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Oil Pump Questions...


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11 replies to this topic

#1 2Hawks

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Posted 20 January 2004 - 04:15 PM

Oil Pump Questions.
Greetings.

Seems this was as good a place as any to ask...

I posted some time ago about a knock after a cetrain RPM, with a reducing oil pressure as engine temperature increased. It was suggested that the Oil Pump might be going out, or need a refresh kit.

The questions I have are:
where is this oil pump? Can I get to it without removing or seriously dismantling the engine? Does anyone have a picture of the location?

From what I read in this thread it's near the belts?

I obviously haven't bought the book on the car yet. I want to know if the vehicle will be worth keeping first. Also, If I felt it was required, how much could I get an engine for in Southern Oregon?

I have an 1984 Subaru GL

Any assistance in this dept would be greatly appreciated.

#2 subiemech85

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Posted 20 January 2004 - 05:24 PM

you need to first 1. find the oil filter and change the oil and filter
2. that is where the pump is
3. SEARCH

#3 2Hawks

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 05:32 AM

Are you suggesting that changing the oil will alleviate the problem?

by Search do you mean to search these forums (BTDT) or Search the web? (BTDT(2)).

So far I have found new pumps at $49 and $52. at www.subaru-auto-parts.com. Gaskets and seals being below $3.

Any suggestions ?

(BTDT == Been There Done That.)

#4 bratman2

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 06:43 AM

The oil filter is fastened to your oil pump on the lower front of your engine. It is driven by the crankshaft so it can be removed by itself. I would replace the pump as you have a ball and spring style bypass that might have failed causing it to recirculate most of your oil flow to back to the oil pan. When the bypass failed on mine the oil pressure dropped by half but I had no knocks and drove it a week waiting on the new pump. What is your oil pressure? Of course it could also be lower engine bearings going out also. Glenn Taylor.

#5 2Hawks

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 04:25 PM

Greetings.

Than you for the information. I have had an experience with lower engine bearings on a Chevy Big Block before. Symptoms in that case are very similar to what I am experiencing now. oil Pressure is inversely reciprocal of the Engine Temperature. The warmer the engine gets, the lower the pressure until it reaches nil and begins squeaking / squealing. At which time I promptly shut it down.

I have been debating a new engine completly, but I am hoping there is a cheaper alternative. When I remove the Oil Pump, are there any particular signs on the gaskets / seals that will tell me the pump itself is the cause? I expect pulling a bit of oul from the pan would speak volumes ,but the dipstick look s really good. Nice clean oil.

#6 subiemech85

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 10:44 PM

I was assuming you haven't changed to thick oil, 15W40 or 15W50, filter, and drain plug gasket, and haven't been under the car, due to the location being so obvious!
What pressure do you have, when was oil last changed, and to what type?

#7 LostWater

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Posted 22 January 2004 - 04:09 PM

If you live in an area that has COLD weather, the your thick oil is very likely gonna to cause you to bend valves and crap like that.

Both my twin and my dud dooked engines with 20w50 oil in the relatively mild winters of South Hampton Roads (maritime climate, north end of mid southern thermocline)

#8 torxxx

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Posted 22 January 2004 - 04:47 PM

Originally posted by LostWater
If you live in an area that has COLD weather, the your thick oil is very likely gonna to cause you to bend valves and crap like that.

Both my twin and my dud dooked engines with 20w50 oil in the relatively mild winters of South Hampton Roads (maritime climate, north end of mid southern thermocline)



I ran 15w-40 all winter last year up here in Alaska.. worked just fine....

2hawks -

There are specs in a FSM or a Haynes/chiltons manual that says how much play the impeller (I think) is supposed to have with in its mechaincal limit. If its got too much play, replace it.

I've never changed an oil pump but from what I've been told, its under 2 hour project.

#9 MilesFox

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Posted 22 January 2004 - 11:28 PM

http://www.warpthree...ice/service.htm

check this out. might as well do your timing belts and water pump

wrote it myself! with pics

#10 bratman2

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Posted 23 January 2004 - 07:23 AM

Miles, A 84 GL should be an ea-81 without timing belts. I think he probably has engine issues that show up when the oil warms up, worn bearings possibly. Thicker oil may help but will not fix the problem. Glenn Taylor

#11 MilesFox

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Posted 23 January 2004 - 10:47 AM

oops, i over looked that. but the pics should hepl as far as the indtallation goes

#12 MorganM

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Posted 23 January 2004 - 10:48 AM

Originally posted by bratman2
Miles, A 84 GL should be an ea-81 without timing belts. I think he probably has engine issues that show up when the oil warms up, worn bearings possibly. Thicker oil may help but will not fix the problem. Glenn Taylor



An 84 GL could also be an EA82 carb model. I think we need to know if its an EA81 or EA82 engine before we start handing out oil pump replacment information becuase they are pretty different.

2Hawks: There is a stamp on your block right by the power steering pump (if so equped) that will say EA81 or EA82. This will determine where and how you will be working on the oil pump. To answer your question on 'will i have to dissassemble the front half of my engine to do this?' the answer is Yes, have fun :) Nothing you couldnt do in a weekend but this is an involved repair.




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