Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Driveshaft U Joint 88 GL-10 4WD wagon


  • Please log in to reply
23 replies to this topic

#1 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 27 April 2009 - 09:58 PM

My driveshaft U Joint has almost failed. I replaced it in January with a used driveshaft from a member here, but it only lasted about 700-800 miles. That's the chances you take with used equipment. Now the car is making the same throbbing vibrations as before and the U Joint is visibly loose.

The car is in the shop and they can't get the part. They say I can get the U-Joint itself rebuilt at a shop for $280 or I can get a new one from Subaru for over $500. The shop talked about replacing all three U-Joints at once or rebalancing the whole drive shaft for mucho bucks, but I only want the first one replaced.

Getting to a pick your part boneyard would be very difficult on my bicycle.

Please advise.

I'm trying to leave California and tow a trailer to the east coast, and would like to have the car reliable. (Like, yeah) At this point, it is the only thing preventing me from leaving a couple of days after the car is road-worthy.

Edited by M45, 30 April 2009 - 10:51 AM.
Changed thread title; it is no longer urgent.


#2 Dodge Aries K

Dodge Aries K

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 59 posts
  • Machensey Park

Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:00 PM

I drove my car around in FWD mode without the rear driveshaft bolted in for a bit before getting all the u-joints replaced and it was fine. Just make sure to keep the front shaft in so you don't leak transmission fluid.

#3 john in KY

john in KY

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,200 posts
  • KY

Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:33 PM

Do you have the 4EAT transmission? Thinking that makes a difference.

#4 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:37 PM

Do you have the 4EAT transmission? Thinking that makes a difference.


Yes, I think so. I have a 1.8 turbo engine with Automatic transmission.

On edit: here's the engine code:

Posted Image

Edited by M45, 27 April 2009 - 10:53 PM.


#5 NorthWet

NorthWet

    Eeyore Incarnate

  • Members
  • 5,039 posts
  • Bremerton, WA

Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:50 PM

Which u-joint is bad? The front one near the tranny, or one on the rear section of the shaft?

If one of the rear u-joints, do you have the driveshaft style that the rear section completely unbolts from the front/carrier section? If yes to both, you should be able to remove the rear portion of the shaft (leaving the front portion still in the tranny to seal the rear output) and drive it this way. If it is the Full-Time 4-speed auto (aka 4EAT), you should insert the fuse into the FWD fuse holder in the engine compartment.

#6 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:55 PM

Which u-joint is bad? The front one near the tranny, or one on the rear section of the shaft?


It's the front U Joint of the three U Joints on the drive shaft. The care is 4WD (always four wheel drive).

This is what I want to avoid (the catastrophe in December):

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Edited by M45, 27 April 2009 - 11:00 PM.
pics


#7 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,106 posts
  • WA

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:12 PM

That bottom pic gives me flashbacks :rolleyes: (SVX)

You need to find a Driveshaft Shop.
A place that specifically works on them only, doing shortening/lengthening/balancing etc.
These u-joints are staked and need to be pressed out and then replaced with serviceable u-joints. While they have your shaft (watch it) have them take a look to see if its out of balance. This might be why you are having problems.

http://www.superpage...L0122740956.htm
http://maps.google.c...li=lmd&z=14&t=m
http://maps.google.c...li=lmd&z=14&t=m

Edited by Turbone, 27 April 2009 - 11:26 PM.


#8 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 19,682 posts
  • WV

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:20 PM

Rockford sells the ujoints to replace it with, I believe a long time ago I even posted the paperwork that comes with the Staked-in replacement joints and the part number. But you can look it up online too.

You have to cut the ujoints, then bash the caps out of the yokes. Then install the new joint and caps. It would require some grinding most likely as well, then some care in setting the yokes straight and seating the new joints properly.

A driveshaft shop is your best bet. If you hand them the ujoint (rockford) and already cut the old ujoint out, it won't cost much, they'll have it done in under an hour - $30-$75 labor depending on local rates and operations.

