. Definitely protect the radiator or get rid of the extension. I used a standard socket and breaker and didnt need an extension. I ended up installing the seal into the oil pump first (against Dave's advice) but it was pretty uneventful. I greased up the inside and the journal pretty well though and i did a couple of test runs without issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 18, 2009 Author Share Posted May 18, 2009 Cannot find the drive plate even after taking the air box. Where is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 See the TPS? It's on the throttle body on the passenger side. There is a black plastic piece on it with a blue label (the TPS). Lood DIRECTLY BELOW it. Right where the engine meets the tranny on the engine side. There is a bit of wireing harness covering the black plastic plate about 2 inches around (It's not exactly square or round). It's right by the tab to hook a chain to when removing the engine. It'll have a little tab on top that you can use to pry on. I've never successfully gotten one back in - and I don't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 It’s under that wireloom. It’s hard to find, you really have to look for it. It helps to take off the TPS, and you’ll need a offset 12mm box wrench to get to it. It needs to have a pretty big offset, probably close to 1 inch. Make sure to mark your TPS position in relation to the screws before removing it. Otherwise if you try to get a socket in there you’ll have to take off the IACSV too (at least I did). it's a PITA to get on or off, all those wirelooms are in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 I unplug the TPS to get at TC bolts but never undo the TPS - sounds like a pain to reset if needed. He's just looking for the bunghole. But it is under that wire loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortskoolbus Posted May 18, 2009 Share Posted May 18, 2009 i made the mistake of taking mine off without marking it.. so i just had to idle the car and move it back and forth until the idle sounded right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 if it's an automatic, pull the bellhousing cover on the transmission, under the air intake/throttle body. rotate the engine until you see one of the openings in the flexplate. jam a 1/2" socket extension in there to hold it put as you loosen the 22mm crank pulley. OK, I found the plate but when I turn the crankshaft bolt with the breaker bar, nothing is rotating inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 That pic looks like the Torque Converter bolt is missing(but it is hard to tell since the bolt top is shallow and flat with rounded edges). But you should still see the flexplate move. Did you remove the TC bolts and not reinstall them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 No, I certainly did not remove anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 rotate the torqueconverter by hand (maybe from below) until you see a flex/tc bolt, or at least a bolt hole. the flex plate may have busted. mark the tc/flexplate with some thing to make sure it;s not moving when you turn the crank bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etc Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 How do I access it from below? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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