I have some used shafts I could sell you!!??!!

+1 on driving it in FWD mode if you have to, it'll be fine.

#9 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:20 PM

You need to find a Driveshaft Shop.
A place that specifically works on them only, doing shortening/lengthening/balancing etc.
These u-joints are staked and need to be pressed out and then replaced with serviceable u-joints. While they have your shaft (watch it) have them take a look to see if its out of balance. This might be why you are having problems.


Take in the whole drive shaft? All four sections and three U Joints for balancing?

#10 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,106 posts
  • WA

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:28 PM

Take in the whole drive shaft? All four sections and three U Joints for balancing?


Mainly the part that needs the u-joint replaced.
If your pressed for time, take it all in.
If your tight on money, tell them to only do the front one.

I added 3 locations that might be local to you.

Also, in order to run it in fwd, the shaft from the tranny needs to be removed (it has the bad u-joint).
How would he plug the tranny to keep all the fluid from draining?

Edited by Turbone, 27 April 2009 - 11:31 PM.


#11 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:35 PM

Thanks. The car is in Mountain View. I'll look into what I can get done.

#12 grossgary

grossgary

    Elite Master of the Subaru

  • Members
  • 19,682 posts
  • WV

Posted 27 April 2009 - 11:38 PM

if the shaft is already shot, he can cut the front cup off and slide it into the trans and get creative to hold it in place.

4 sections? there's only two sections of driveshaft. the front half out of the trans and the rear half going to the rear diff? anyway, just take in whatever parts you want repaired. either the front bad one, or all three. the shafts are all balanced independently so there's no requirement to do them all. that's why you were able to replace it a few months ago without balance issues...well until that ujoint went out again...grrrr!!

#13 ivantruckman

ivantruckman

    4 inch lift

  • Members
  • 874 posts
  • caro, MI.

Posted 28 April 2009 - 06:58 AM

It's the front U Joint of the three U Joints on the drive shaft. The care is 4WD (always four wheel drive).

This is what I want to avoid (the catastrophe in December):

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image


GOOD GOD , what happend, Hole shot @ 7k ?

#14 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 28 April 2009 - 11:02 AM

Driveshaft U Joint snapped at 65 mph on the highway, cracking open the rear transmission case.

#15 mountaingoatgruff

mountaingoatgruff

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 622 posts
  • Turlock, Ca

Posted 28 April 2009 - 03:49 PM

How would he plug the tranny to keep all the fluid from draining?


rattlecan cap and duct tape.

#16 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,106 posts
  • WA

Posted 28 April 2009 - 05:10 PM

rattlecan cap and duct tape.


I dont think that would last all the way to the East Coast.

#17 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 8,919 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:35 PM

Also, in order to run it in fwd, the shaft from the tranny needs to be removed (it has the bad u-joint).
How would he plug the tranny to keep all the fluid from draining?


No, he could run in FWD with only the front section of the driveshaft and the carrier bearing in place. The shaft would have zero stress on it, so the weak joint wouldn't have any reason to break.

I have driven like this for many many miles, and there is no reason it wouldn't make it to the east coast.

#18 4x4_Welder

4x4_Welder

    Just a guy

  • Members
  • 1,131 posts
  • Rexburg, ID

Posted 28 April 2009 - 10:23 PM

You can get the joint from Schucks or Auto Zone (AZ one seems to be higher quality) cut the old one out, file the stake spots, press the new one in, then lightly tack the new joint in place. I did it on mine. I did screw up on the first one, and only trusted the retaining clips on the new joint. One flew off, and the cap came off. Luckily it didn't cause any permanent damage, and I was able to just replace the joint.

Part number at autozone.com is 1-0430DL. It's a duralast part, but is made in Japan and looks exactly like the original.

I'd second the pull the whole driveshaft and tape a cap on the output idea. Make sure you put in the FWD fuse.

Edited by 4x4_Welder, 28 April 2009 - 10:26 PM.


#19 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 28 April 2009 - 11:40 PM

Thank you one and all,

I have decided to have the repair shop send it out to a place they use to rebuild the U-Joint. It will cost $280, which is less than the $400-450 other places quoted me. Thanks to the member who offered a used driveshaft.

I think this approach is my best bet for a combination of expediency and cost savings.

The advice here was very helpful for me reaching my decision. Thanks!

#20 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,106 posts
  • WA

Posted 29 April 2009 - 12:31 AM

No, he could run in FWD with only the front section of the driveshaft and the carrier bearing in place. The shaft would have zero stress on it, so the weak joint wouldn't have any reason to break.

I have driven like this for many many miles, and there is no reason it wouldn't make it to the east coast.


Thats something you might undertake.
I would not, nor would I give advice of that nature to someone else making a long trip.+

M45, glad your getting it done right before leaving.
Piece of mind on a 3000mi trip can make a huge difference.

#21 Gloyale

Gloyale

    It's a sickness

  • Members
  • 8,919 posts
  • Corvallis, OR PNW

Posted 29 April 2009 - 12:17 PM

Thats something you might undertake.
I would not, nor would I give advice of that nature to someone else making a long trip.+


I ran my rusty, 86 GL-10 like that for months until I could get a replacement front shaft shipped to me from Oregon. I was living in Wisconsin at the time. The driveshaft was so bad that one of the cups had rusted through and you could see the joint end flopping back and forth in the yolk. Drove 100+ miles per day for almost six months. Routinely on the freeway. One trip was over 500 miles at 70mph+

Trust me, with the rear drive section removed, there is ZERO torque going through it. At that point it is merely a plug. There is no reason for it to fail. If it is strong enough that you could not break it with your bare hands, it won't break from freewheeling behind the trans. I would trust driving like that almost infinitely.

#22 NorthWet

NorthWet

    Eeyore Incarnate

  • Members
  • 5,039 posts
  • Bremerton, WA

Posted 29 April 2009 - 12:46 PM

...
Piece of mind on a 3000mi trip can make a huge difference.

+1.
I tow-dollied an AWD vehicle long distance, and had unbolted the driveshaft from the rear diff. I both wired and taped the driveshaft end to the exhaust. Even though it was well secured, it still felt uneasy the entire way.

#23 M45

M45

    USMB Regular

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 57 posts
  • SF Bay Area

Posted 30 April 2009 - 10:50 AM

The shop fixed the car, two days ahead of schedule. It was as though they got the driveshaft rebuilt instantly instead of taking two days. Nobody was more surprised or pleased than I.

Drove it 15 miles on the freeway home last night. Smooth as silk from 75 mph on down. There had been a rattle at low speeds and that went away too. I assumed the rattle was from wheel parts in the right front, but it might have been the U joint itself rattling, in addition to the throbbing.

#24 Turbone

Turbone

    The Original Rob

  • Moderator
  • 12,106 posts
  • WA

Posted 30 April 2009 - 01:38 PM

I ran my rusty, 86 GL-10 like that for months until I could get a replacement front shaft shipped to me from Oregon. I was living in Wisconsin at the time. The driveshaft was so bad that one of the cups had rusted through and you could see the joint end flopping back and forth in the yolk. Drove 100+ miles per day for almost six months. Routinely on the freeway. One trip was over 500 miles at 70mph+

Trust me, with the rear drive section removed, there is ZERO torque going through it. At that point it is merely a plug. There is no reason for it to fail. If it is strong enough that you could not break it with your bare hands, it won't break from freewheeling behind the trans. I would trust driving like that almost infinitely.


So if you were a shop owner, would you do something like this and allow the car owner to take it out on the road for a extended trip?

M45, glad your safely back on the road again.
Good luck with your trip.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users